e-tank or sand blast which better?

[855ownerJoel 32]

I currently am sandblasting all my parts. Have been researching e-tank as a better method. What is the opinion on here? Anybody using an e-tank and any pros or cons?

[rmaynard 15,718]

Sandblast will remove more. E-tank only neutralizes rust by turning it from red oxide to black oxide. It will not remove paint unless the steel under the paint is rusted.

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[HorseFixer 2,012]

I don't have an E-Tank but would like to, I think they both have advantages. I think sandblasting sets up a good profile and TEETH to allow the primer to bite and adhear to the metal surface.

~Duke

[buckrancher 2,694]

they both have there purpose but sand blasting is faster by far and I agree with Bob sand blasting leaves a good surface

for primer as long as your blasting abrasive is not to course

Brian

[Kelly 1,030]

For me blasting is faster, and does a better job, E tank most times requrers blasting after anyways, and you must force dry the parts or rust will start almost the sec. you pull the part from the tank.

[fireman 1,022]

I would do both if you really want a rust free part. My first RJ had sat out in the open weather for probably 20 years. Some of the parts were really pitted bad. I only had a sandblaster at the time. I sand blasted the parts and when I looked at the part under a magnifying glass I could still see rust in the crevices. I researched and built an E-tank. I let the parts sit in the tank for a few days. It was amazing evan after sandblasting how much rust was still attracted to the sacrificial steel plates I used.

I think a lot of wether or not someones E-tank work well or not depends on their setup. I did a ton of research as well as talked to a friend who is an Electrical Engineer. I have a 35 gallon plastic garbage can and a 12 volt DC power supply that put's out around 15 amps. I also use 1/8" steel plates that are about 2' x 12". When the part is in the tank, it would be ideal to have sacrificial material surrounding 360 degrees. The process works better when the rusty surface is directly facing your sacrificial material. It also works better if the material has a lot of surface area. A solid steel plate will work far better than steel rods or mesh etc. I have four plates in my tank and try to make sure the surface I need cleaned is facing one of them. Sometimes I have to leave a part in place for a day, then rotate it a little for another day. When I cleaned out the tank after a year or so, there was over an 1" of sludge and rust at the bottom. The sacrificial plates where slightly black/rusty with minor pitting. The other key thing I noticed is you need to keep the sacrificial material clean. I remove mine after each part and scrape off any junk that may have accumulated. I have used the same steel plates for almost 5 years and they are still in great shape.

Just my $.02

Edited January 1, 2013 by fireman

[kpinnc 12,766]

As has been said already- both have advantages. An E-tank will break up rusted-on parts, like a steering wheel or any frozen up parts. The E-tank also removes rust without removing material from the actual part. Sandblasting just scours off material.

An interesting idea was posted on another thread (I don't remember which one), which was to E-tank parts to loosen everything up- and then blast with a softer media like walnut shells. This would prevent damaging the part, at least in theory.

I use my E-tank regularly. It's nice to remove rust while you sleep. Of course it isn't as fast as blasting, but it can be working while you do other things, which in that way is a huge time-saver.

[VinsRJ 723]

I do both methods... e-tank and then sandblast. I hate to blast so anything that will cut that time in half I'm in for!

[welderman85 53]

i e tank most of my stuff. i dont own a blaster but i have a guy that dose it for me. i used to blast everything untill i found out about the e tank. Now i e tank everything. It works great. On most parts it removes the paint and rust. i pull the parts out hit them with a wire wheel and prime.

[Stigian 1,234]

For me it's got to be an E-tank, easy rust and paint removal while doing something else :handgestures-thumbup:

[SousaKerry 502]

I use both usually e-tank hoods and fender pans since they will not fit easily in the blaster at work. smaller suff I just take to work and blast at lunch time if I'm not on here.

[855ownerJoel 32]

Thanks for input, I think I am still going to put together an e-tank and see how well it works. The different replies really help!

[can whlvr 993]

i would build one if i were you,very handy

[Lars 526]

here is a pict of e tanking when i did my 551 hood

and i used a pressure washer

and a then wire brush with drill to get that black oxide off.. it was clean and nice... then ill put on a coat of ferrobet on it.. then it dont rust (link to ferrobet http://www.ferrobet.no/index_eng.asp) that stuff works...

but frame,tranny,rims get's sandblasted..

Edited January 6, 2013 by Knusern

[JamesBe1 82]

I have both. I use the e-tank when I am not in a hurry and something needs a good cleaning. I can leave it in the tank for days on end and not worry about it. The downside is that it process leaves a black oxide layer on the part that needs to be manually removed. Sometimes it's a real pain to then have to wire brush it or use a scotch-brite pad. Then I dry them and primer them.

On the other hand, I have a small sandblaster (barrel-blaster) that I can fit most parts into. I need a better compressor at the moment, but the one I have works fine for about 5 minutes or so and then needs to refill. Still, it is pretty thorough and when I'm done, I just give the parts a quick rinse to remove the dust and dry them in a warm place (I use the oven when the wife is not around), and they are ready for primer.

