Torino 14 #1 Posted January 15, 2013 C-175 I noticed this yesterday. The axle is protruding. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
racinfool40 202 #2 Posted January 15, 2013 Check your set screw and Jamb nut on the inside of the hub..while your at it I would pull the hub and check the woodruff key and your key way in the hub. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GlenPettit 1,716 #3 Posted January 15, 2013 That's a minor problem & an easy fix. Axle should be even. Just on the inside of the Hub there are one or two (square head) bolts with a hex nut locking the bolt and Hub to the axle. If just one bolt, some of us have filed/ground a flat or concave spot on the axle so the lock bolt 'seats' tighter & more secure. Two bolts (newer models) usually doesn't slip. Be sure to loosen the hex lock bolt first; a square head bolt has more contact with the wrench, stronger grip. In cold weather, metal shrinks slightly, things loosen. Sometimes on newer models there may be a square woodruff keyway, that key could have fallen out, but I don't see that you had one in your photo, may just be painted over. That missing Lug Nut is a big factor, plus it looks like you may have an "inside Wheel Weight" on 'Bar Lug Tires', all three of those add stress on the wheel/axle. Photos, sure help solve problems. Woops, no Weights there, I was Looking through the wheel and seeing the floor. (2pm) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #4 Posted January 15, 2013 As the others have said, it may be as easy as tightening up the setscrews. However the hub can wear in the bore, so if it continues to loosen up then probably your hub is wallowed out (or your axle is worn - usually most of the wear is in the hub). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Torino 14 #5 Posted January 15, 2013 Ok, this may be a stupid question since no one mentioned it. Once I loosen the screw do I knock the axle back in? The lug nut is somewhere on the floor. I just have not found it yet. Funny how they can grow legs and get up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 565 #6 Posted January 15, 2013 (edited) No....after loosening the hub set screws you will hopefully be able to slide the hub out to where it belongs and reset the screws. If not you will need to devise a puller to pull the hub. Please do not tap it out with a hammer. These hubs are cast and are brittle. Internal damage could also occur. There are many threads about pulling hubs. Edited January 15, 2013 by Trouty56 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #7 Posted January 15, 2013 Your axle hasnt slid out, what has happened is that your hub has slid in. With the setscrews loosened it will probably be easy to slide it back out to flush with the end of the axle. If it will slide right off the axle, take the opportunity to check the condition of the woodruff key (in the axle) and the matching slot in the hub. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Torino 14 #8 Posted January 15, 2013 Once I get the hub back right means there will be about a 1/2" from the trans case to the hub is that normal? I have 4 horses and on each there is about 1/8" from hub to case. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
groundhog47 347 #9 Posted January 15, 2013 Once I get the hub back right means there will be about a 1/2" from the trans case to the hub is that normal? I have 4 horses and on each there is about 1/8" from hub to case. Tractor Supply and prob others sell a 1 1/8" collar with set screw, the proper name eludes me at the moment, it may be 3/4" wide though, that you could use as a back up, but only for the one with axel room. I was plannin' on that till got mine to stop driftin' by just loosenin; jam nut and retightenin' set screw, As of last check with about two mows hasn't moved. I did end up with a new allen head set screw when added studs to hubs, but original set screws where still good at ends. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wishin4a416 2,191 #10 Posted January 15, 2013 I think there called wheel collars groundhog and good tip. Once I get the hub back right means there will be about a 1/2" from the trans case to the hub is that normal? I have 4 horses and on each there is about 1/8" from hub to case. Tractor Supply and prob others sell a 1 1/8" collar with set screw, the proper name eludes me at the moment, it may be 3/4" wide though, that you could use as a back up, but only for the one with axel room. I was plannin' on that till got mine to stop driftin' by just loosenin; jam nut and retightenin' set screw, As of last check with about two mows hasn't moved. I did end up with a new allen head set screw when added studs to hubs, but original set screws where still good at ends. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,131 #11 Posted January 16, 2013 They're called shaft collars and they would work as a band-aid on certain axles, but there isn't always room behind the hubs ~ which leads into this: Once I get the hub back right means there will be about a 1/2" from the trans case to the hub is that normal? I have 4 horses and on each there is about 1/8" from hub to case. There are many different models of the Uni-Drives and the space between the wheel hub and the axle housing varies. Regardless of the model, the hub face should always be flush with the end of the axle. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorseSteve 56 #12 Posted January 16, 2013 That missing Lug Nut is a big factor, plus it looks like you may have an "inside Wheel Weight" on 'Bar Lug Tires', all three of those add stress on the wheel/axle. Photos, sure help solve problems. Woops, no Weights there, I was Looking through the wheel and seeing the floor. (2pm) Would inside weights really add more stress to the axle than outside? If anything I think it would be less... as the center of gravity of the weight itself is closer to the plane of the wheel bearing. I run 65lb inside wheel weights on both of my Cs and thought they were a better idea than the weights that stick outside the outer edge of the rim. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rick 233 #13 Posted January 18, 2013 I think Glen was referring to rotational stress, where the added traction from the weights/bar treads prevents the wheel from spinning, thus adding stress to the hub/axle connection. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorseSteve 56 #14 Posted January 18, 2013 I think Glen was referring to rotational stress, where the added traction from the weights/bar treads prevents the wheel from spinning, thus adding stress to the hub/axle connection. Makes sense! So weights in general... not specifically inside wheel wheels. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
groundhog47 347 #15 Posted January 19, 2013 They're called shaft collars and they would work as a band-aid on certain axles, but there isn't always room behind the hubs ~ which leads into this: Once I get the hub back right means there will be about a 1/2" from the trans case to the hub is that normal? I have 4 horses and on each there is about 1/8" from hub to case. There are many different models of the Uni-Drives and the space between the wheel hub and the axle housing varies. Regardless of the model, the hub face should always be flush with the end of the axle. Yes, correct, that name finally came to me, and you are correct, I saw a pic of axel on here flush hubs and no space visible between hub and tran housing, Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
