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leeave96

Need Some Garage/Shed Advice

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leeave96

Need some recommendations on a new shed. I'm looking at putting up one of these metal buildings - I might have posted this link sometime back to the manufacturer's website, but here it is again:

http://www.carolinacarportsinc.com/configurator/index

What I'd like to do is put up a building with two garage doors. There would be space equal to the width of the garage doors between the garage doors and the opposite sides of them. This would be on the long side of the building and descriptively is like this:

wall-space-door-space-door-space-wall

The idea is to put tractors, junk, pop-up camper, firewood, etc, to the extent possible out of the garage door lanes and that would be to either side of the two garage doors and the space between them.

So I have some questions:

- How tall should the building be? Nothing bigger than a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck would in it.

- How deep (as you drive into it) is desirable? 20ft, 24ft - looking for some reasonable depth such that I can pull in a vehicle and yet not be so crowded that I can't work around it or even move a tractor around the end of it?

- how wide should be garage doors be? I'd like to get a full size truck through them without being so narrow that I'd smash a mirror.

- If you look at the website, they offer vertical or horizontal siding. I'm thinking vertical. Don't know if this is better for looks or strength or both. What you do think?

- I'd like to put this building on a concrete pad. Question is - how thick and what type - rebar or concrete with fiber or both.

This is just in the planning stage - not sure I'll do it, but I want to figure out what experience others have with their garages, and lessons learned from theirs you can share.

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rmaynard

Just a couple of notes from past experience. In VA I don't know what the code is on concrete floor thickness, but here in MD it is 4". I reinforced mine with 6" mesh. What I didn't do was put in floor drains. If I were to do it over again, I would have an active drain system under each car location. My garage is 24' x 24'. 24' is a good depth, but I would like it wider. The ceiling height is 8' 6". I have two 9' wide doors. If I were to do it again, I would have one single 16 or 18' door. If I park a tractor between cars, I can't get it out without moving one or the other car.

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GlenPettit

I put 1/2" styrofoam on the walls (outside of studs, under the OSB), now, in the Winter, I have a full 20º temperature gain, water never freezes. I did finish it in drywall and put (all the cheap miss-matched fiberglass I could get free) in the ceiling, about 4-5" thick, so now it's very easy to heat. Added recycled corrigated board (with the little air channels) between the studs. Lots of duplex wall outlets.On the floor drains, Great idea, be sure to have the cement guys sloop the floor very slightly to the drains.Go at least 26' deep, at least 24' wide; that way you can use just one 16' wide door for two big trucks (with just one power opener), trucks angled slightly when in, and gives a little work room. If you're going to really work much in there, you must go much bigger, both directions. Lot cheaper to make bigger the first time, than an add on later. A semi-open lean-to, with extended roof is better for low-use storage, only keep tools & current 'live' projects inside the garage, like Wheel Horses. Vertical siding catches less rain and dirt. A walk-thru door & several high windows are very nice. If the wife is going to use it/park, add a second lean-to/porch for her near the house side, with a picnic table, chair . . . . got to get her to buy in too.Be higher than the ground all around it, for drainage. Never enough headroom, 10' would allow you to have a ceiling fan. With 6-12 roof pitch, singling lasts longer than on a 4-12 pitch. Nice to consider and allow for some 'attic' storage. Concrete 4" is fine, but if you know you'll be doing heavy work, go thicker or at least have a very good base. We're talking $3-5,000 in materials, double that if you hire a builder, Box Stores have a free planning & material list service..

Last and most important bit of advice: Build it twice as big as you think you know you'll need.

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855ownerJoel

I would agree with no less than 24' deep. I have a crew cab with 6 1/2' box and that leaves me with anout 3' behind truck and about 1' in front when parked in garage. My garage is 8' tall. I agree with putting in 1 large garage door since it does not limit the width. If yu ever have camper style mirrors you will appreciate the double door. The bigger garage you can afford the better, you never have enough space. (They fill up faster than you would expect). Also regarding the floor pad, I would go with 4" minimum and 6" on an exterior pad if pouring one. The thickness of concrete is usually done depending on expected load. I am not a concrete person but have heard good things about the fiber mesh, would think rebar would be overkill for your application. Here is mine 24' X 24' works great but filled up fast.post-8621-0-75541200-1358436567_thumb.jp

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whfan74

Not a real detailed amount of information but here is the barn that dad put up just over 3 years ago......

