stevasaurus 22,711 #1 Posted November 29, 2012 I know, how many transmission rebuilds can we have? This one will be a little different. The WH #5007 transmission came with the 701 and the 551 Roundhoods only, but it is basically the same as the #5025 3 speed uni-drive and the other spur gear differential transmissions in group II in the manual. The manual link... http://www.mywheelho...ns/492-4004.pdf The only visual difference I found on the outside of the transmission for identification...the drain and fill plugs are the same size...1/4" NPT with 3/8" hex head.. The WH #5025 has different sized drain and fill plugs. I cleaned out and rebuilt this transmission for Brrly1 (John). It was in bad shape. The bearings were either froze or gone, the cluster gear and both forked gears and the 11/44 toothed brake shaft gear were worn beyond use. Evidence that, who ever had this horse, did not come to complete stop before shifting. Racinfool74 had the gears we needed and the #1533 bearings. All of the rest of the bearings and seals I was able to get from Motion Industries. I will put up a sheet with all of the bearing and seal cross over numbers at the end of this post. I managed to do a video of the build of the differential and my test counter for breaking in the transmission...sorry...no video of the trans rebuild. I was having technical difficulties with the camera. How about some pictures? Cleaned and painted case halves...minus bearings and seals. John, I used Rustoleum "Regal Red". Here is what it looked like when I got it open. All of the bearings and seals...minus the #1533 ball bearings. Bearings and seals in place...flush with the outside of the case. The inside bearings are flush with the inside of the case. The needle bearing in the input shaft was gone. Picture shows the new bearing and the spline shaft that rides in the bearing. The parts that make up the differential. Here is a short video of putting the differential together. Click on video. (need to fix utube...pending) All the gears and shafts that go into the transmission. The input shaft and the forked shafts in place. Adding the 11/44 toothed brake shaft gear. All the rest of the gears...notice the differential having the nuts facing up. Also notice the reverse idler...the 5007 reverse idler is the same on both sides...usually it is beveled on one side and that bevel would face up. All done... Another short video of how I break these transmissions in and make sure they run and shift correctly. Click on video. (I need to fix my utube for this...pending) here is a list of the bearing and seal numbers...This works for 5007, 5025, 5046, 5048, 5049, 5033 3 speed uni-drives. Description.....................................WH #...................Vender #..................Quantity.......size in side axle...ball...........................1533.......................n/a...........................2................1 1/2" ID out side axle...needle....................1528......................B-1616.....................2................1' x 1 1/4" x 1" input shaft...needle........................1508......................B-1212.....................2................3/4" x 15/16" x 3/4" 11/44 gear base...needle...cap......1532......................M-16121..................1.................1" x 1 1/4" x 3/4" brake shaft top end...needle..........1530......................B-1612.....................1.................1" x 1 1/4" x 3/4" cluster gear shaft...needle...cap....1529......................M-12121...................2................3/4" x 15/16" x 3/4" input spline shaft...needle...cap.....1531......................M-10121...................2................5/8" x 7/8" x 3/4" inside input gear shaft...needle......1518.....................B-108........................1................5/8" x 15/16" x 1/2" input gear seal...............................1303.....................skf-7410....................1 axle & brake shaft seals................1232.....................skf-9815...................3 Hope this helps ... 2011_12025007BRRLY0017.MP4 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,428 #2 Posted November 29, 2012 I don't think that my 701 needs transmission work, but if it does, you have taken a lot of work out of the "thinking" part of the job. Thanks Steve for another concise tutorial. :thumbs: 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimD 3,345 #3 Posted November 29, 2012 Steve, I have your business cards ready... mm, that hairdo looks a bit familiar. Do you smoke a pipe? Another great job buddy! :thumbs: 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dclarke 4,032 #4 Posted November 29, 2012 Another great thread Steve, Thanks. :eusa-clap: 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,131 #5 Posted November 29, 2012 great thread steve. im thinking of doing my second trans fairly soon and you just got me a whole lot more interested in getting on with it. i like the test bench you rigged up, great idea. these unidrives are a good trans to get into, not so much work that they become overwhelming, but just enough of a challenge that it feels like a real achievement to get it back together and listen to that nice quiet trans (hopefully) doing its thing....... i think im going to smooth and powdercoat the inside on my next one as well as doing the outside, just to be different...... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lars 526 #6 Posted November 30, 2012 Nice job there Dino.. great u make vid of how you do it.... im sure this is for big help for a lot of the members.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cruisnblue48 835 #7 Posted December 2, 2012 This is a really interesting thread. This summer, I purchased a 1961 Suburban in really bad condition. However, I have enough here to save this tractor from going to the scrap yard. In fact, already bought parts I needed (wheels, tires, hood, belt guard, engine) to turn this tractor into my next resto project. Anyway, the tranny is locked up. Gear lever is in neutral, won't go into any gear, and engine pulley/axles won't rotate. Thinking the bearings are frozen since I drained a lot of water out of it first thing after I got it home. Apparently, I will have to tackle my first transaxle rebuild to get her running again. This thread has given me the motivation to believe that I can start taking my tranny apart and bebuild it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cruisnblue48 835 #8 Posted December 2, 2012 .. by the way, this is the stuck tranny that I need to rebuild. . 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shynon 7,459 #9 Posted December 2, 2012 Steve great video and parts lists. I just took apart my first trans in quite some time, was full of water. Great to watch video. Now what can i do about the elusive 1533 bearings, as I have 2 more to rebuilt and 2 spares to rebuild and I think they will be just as bad. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,711 #10 Posted December 2, 2012 You are basically talking used #1533 bearings at this point. There is a few guys on the site here that may be able to sell you a set or 2. CharlieD250 had a way of rebuilding that bearing...I would like to see how he does it also. Hopefully, after you clean them, they are OK and useable. Cruisn...you never know what is in there until you open it up. I had one that was all locked up, and it was just dried up gear oil holding everything from moving. The parts and bearings all cleaned up with mineral spirits and wire brushing...only replaced the bronze bearings and the seals. I just opened one yesterday that is locked up...I am going to take pictures of this one...looks like oil sand in everything and the bearings are rusted. The gears look OK, but will have to replace all bearings and seals. I think it is saveable. Here to help if you need it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 604 #11 Posted December 2, 2012 I broke the bearing on the out put shaft to the differential in my transmission some time in the 80's pulling out 12 ft. pursimmon trees. I replaced all the bearings with out the aid of transmission manual. The transmissions are not hard to work on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jjzmurphy 0 #12 Posted August 3 Cannot read all the Koyo numbers ? Because if the water mark on the photo? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,311 #13 Posted August 3 1 hour ago, Jjzmurphy said: Cannot read all the Koyo numbers ? Because if the water mark on the photo? If you click on the picture it should open up without all that photo-bucket stuff splashed across it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites