stevasaurus 22,700 #1 Posted November 28, 2012 I have a drain plug on a uni-drive that is not cross threaded yet, but is not quite right. I would like to run it with a tap and clean it out. I think that plug is maybe a 1/4" pipe thread. Does anyone know which tap I need to clean the pipe thread? Plug is WH #943460. Thanks :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clintonnut 126 #2 Posted November 28, 2012 Its either 1/4" or 3/8" NPT. Measure the plug diameter and that will answer which one. Charlie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,029 #3 Posted November 28, 2012 I think it is 1/4" I use a pipe tap, just don't run it in to far or you will make the hole to big for the plug, as you know I'm sure, a pipe tap gets bigger the farther up the tap you go. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,700 #4 Posted November 28, 2012 Thanks guys...exactly what I needed to know. :) :bow-blue: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
varosd 1,185 #5 Posted November 28, 2012 Steve some folks also rec replacing with brass hex plug instead of allen OEM 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welderman85 53 #6 Posted November 28, 2012 1/4 inch npt and i have replaced the allen with a regular pipe plugs it makes them come much better 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheel-N-It 2,968 #7 Posted November 28, 2012 I am using brass on both of mine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SousaKerry 501 #8 Posted November 28, 2012 Make sure it is NPT not NPS NPT= National Pipe Taper NPS= National Pipe Strait :handgestures-thumbupright: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,700 #9 Posted November 28, 2012 (edited) Thanks guys...it is 1/4" NPT. I picked up the tap today and 2 brass plugs. It worked like a charm and the trans is together and running...no leaks. I may have discovered the difference between the #5007 and the #5025 3 speed uni-drives. Both the drain and fill plugs are the same size on the #5007...1/4" Npt and they were not allen head...3/8" hex head on both. I replaced them both with brass 1/4" NPT plugs with 3/8" hex heads. You guys are fantastic...thank you very much for you help. :) :) Cost was about $15 for the tap and the 2 brass plugs. This transmission is for Brrly1 (John), I think he will be very happy with the result. Edited November 28, 2012 by stevasaurus Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clemedc 29 #10 Posted November 29, 2012 Hi Steve I read a factory note regarding 5007 and 5025 Trannys and warranty work on the Yahoo Wheel Horse forum, that stated the only difference between the two Transmissions is the shifter and it instructed dealers to keep the shifter when turning the tranny in for warranty work so they would have a shifter as none would be provided. Clem Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,700 #11 Posted November 29, 2012 (edited) Interesting Clem...do you have a link to that?? I have spent considerable time trying to figure out the differences between different transmissions that are in the same group. I think some are internal and would take a tear down to discover...finding a difference on the outside makes it possible to identify a trans sitting at someones site at a swap meet. The differences in a group are always subtle for sure and it may not make a lot of difference to most, but if you are looking for a 5007, this may be one or the only way to tell on the outside. For all practical purposes, the #5007 is the same as a #5025...same gears, same bearings, same seals, same transmission halves, same gasket. Only other thing I saw, the grooves on the shift forks did not go all the way around the shaft, but I am not sure at this point if that is the same in the #5025. I do have a #5025...so I can take a look at the shifters to see if there is a difference there. See if you can find that link sir...thanks One note...they did use a different shifter in the #5025 if you got the HY-2 hydro lift. I have one of each and I will check. The HY-2 shifter has an extra bend in it. Edited November 29, 2012 by stevasaurus Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clemedc 29 #12 Posted November 29, 2012 Steve It looks like I made a mistake because I found the service bulliten and it refers to 5025 and 5045 transmissions not 5007 and 5025 even though we both know all three 5007, 5025 and 5045 all have parts that will interchange. but may have minor machining differences in non critical areas. At least I can speak for the 5007 and 5025 that I have seen have interchangable parts/gears etc. Ill attach a copy of that bulliten here Clem 5025-5045 SERVICE BULLITEN.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,700 #13 Posted November 29, 2012 Clem...yes the 5007 and 5025 have the same inside parts and are interchangeable...I would think that the 5046 would also interchange with the 5007 and 5025. The title of the service bulletin says "5025-5045". I believe this refers to the group of transmissions that includes the 5025 which are spur gear differentials (ie. 5007, 5025, 5046, 5048, 5049, 5058) and the group of transmissions that includes the 5045, which are bevel gear differentials (ie. 5045, 5047, 5051, 5059, 5058). :) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clemedc 29 #14 Posted November 29, 2012 Thanks Steve for all you share here. :woohoo: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmuone 15 #15 Posted December 1, 2012 I am bringing this back for a quick question. This tread and others on this subject have helped me greatly as I am a this stage. I finally got my drain plug from my c175 auto by first rounding out the allen plug. Then rounding out the torex bit. Then grinding down the easy out and applying heat with a BBQ starter it broke loose. I have the 1/4" npt brass hex plug to put back in the transmission hole. My question is should I put a dab of anti seeze on the plug? Would this help getting it out next time and perhaps prevent a drip or would it make any difference at all? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,131 #16 Posted December 1, 2012 Rust and galvanic corrosion won't be an issue with the brass plug, but anti-seize can't hurt. I feel confident saying that the main reason these tapered plugs get stuck is over-tightening. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmuone 15 #17 Posted December 1, 2012 Thanks Terry, I will put a little on and try not to over tighten. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
specialwheelhorse 174 #18 Posted December 2, 2012 Fellas I'm not to hot on chinese stuff but I did buy a set of pipe taps at Harbor Frieght a couple years ago and they have paid for themselves more than once. To clean exhaust threads Etc. They seem to be very good and in a very nice wooden case. Jim in Texas 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmuone 15 #19 Posted December 2, 2012 You are right Jim. I got a set from my BIL once and I have used them a lot retreading bolts. My set is also in a wooden case and I think a blue plastic insert to hold the pieces. Not sure where he bought it.....but he lived in Houston. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,700 #20 Posted December 2, 2012 (edited) Terry is right...you only need to snug these plugs...too easy to cross thread and over tighten. I've pulled out some that have had pipe joint on them and some that have been wrapped in Teflon tape...neither one is necessary if done correctly. Edited December 2, 2012 by stevasaurus Share this post Link to post Share on other sites