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limited12

I am also thinking of building a garage, i looked at one that was 26x30 with storage overhead, that appeared to be a great size. Concrete should be a min 6" , i agree with the other post fiber mesh is good option. Instead of a turned down slab, i would dig footings, lay block then floor, this will get it out of the ground better for drainage. The drains are a good idea, but if you need a permit this could cause some issues. One 16' door would be nice option, with a 3/0 side door.

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tunahead72

I'm seeing lots of good ideas here, guys, in a real short period of time. Nice work, I'll be watching this one.

A couple of quick thoughts off the top of my head (without referring to my huge "garage ideas" file :) ):

  • Check your county's building regulations early in the process, best to discover potential problems now rather than later.
  • Definitely make it bigger than you think you need. For depth, my full-size pickup with an extended cab and 8' bed was 20'4" long, a crew cab might be a foot or so longer; I'd say 24' depth minimum, more if you want a workbench or storage in front of your truck.
  • I would definitely insulate if you plan to spend any time in there, you know, working on Wheel Horses or something.
  • Include lots of electrical outlets, maybe 220V if you think you'll need it, and think about your lighting needs.
  • Consider adding plumbing, even if it's just for a sink.
  • If you go with a taller building or steeper roof, you can probably fit a storage loft up there somewhere.
  • I see what these guys are saying about the single wide garage door, but two smaller doors would allow you to control the amount of heat lost if you're opening them a lot in the winter. May not matter to you, just something to think about.

I'd personally love to see more photos! :popcorn:

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squonk

Watch drains. Some places will make you put in a grease trap. If I was doing it and money was no object (which of course for me it is) :) I'd put in radiant floor heat 6" min concrete for future above ground lift and the biggest electric service i could get. and make it bigger than you think you need. But then you have more to maintain. Former boss who is real picky put up a 30'X50'. Than squawked about how long it was taking him to finish off the interior! :)

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decksetter

My detached garage is 30 x 24 exterior dimensions with a single double wide garage door. I wish it was bigger. I have 2' deep shelving on one side for tools and 3' deep work benches on the other. In the end opposite the garage door it an old kerosene furnace (that I believe is missing parts, it was there when I moved in, I need to get rid of it). That space sure closes in on you fast. If I have stuff stacked on the work bench (which I always do...) and have to set up an extra work table (like I do right now...) and I can't get the 416-8 to start (because the battery is dead... like this past tuesday...) and I have to pull my full size reg cab long bed truck in (because the transmission is acting up... grr.......), it's pretty cramped.

Definitely go as big as you can afford. I think I would go 5" on the concrete, but you could probably get by with 4". Floor drains are a must, especially if you get much snow and plan on parking inside (or parking your Horse in there after you've plowed!). I don't like the single floor drains, I prefer the trough drains that go clear across the floor or even the pre-made floor drains that are rectangular (long and narrow). I just hate rolling my creeper down into that stupid round floor drain.......

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KC9KAS

My 30 X 40 is too small.

Put 4 100' posts in the ground....1 on each of the 4 corners of your property, then put a roof over your whole property.....Walls can be put up later! :ychain:

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855ownerJoel

I'm seeing lots of good ideas here, guys, in a real short period of time. Nice work, I'll be watching this one.

A couple of quick thoughts off the top of my head (without referring to my huge "garage ideas" file :) ):

  • Check your county's building regulations early in the process, best to discover potential problems now rather than later.
  • Definitely make it bigger than you think you need. For depth, my full-size pickup with an extended cab and 8' bed was 20'4" long, a crew cab might be a foot or so longer; I'd say 24' depth minimum, more if you want a workbench or storage in front of your truck.
  • I would definitely insulate if you plan to spend any time in there, you know, working on Wheel Horses or something.
  • Include lots of electrical outlets, maybe 220V if you think you'll need it, and think about your lighting needs.
  • Consider adding plumbing, even if it's just for a sink.
  • If you go with a taller building or steeper roof, you can probably fit a storage loft up there somewhere.
  • I see what these guys are saying about the single wide garage door, but two smaller doors would allow you to control the amount of heat lost if you're opening them a lot in the winter. May not matter to you, just something to think about.

I'd personally love to see more photos! :popcorn:

Should have thought of the building regulations, yes my 24' X 24' was the largest they would allow on my city lot. They also had height limits, good to know before getting too carried away with a plan. I also put footings under mine, more stable than just pouring a slab.

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bowtieguy

My 30 X 60 X 12 all steel insulated bldg w 4" concrete floor is "just about right".(we call it the Horse Barn)........should have added copper tubing to floor for hot water heating system..(so you can take a nap while you are on the floor looking at your next project)....has one walk in door and one overhead 10 x 12.....cost:...9K ...with lots of "wheeling and dealing"....

