Value of this 633?

[47JDG 65]

Can you still find kits for them? I am not familar with a Tillotson, I have experience with mainly Carter's and Walbro Carbs.

[HorseWhisperer 243]

I just bought one complete but in pieces for 100!original kohler complete with recoil but seperate.

[47JDG 65]

A 633 or a Kohler?

[AMC RULES 37,125]

Seems to me, for your $100 investment, you did really well.

[HorseWhisperer 243]

633 w the kohler

[47JDG 65]

Cool, I will need to find a recoil for mine.

[rydogg 186]

You did well and have a good start to a nice horse!! Here is a couple pictures of my 633 models I have had a k141 with the tilly carb sitting on a shelf for a while now and I am finally getting it installed I found an air cleaner on ebay and just painted it to match the engine, the recoil is a cast aluminum and you will need the starter cup also you can usually find these on ebay or I may have an extra I will need to do some checking to make sure. The "rough" looking incomplete 633 is a future restoration I have acquired all the parts I need now I just need to find time to put it together. Not sure about the tilly carb kits but I am sure they can be found somewhere on the web.

I did a quick check on ebay for the recoil and found 2 of them and 1 of the recoil cups to match.

[47JDG 65]

Well I picked up a new set of points today and it has a good strong spark now. I took the carb apart and cleaned it, then put it back together. The needle and seat isn't stopping the fuel flow so its either that or the float has a hole in it. Gas was coming out of the carb, so that's when I stopped and called it good enough for today. I am going to try to find a carb kit for it, hopefully they are still available. I have a problem with my steering also. When you turn the wheel everything turns as it should in the steering, all the way to the front of the tractor above the axle. Something is either loose or stripped in there because the wheels move slightly, and then when you can continue to turn the wheel there is no movement of the wheels. It looks like I will need to pull the engine to get a good look at what is going on there. Is this a common thing with this style of tractor? Hopefully something is just loose. Thanks

[TT-(Moderator) 1,131]

I have a problem with my steering also...... Something is either loose or stripped in there because the wheels move slightly, and then when you can continue to turn the wheel there is no movement of the wheels.

The lower steering shaft consists of three pieces; the fan gear, the shaft, and the tie rod attachment casting. Special "spirol" spring (roll) pins hold the cast pieces to the shaft and they are known for shearing. Many pins have been replaced with bolts, but they always seem to get loose/sloppy again without the proper spring pin. If you can stand the tractor up on the rear tires, you will be able to see what the problem is and hopefully repair it. Make sure you support the lower steering shaft when driving the roll pins in & out. The lower steering support (bolted to the frame just behind the fan gear) can't take too much abuse.

[47JDG 65]

Thanks for the reply TT. That is where the problem is located, everything turns but stops at the tie rod attachment casting, right above the front axle and below the engine. I can grab a front tire and turn it one way and the other tire turns with it, but the steering shaft does nothing. It must be a sheared pin. I figured it had to be something like this. That should be an easy fix. I will have to stand it up to see. Are the pin holes easy to locate? Thanks

[TT-(Moderator) 1,131]

The holes should be pretty easy to find. Personally, I would remove the lower shaft so it's easier to work with. You might also find that the holes need drilled for a bigger roll pin, which is much easier to do when the parts are off the tractor.

[47JDG 65]

Snapped this picture before I came in tonight after working on the 633. As you can see they have already made friends with each other. This will be the first night that old one has spent inside in who knows how long..

[buckrancher 2,679]

carb kits for the tillotson are NLA so it may be awhile before you locate parts in the mean time you can use a standard carter #22 carb.

from a K161 and air cleaner

I see you have the one part on the tractor thats normaly missing ( the tool box)

Brian

Edited December 2, 2012 by buckrancher

[47JDG 65]

Thanks Brian. I will probably just go that route then and hold onto the Tillotsen setup until I can find parts for it.

[JUSS10 250]

If you think the float is the issue, shake it, you'll hear fuel inside. If that's the case, and its a brass float it can be fixed. It's tough to get the fuel out but I have lit a candle and let it burn off before. That will also show you where the holes are. Once you find the holes and have most of the fuel out, you can clean it with some steel wool and solder the holes shut.

May be a good option if the parts for that carb are hard to find

[47JDG 65]

It's a plastic float, so I am sure its been rebuilt once before.

[JUSS10 250]

If its plastic then I doubt it's the float. Same thing applies though, shake it and you'll know. I've heard nail polish works to fix floats.

[47JDG 65]

I will give it a try. Really, nail polish don't dissolve in gasoline? You would think it would.

[JUSS10 250]

I've never tried it, but I think because its an enamel its tougher maybe?

[47JDG 65]

The float didn't look very good. It had some cracks, but I couldn't tell if it was all the way through or not. I will take it back apart and see if it has any fuel in it. I will try the nail polish trick if it is leaking.

[JUSS10 250]

I've never tried it, but I think because its an enamel its tougher maybe?

[buckrancher 2,679]

a note on the tillsotson carb. it's should be a model E12A on your 633 but you can use parts from other carbs in that model series

like E4A ,E9A, etc.the carb bodys are the same except for the venturi bore dia. so you can use parts like the float ,inlet needle and

seat ,gaskets ,jets etc. if you watch ebay they come up from time to time if you are lucky you may find a NOS one you can

rob new parts from to fix yours

the other common problem with these carbs is the throttleshaft ware if it's loose and sloppy you'll have idle problems

I made a new one for mine out of 1/4" brass rod which means I had to open up the throttle shaft bore to 1/4" I also

made a die to make the bowl gaskets for these carbs if you need one

Brian

[47JDG 65]

Well I fixed my steering problem today. It was the pin in the front of the steering lower shaft as TT thought. I was able to tap it out lightly pretty easily once I picked up the front end. I replaced it and it seems reasonably tight now. Tie rods could use some work as well, but for now its OK because I can at least turn the wheels and push it around my shop when I need to. I picked up a pretty decent set of 23 x 10.5 x 12 tires on nice wheels today as well. My tires are all shot so these will do nicely. I would like to go back to the duals eventually with good rubber, but for now I just need rubber that holds air. A local store has the 4.80 x 4 x 8's on sale right now for $19 so I will probably pick up a pair of them and some tubes for the front.

[47JDG 65]

Well I found out why the carb was leaking fuel tonight. There is a brass plug on the back side of the carb that is missing..must be it shook loose and just feel out. It has a plastic float, so it must have been rebuilt at one point. I took the carb off. I am going to try to locate some parts for it, or another one. In the mean time I think I will just go with a carter carb setup.

[47JDG 65]

I made a nice brass plug on my lathe tonight. It worked out well. I think I will just stick with running the tillitson carb. It seems to be a more challenging and original idea than just throwing a carter on it. I changed my oil in the rear end and engine tonight as well. I flushed out the rear end several times with diesel fuel because there was some water in it. I am looking forward to getting this old girl running!