Jake Kuhn 1,554 #26 Posted February 17, 2013 If you have a air chisel, that will work really good to get the hubs off. Never used a hub puller so I don't know, maybe those work really good. But I have had very good luck with an air chisel to remove hubs. Jake Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welderman85 53 #27 Posted February 17, 2013 great work i have got hubs off with a 3 jaw puller it worked pretty good Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jay in nc 210 #28 Posted February 17, 2013 please DON'T use a 3 jaw puller on cast iron hubs that are stuck. all you will do is crack & break them. a pickel fork on the air chizzel works well, so does using another hub. Jay 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Whmaverick 54 #29 Posted February 20, 2013 if it were easy everyone would do it! lol, looks like you got it by the tail though. progress is progress. all looks good! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forest Road 594 #30 Posted February 20, 2013 The puller is the safest way to remove hubs. If you have access to an oxy/acetelene torch set it really helps. Looks like you're making some nice progress. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wishin4a416 2,191 #31 Posted February 20, 2013 (edited) Your right about that Keith. I just hope I dont have to pull another set for awhile. No oxy/acet Forest but i did use the Propane. And did bump the big bolt on my hub puller with a borrowed air hammer to shake it loose. Thanks Jake. There both blasted, primed, painted and chased all the threads. Done. Got some packages in the mail this week. A decent deal on tires and no shipping from N.C. And a reconditioned dash from one of our forum members. Very nice indeed. Thanks Bob. Edited February 20, 2013 by Wishin4a416 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jake Kuhn 1,554 #32 Posted February 21, 2013 Very nice! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Whmaverick 54 #33 Posted February 28, 2013 Nice dash plate, should really pop. I like how the steering towers and dash panels look on this era tractor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
312Hydro 474 #34 Posted March 2, 2013 That's some nice detailing on your parts. Just looking at the work you did on your Chevy, I can tell that this project will look better than the factory! I'm waiting for that warm weather too. Great work! :handgestures-thumbupright: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wishin4a416 2,191 #35 Posted March 2, 2013 Thanks Rich! Havent heard from you in awhile. I guess we all are in Hibernation mode. The big snows have been missing us. The blowers arnt getting much of a workout here. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
546cowboy 301 #36 Posted March 3, 2013 (edited) You're s looks mighty good compared to the one I got a couple weeks ago. Mine was partly disassembled and does not have the 16 Kohler in it. Has a 14 K-321. By the way after I cleaned the oil and grease off and wire brushed I sprayed rust converter paint on the rusted spots. Hence the black spots. The hood and seat pan are pitted pretty bad but it should turn out OK. I have too many to work on before this one gets it's turn but this should keep the rust from getting any worse. Edited March 3, 2013 by 546cowboy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wishin4a416 2,191 #37 Posted March 3, 2013 Looks good Cowboy. Yea the rust is always a sure thing on these older tractors. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wishin4a416 2,191 #38 Posted March 3, 2013 Finally got it all the way down even though the pic shows the transaxle still on. Gonna powerwash the frame and then blast it and then the tranny off to the parts cleaner at work for a good cleaning and flush. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wishin4a416 2,191 #39 Posted March 5, 2013 Got the frame degreased and blasted today. Got to weld up the crack of doom and then some epoxy primer and then some red paint. It cleaned up real good with very little pitting. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheel-N-It 2,968 #40 Posted March 5, 2013 Jack, where did you get the tires from in NC??? Van Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wishin4a416 2,191 #41 Posted March 10, 2013 Well the frame is red again. But I need a new gun. The 30 year old gun just wouldnt adjust down like it used to. 68 degrees and sunny so I took advantage of it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Whmaverick 54 #42 Posted March 12, 2013 Jack, I see your ready to start the assembly, your work on the parts sure looks good. I use a "launch pad" as I call it for the assembly process. It consists of a sheet of 3/4" plywood top with a 18" tall box made out of plywood that fits the inside of a kids four wheel wagon. Some two-by material is used as stiffeners for the "table top". This allows me to have a table that is moble and elevated. Once the build progresses to mechanical completion and is ready to be on the ground, I simply strap it to the table, roll the table to the tailgate of my pickup truck with the front lip of the table just over the tailgate, then I position my floor jack under the rear of the table, and lift the table allowing the wagon to be slid out from under the table. Then simply let the rear of the table down to the ground. Remove the jack and add a short piece of plywood to roll the tractor off of the table onto the ground. Launch pad can be stood along a wall or is ready for the next build. Seams involved but actually works smoothly and is worth the effort for the ease of the build and convenience of portability. That's what I do, but I had everything already to do this. I hope your build goes smooth and look forward to more progress. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jake Kuhn 1,554 #43 Posted March 12, 2013 looking great! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wishin4a416 2,191 #44 Posted April 18, 2013 Haven't got much done lately since the weather change. I did get the tranny split in half and cleaned up. I got a new gasket and seals and a needle bearing on the way. Thanks to Steve for some info!!!! I still haven't got that pesky little broken off screw out that holds the shifter but have some cobalt bits coming from a machinist friend. A little progress is better than none I guess. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wishin4a416 2,191 #45 Posted April 20, 2013 I guess the right tool for the job holds true. The Cobalt bit went right through the case hardened allen screw. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rdmanone 29 #46 Posted April 21, 2013 Your tractor is coming along real nice. Love the new red paint. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,125 #47 Posted April 21, 2013 Great progress so far...you're making it look too easy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wishin4a416 2,191 #48 Posted April 22, 2013 Ready to go back together now. That pesky broken off screw is out and new bearing in and gasket surfaces are clean. Will put the halves together tomorrow and get it painted up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hatedge 10 #49 Posted April 23, 2013 Your 160 is comming along nicely. Im put to shame with that kinda deep in restoration youre doing. Wish I had acces to parts like you fellows have down there. One day ill stop being so stingy and get new parts instead of doing away with what I got, but if I where to buy all the basics I need for my 160 it would add up to 1200$ or more. cannot afford that kind o spending or the wife will tan me hide Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wishin4a416 2,191 #50 Posted April 30, 2013 Starting to reassemble the Chassis but time is scarce with Spring here and the Weather change. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