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ThreeHorses

What you are wanting would work better with a post frame or stick built building, especialyy if you want to heat it.

Consider dividing it up so don't have to heat the whole building if using part of it as a work shop.

I've got a 15' x 30' x 12' tall A-frame metal buildind for my truck camper, vertical siding and roof.

Vertical siding looks much better, horizontal is cheapier with the carports.

The metal carports need some insulation under the steel or you'll have condensation dripping down on what's stored inside.

The vertical steel siding on them are normally in 10' increments, horizontal siding carports are normally in 5' increments.

If going the metal building route I'd go with a 12' or 18' center section 25' or 30' long with lean-tos' on each side, or 24' wide with 1 lean-to.

If going 24' wide put a 18' x 8' door or 2 10' x 8' doors on the center section.

Open or closed lean-to's on one or both sides.

A 10' x 8' garage doors works really well for your truck and a 10' x 7' or 8' tall doorf or the pop-up camper, 9x7's or even 8x7's would work good for your tractors if you go to 3 doors.

Doors from the metal carport building companies are often undersized from standard doors.

Definitely would want a walk door, some windows for ventilation in the summer.

A drain is good if you can do it where truck is pulled in if you have a concrete floor and get snow.

Most conventional garages have the floor slope to the door side some, hard to do if sitting a metal building on the concrete. Need a level area for the building to sit on.

Could do a foundation with a poured short wall or filled block, with anchor bolts to go thru the metal frame. Make sure you check with metal bluiding company for spacing.

Then pour a 4" re-enforced concrete slab with a drain between these.

I've got a 26' x 38'x11' sidewall detached garage with 2 9'x8' doors, 1 10'x9' door and a walk-door on the one side.

Also have a 12'x24' lean-to shop on the end where the walk door is, the ground slopes away so it is on treated piers with a wood floor joist.

A small propane infrared heater heats the shop area quickly or keeps it warm enough to work in without using a ot of fuel.

Currently I'm walling off the end 15' of the garage that adjoins the shop so I can heat it if I want to.

The walk door and 1 9'x8' garage door are in one end of this area, have a window in the back wall.

Concrete floor with a floor drain.

Should be fairly easy to heat to a working in temperature when required.

I agree on size, figure out what you think you'll need then build it a little bigger.

Are you going to get a larger camper or a boat in the future? If so plan your building now so you can store it inside if you do.

Maybe just by running the roof ridge so you can build a 12'+ side wall addition on one end later if necessary.

Consider resale implications if you need to move down the road.

The metal carports are really just shelters, not conducive to being a year round workshop or heated area.

Confused yet? Just think of what you want down the road, try to make sure what you do now will work with those wants.

If you can't afford it all at this time do what you can now and add to it later.

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decksetter

should have added copper tubing to floor for hot water heating system

Doesn't have to be copper, the new church I am working on is 10,000 sq ft and they did theirs out of pex. Much cheaper and easier!

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refracman

I would go with your wallet can handle, with what they offer, at least 24' x 31' x 10' with 2 garage doors on 31' 8' x 10', a 36" x 82" door and at least 2 windows on the back and 2 on the end with one window onlong with the door. I put in for my area and it priced out at $7,755. Concrete in my area is $100 a yard and this would take 7.6 yds for the floor and anther 2 yd for a 2' x 8" footer, so at least $1000 for crete not including mesh or labor, for a stick built figure 17K at least. Not a bad deal all in all.

Just a few tips before you build.

Almost all residential buildings have only 4" floor with 5 bag cement mix concrete with wire mesh, its harder to finish fibrated and will leave fuzzies on the finish. Anything thicker, unless your going to park a heavy truck on it, is not the best use of your money. Make sure you compact any backfill under concrete very well and cover with 6mil plastic.

You will need to check you local codes on easement from property/ water/sewer/power lines, footers, hurricane strapping plate and stud dimentions

Most codes do not permit drains because of oils and antifreeze getting into the water table. While they are nice they also present a hazard. A good slope on the concrete grade and door seat will drain fine and no need for a drain.

Edited by refracman

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midnight rambler

i didnt read everybodys ideas and thoughts but here are a few things to think about. if its a pole shed they put concrete pucks under the poles and concrete goes in last. also is you plan on having it insulated ask about the liner kit for it, when you upgrade to that it will allow for greater roof strenght (snow load) as far as drains go, put them in and cover them up so your inspector dosent ask for a drainage plan. as with the water you will want in there

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