Overall, the sandblaster is quicker and easier. The e-tank is more thorough provided I can remove all of the oxide. I usually find myself opting for the sandblaster.

Oh, and I have a large sandblasting kinda-booth that I made out of plastic sheeting that I hung from the ceiling and taped to the floor with a zipper entry that I use for large parts that won't fit into the barrel-blaster. It works well, but I have to get a larger compressor to run it for more than a couple of minutes at a time.

[JimmyJam 542]

This very interesting stuff. I am now thinking of building an e-tank too!

Those that have them: 1.) Do you use a 15amp car battery charger? 2.) What is the ratio water to washing soda? 3.) Some use HOT water. Does it matter initially?

[JimmyJam 542]

For those that sandblast (other than those who have ability to sandblast at their job): How do you do it? Take parts to a place that sandblasts (costs?)? or Do you have a home setup, like a pressurized abrasive blaster (Harbor Freight)?

[Martin 2,133]

this is along the lines of the e-tank method.

back home years ago i restored autos with my uncle and what we used to do was set up a 55 gallon drum full of lemons. the lemons were no good for eating, just a little old, but we could get way more than we ever needed for free. we 3/4 filled a drum with crushed or just mangled lemons, do it in the drum as all the good stuff in the lemons that does the work stays in there, and throw your parts in on a wire anchored to the top of the drum so you dont have to fish around in there for parts later (that stuff gets nasty after a while with all the rust and crap mixes with the lemons.)

we had a bigger tank for doors, fenders etc.

it seems from what you guys are saying about the etank setups that it probably takes a similar amount of time to 'convert the rust' and the result looks very similar to what pics of the etank results that are posted on the forum by members....

since ive been here in the usa though, i just blast everything as i have access to blast equipment for small stuff up to whatever will fit in a roughly 12 x 24 ft room. the blast method doesnt get rid off 100% of the rust though, as it folds aggressively pitted metal over on itself and traps the rust in the pitting. ive seen it cause problems with gas out with powder for years now, as the air trapped in the metal escapes when its heated in the cure ovens.

Edited January 6, 2013 by Martin

[JamesBe1 82]

This very interesting stuff. I am now thinking of building an e-tank too!

Those that have them: 1.) Do you use a 15amp car battery charger? 2.) What is the ratio water to washing soda? 3.) Some use HOT water. Does it matter initially?

For those that sandblast (other than those who have ability to sandblast at their job): How do you do it? Take parts to a place that sandblasts (costs?)? or Do you have a home setup, like a pressurized abrasive blaster (Harbor Freight)?

All it really takes is a plastic tank (bucket/barrel/etc) some water and a cup of washing soda (not baking soda), a battery charger, and a sacrificial piece of steel. Positive goes to the sacrificial metal, and negative goes to the part to be derusted. I believe the smokestack site has some great discussion on it as well as other threads here. Be careful not to reverse the polarity as it will damage the part to be cleaned (I learned that the hard way). Also, be careful what metal you use as the sacrificial part. Never use Stainless steel as the reaction produces Hexavalent Chromuim.

Sandblasters are not cheap as well as the compressor to run one. You need a lot of air. I got a barrel blaster mostly because they were not too expensive and made in usa. Also, if you are handy, I have run across a couple of sites where people have made their own out of plywood.

http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13789

Edited January 6, 2013 by JamesBe1

[855ownerJoel 32]

... the blast method doesnt get rid off 100% of the rust though, as it folds aggressively pitted metal over on itself and traps the rust in the pitting. ive seen it cause problems with gas out with powder for years now, as the air trapped in the metal escapes when its heated in the cure ovens.

Interesting.... makes me believe that using an e-tank and then do a light sandblast to clean up would be better than "folding pitted metal over itself" trapping rust.

[kpinnc 12,766]

All it really takes is a plastic tank (bucket/barrel/etc) some water and a cup of washing soda (not baking soda),

Baking soda works just fine BTW. It's all I've ever used.

[Rollerman 290]

I use both methods.

Nice thing about the E tank...you don't have to be present to do it.

It's pretty effective like others have said at removeing paint, rust, freeing froze parts, & also works good at lifting old dirt & grease.

Set a part in the tank & go work on or do something else.

It will lift paint too, not as efficient as blasting, but for example anytime I've soaked mid 80ies or newer Horse sheet metal the paint pretty much fell off as I lifted it from the tank..."maybe it's something in my water"?

Again like others have said it works line of site between the part being soaked & the sacrificial anodes.

I use a 40gallon plastic barrel with four 2"x1/4" flat steel at each quarter for my anodes.

It's working as I type cleaning parts for my Heald Hauler rebuild.

I've used both Arm & Hammer bakeing soda & powdered washing detergent, I feel the washing detergent works better...especially if parts are grimey with old grease.

I'll agree blasting gives a better bite for primer/paint, it's also messy & hard on the lungs if your not carfull.

[SMITTY 23]

A 5 gallon bucket for small parts. A 35 gallon rubbermaid tub for big parts. Add 12 volts for 24 hours sand blast to remove what's left prime and add some Red and just like new.