AMC RULES 37,126 #1 Posted December 13, 2012 I finally committed to blowing apart my rusty 702 tonight, and discovered this nice little surprise awaiting me. YIKES! What is the best recommendation for repairing this cracked trans mount...cut it out and replace it with new...or could I just weld a new, thicker piece of metal directly onto the original mount, and call it good for another 50 years of service? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smoreau 658 #2 Posted December 13, 2012 Craig, weld it back up and grind it smooth. Then add a plate on the inside to act as extra support. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dieselcowboy 210 #3 Posted December 13, 2012 I have a 753 with the same thing going on. If you have ever seen the newer WH's they have strips of plating that bolts across parallel holes. Weld the cracks up and cut a square plate to cover the front and drill 4 holes in it. Bolt it back together. Problem solved forever. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,126 #4 Posted December 13, 2012 Anyone have a pict of a completed repair they've done to add here too? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,029 #5 Posted December 13, 2012 I'm not at my putor right now, but I fixed some cracks on my round hood project 2 winters ago, I V'ed out the cracks and welded them up both sides, ground them down, when I put it back together I used large thick washers called fenders washers, I work the tractor but will never work real hard so I figure it is good for as long as I own it, and being it was a gift from a dying uncle I'll never sell it. I'll add pics when I'm back on my putor 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smoreau 658 #6 Posted December 13, 2012 I did before my laptop crashed a few years ago. sorry Craig. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
312Hydro 474 #7 Posted December 13, 2012 Go here- post #44 I "veed" out the cracks,mig welded them and ground smooth. Also remade the metal strips on the inside and welded them too. The only thing I needed to add was the extra hole for the cable being that it was a 300 series. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,126 #8 Posted December 13, 2012 I'll use Rachael's two thumbs up, because hers look so much better than mine. Thanks guys. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whc160 74 #9 Posted December 13, 2012 Craig check out this topic. I bougth the last plate my dealer got from Toro. So I took pics & measurements. New they would come in handy one day. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,017 #10 Posted December 13, 2012 I finally committed to blowing apart my rusty 702 tonight, and discovered this nice little surprise awaiting me. YIKES! What is the best recommendation for repairing this cracked trans mount...cut it out and replace it with new...or could I just weld a new, thicker piece of metal directly onto the original mount, and call it good for another 50 years of service? You're not working on that in the living room are ya? :ychain: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
littleredrider 409 #11 Posted December 13, 2012 It was real bad on the the 854, I had an extra frame from a 141 I think. Ground out the welds and welded to the 854. Thicker metal, extra bracing, shouldn't have any probs with this. It won't be worked very hard, if I ever get it back together.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,126 #12 Posted December 13, 2012 I finally committed to blowing apart my rusty 702 tonight, and discovered this nice little surprise awaiting me. YIKES! What is the best recommendation for repairing this cracked trans mount...cut it out and replace it with new...or could I just weld a new, thicker piece of metal directly onto the original mount, and call it good for another 50 years of service? You're not working on that in the living room are ya? Nope...in the basement, right in front of the hot water heater Mike...disassembled it in my bare feet too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,029 #13 Posted December 13, 2012 Not the best pics, but I Ved the cracks with a die grinder, both sides, this is only the back side. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welderman85 53 #14 Posted December 13, 2012 I agree will Kelly I think thats the best way just vee out the cracks and weld them up then place bigger washers on it to help that way its fixed and still looks original Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 604 #15 Posted December 13, 2012 Here is a picture of my 1977 C-120 with the extra strip of metal from the factory. I would get the next longer bolts and add metal thickness to take up the difference. With a flat mounting plate like your 702 I would use a wider strip top and bottom. My C-120 has a ridge formed above that strip and another below top bolts. I have only use my tractor mostly for mowing and haven't damage the mount. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,518 #16 Posted December 13, 2012 Weld, grind smooth, adding a 1/4" plate to the inside of the mount. Be sure to add 1/4" to the new bolt lengths. Simple repair and will last many years as you noted. Of course a new coat of paint before assembly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #17 Posted December 13, 2012 Go here- post #44 I "veed" out the cracks,mig welded them and ground smooth. Also remade the metal strips on the inside and welded them too. The only thing I needed to add was the extra hole for the cable being that it was a 300 series. ...skip down to Post 44 in the thread...... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #18 Posted December 14, 2012 Ouch!! That must of affected the handling a bit!! Yep, weld it up and add an extra plate inside for extra strength, that's what I would do. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,126 #19 Posted December 14, 2012 Here is a picture of my 1977 C-120 with the extra strip of metal from the factory. I would get the next longer bolts and add metal thickness to take up the difference. With a flat mounting plate like your 702 I would use a wider strip top and bottom. My C-120 has a ridge formed above that strip and another below top bolts. I have only use my tractor mostly for mowing and haven't damage the mount. I've noticed from all the repair picts posted, that the stress cracks seem to be running vertically between the mounting holes... wouldn't it be better to add bracing material vertically to cover these areas, rather than horizontally like the factory repair? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KATO 115 #20 Posted December 14, 2012 I agree it would make more sense..but if your going to the trouble of making a plate or two why not make one to fill the entire area like was already mentioned and weld it in permanent ??? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 565 #21 Posted December 14, 2012 Here is a picture of my 1977 C-120 with the extra strip of metal from the factory. I would get the next longer bolts and add metal thickness to take up the difference. With a flat mounting plate like your 702 I would use a wider strip top and bottom. My C-120 has a ridge formed above that strip and another below top bolts. I have only use my tractor mostly for mowing and haven't damage the mount. I've noticed from all the repair picts posted, that the stress cracks seem to be running vertically between the mounting holes... wouldn't it be better to add bracing material vertically to cover these areas, rather than horizontally like the factory repair? Craig....from looking at the frame design there seems to be vertical bracing on the outside. Vertical cracks to me would be from horizontal flexing. As stout as the frame is I find it hard to understand how forward force could flex that framework because the trans is against the whole flat area. In reverse though only the bolts would carry the stress. I wonder that is how the frames crack??? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forest Road 594 #22 Posted December 14, 2012 What's the problem? After 40+ years its finally broken in! Ohhhh I kill me! Make a 1/4"plate to cover the entire are like a giant washer. And put her back together. Then weld it in place. Come on now you've probably commented on a dozen posts just like this. You'll be fine! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 565 #23 Posted December 14, 2012 Yeah Craig....come on!! lol 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,126 #24 Posted December 15, 2012 Something like this 3,4,500 series tranny brace would take care of the problem too. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lars 526 #25 Posted December 15, 2012 (edited) That will work realy good... i have fab one that looks the same on my brothers puller.. and that works:) Edited December 15, 2012 by Knusern 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
