groundhog47 347 #1 Posted November 16, 2012 My strength and back aren't near as was so am changin' rear hubs to in hub stub to help hold wheel when changing sets. Will get pictures later. Am using 7/16 x 2 cap screws with a flat and lock washer. So far the only problem is interference with hub set screw. Till I can get another set screw will use axel bolt and 4 studs. It was so much easier installing wheels. Am goin' to a wider tire and rim. SO What is/are the ramifications of installing a trhough hub stud (common auto configuration) vs. leaving with the standard lug bolt? Nothing has been altered other than direction so to speak and wheel weights don't get cthat close to new "studs" and haven't tried hub caps yet. Any pro/con input appreciated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,418 #2 Posted November 16, 2012 The problem with the set screw interfering with the bolt can be remedied by leaving both the washers off that bolt. Remove the set screw until after you have installed the bolt. I have converted all of my tractors to the bolts and lug nut setup. Should be no ramifications using larger tires and wheels. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,029 #3 Posted November 16, 2012 I've done this on a few tractors, I think I used 1.5" long bolts, full tread style and I add a few drops of loctite to the last few treads as I run them in, then I use 7/16" automotive lug nuts to hold the wheel on, this one I used chrome nuts they were cheap. I remove the set screw to install the ones that they are in the way, it's a good idea to check the set screws at least once a year anyway. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
groundhog47 347 #4 Posted November 16, 2012 You nailed it on the head, that's it almost exactly 'cept my hub set screw is exactly inline with that bolt hole> It really only interfers only that the lock and flat make it set back in the set screws head And you are right in that I didn't keep up with "tightness" and the wheel wandered about 2". my axel (and I know you already know) has a lot more inward wander and now I every time look at the exposed ends.Thanks for input. Maybe you can answer my next post. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,029 #5 Posted November 16, 2012 If you look close these hubs have 2 set screws, and one lines up with the bolt I installed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
groundhog47 347 #6 Posted November 16, 2012 Alright Bob and Kelly (saw you have two)THE washers are the fix ( DUH) just leave them off. Bob you haven't experienced any problems without a lock washer back up, have you, and Have you Kelly. Ain't even mornin' and can't wait to get it done!!! Thanks to you both! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,418 #7 Posted November 16, 2012 No problems without the washers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheel-N-It 2,968 #8 Posted November 16, 2012 Good Idea Gerry! And Kelly, thank you for the pics. This will be something I want to do next time I have to remove the wheels for any reason. Doing this will help me not have bad thoughts about the engineer who designed the rear hubs. :ranting: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
groundhog47 347 #9 Posted November 16, 2012 Good Idea Gerry! And Kelly, thank you for the pics. This will be something I want to do next time I have to remove the wheels for any reason. Doing this will help me not have bad thoughts about the engineer who designed the rear hubs. Hey Man, doesn't that look so user friendly, am like a kid in candy store and can't wait to finish, ditto on the bad thoughts. The only difference I find is larger lug nuts (11/16 vs 5/8) and that ought to mean stronger hold toward wheel, I hope. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SousaKerry 501 #10 Posted November 16, 2012 The only difference I find is larger lug nuts (11/16 vs 5/8) Better then that now a standard 4 way will fit and you don't have to get out the breaker bar. I run this setup on my puller for fast tire changes wheel weights and all. I used grade 8 socket headed cap screws (Allen bolts) cause that is what we have a work no washers with a little Locktite. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
krazy_horse 59 #11 Posted November 16, 2012 Ain't even mornin' and can't wait to get it done!!! Thanks to you both! Gerry, I think you also have the wheel horse sickness like all of us!! Your Bud, krazy_horse Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
groundhog47 347 #12 Posted November 16, 2012 The only difference I find is larger lug nuts (11/16 vs 5/8) Better then that now a standard 4 way will fit and you don't have to get out the breaker bar. I run this setup on my puller for fast tire changes wheel weights and all. I used grade 8 socket headed cap screws (Allen bolts) cause that is what we have a work no washers with a little Locktite. Would love to see the small tractors pull missed one two yrs ago in El Reno, Ok and DO enjoy it imensly. Kinda got this secondary idea from the race car guys and primarily from a member here, Steve, using longer studs through wheel spacer to widen stance (nice lookin' stallion has he). It looks as if we all sorta think parallel and just find it at different times, Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
groundhog47 347 #13 Posted November 16, 2012 Ain't even mornin' and can't wait to get it done!!! Thanks to you both! Gerry, I think you also have the wheel horse sickness like all of us!! Your Bud, krazy_horse Yes, Amen, 10-4, gettin' obsessive compulsive overdrive. Whoo, some nights I rerun the dreams about some of the "stuff" am workin' or plannin' to do on WH. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
