Spindle upgrade & wheel replacement

[wh22366 7]

I had zero luck finding a decent set of front wheel replacements for the calcium chloride eaten originals on my 551 so I decided to upgrade the spindles to 1" to accept 4 bolt hubs & rims and tri rib tires. The spindles and hubs came from Northern and the rims from another online supplier. A friend cut and bored the 1" units to slip over the original 3/4" spindle shafts, and I gave the new sleeves a spot of weld on the outboard ends to prevent them from turning (tried Loctite 640 first and had too much clearance for it to set up and hold). Here's the link to the site that supplied the idea:

http://www.p.f.engin....com/photo.html

Next up this winter is to modifiy the Tecumseh for electric start and wire it. I don't plan to repaint/restore it as it's pretty solid as is.

[groundhog47 347]

Man. I'm wantin' to do that. Hydro has his set up similar but I think he found 1" spindles, and mentioned an alternative like yours. Would ya post a picture when complete. I looked at those hubs yesterday at Tractor supply, still probably drool on them? The only other option seems rarev on a wheel horse as I think only the heavy hitters had the 1" axels, not sure though. Thanks

[Don1977 604]

Sound like you got it fixed. We need pictures!

I made a similar change when I had a bad wheel that would not keep the bearing tight. It ended up cutting my spindle. Needing a wheel, spindle and new tires I went the Northern route too. Made the change in 1989 have not had to do a thing to them since. I did paint the dust cap Wheel Horse RED.

[posifour11 723]

I'd interested too. It would be really cool to have the folks with experience restoring, to kinda do a how to for us new guys to give us ideas.

[Don1977 604]

I can tell you what I did don't have any pictures of the modification. I used 3500 # spindles and hubs with 6 ply rated trailer tires, and wheels. The hubs I used did not fit into the wheels until we turned down the out side diameter. The spindles I sawed 2" off the back then put them in the lath and drilled a 3/4" hole 3 1/2" deep then cross drilled a 1/2" hole between the bearing surfaces. I cut the original Wheel Horse spindles off to fit inside the new spindle a welded the back and the through the 1/2" hole to the old spindle. I also replaced the tie rods with Heim Joints around the same time as the old ball and socket joints kept coming loose.

[dbartlett1958 96]

I did something similar to my 416, but I found a set of hubs with 3/4 bearings that slip right over the original front spindles. The wheels are a 4 on 4 standard trailer wheel. Tires are 165/65 x 8.

The hub is by Azusa manufacturing, part #2296

[groundhog47 347]

David and Don: That is really a nice setup, Hydro (Gary) has done almost a similar set up with the 520H front set up I believe. Wh...66: I made another post askin' about changin' spindels and boreing axel hole to 1" (not to hijack yours, but to get input on done or not). Wh...66, David, and Don:Have you steered around enough to determine if turnin' radius affected/wheel interference.

I just can't get over how good it looks. I saw an older model that had 3/4" axel spindels with cone race and bearing (not certain what from), and decided not to go that way. How do you adjust wheel side play?

I did something similar to my 416, but I found a set of hubs with 3/4 bearings that slip right over the original front spindles. The wheels are a 4 on 4 standard trailer wheel. Tires are 165/65 x 8.

The hub is by Azusa manufacturing, part #2296

David: did you get the axel shaft there also?

[Hydro 131]

I did something similar to my 416, but I found a set of hubs with 3/4 bearings that slip right over the original front spindles. The wheels are a 4 on 4 standard trailer wheel. Tires are 165/65 x 8.

The hub is by Azusa manufacturing, part #2296

That would be the way to go if those bearings are still available. Unless you are building a FEL I don't think there is a need for the 1" spindles but the hubs are sure a nice addition.

[dbartlett1958 96]

Gerry,

The axle shaft is the original Wheel Horse part. No modification has been done to the tractor. I can put the original wheel back on just by pulling the cotter pin. Thes hubs are almost the exact length as the Wheel Horse wheel, so shimming is done the same way with a washer or shim as needed. I am working on a dust cover set up for the end of the axle and will report back when I perfect that.

These hubs also have ball bearings, rather than tapered bearings so the side play issue is not that critical.

David

[Tap53 57]

MOVED

[wh22366 7]

I didn't take pictures of the machined 1" spindle (sleeve) as it is the same picture as the web site at http://www.p.f.engin....com/photo.html . Just scroll down to the work ascribed to Doug H. I got the idea from Don1977's pictures I ran across on an earlier search. I cut the original 8.5" Northern spindle down to 4.75" in length for my application as I needed to ensure I kept enough room so the hub grease seal would not to hit the welded washer on the original splindle. My guess is that the length of WH spindles vary by model so you'd have to use your own judement on the proper sleeve length for your application. I carefully spot welded the end of the sleeve to the spindle so I could reverse it if I needed to. If I have an issue with the spot weld breaking, I'll cross drill the sleeves like Don1977did and weld them solid to the spindles.

I thought about using 3/4" sealed ball bearings in the hubs like dbartlett1958 did instead of the tapered rollers that came with them, but I didn't want to spend more $$ for bearings and I would have had to weld up and refinish my original spindles where they appear to have gone years without grease.

Finally, the steering. I used 8 x 3.75 rims - same as original. The new hub/tire assembly sits about a 1/4" wider per side giving me a 1/2" wider track. The turning radius might be slightly wider but nothing hits or rubs.

[wh22366 7]

One item I forgot to mention is the possible use of integral hub wheels. Once you've made the switch to 1" spindles, you could mount integral hub wheels on those spindles for a cleaner, somewhat more original look to the front wheels on your tractor (I gave the integral wheels on my wood splitter a hard look!). I stuck with the 4 bolts for ease of tire/rim removal in the future. Here's a look at the integrals on Northern:

http://www.northernt...uct_48405_48405

[Tankman 3,520]

I did something similar to my 416, but I found a set of hubs with 3/4 bearings that slip right over the original front spindles. The wheels are a 4 on 4 standard trailer wheel. Tires are 165/65 x 8.

The hub is by Azusa manufacturing, part #2296

Thanks for the post! Something I've been thinking 'bout for my 414-8 and/or my 416-8.

Don't know why, just something I want to do........another little project.

Stock spindle long enough? Did you have to run a die on (thread) the spindle?

[wh22366 7]

Tankman, using a lathe we cut the sleeves 1/8" longer than the spindle, bored them and ran an adjustable reamer through them with just enough clearance so they'd slide on the spindles. We had to leave enough spindle length for hub seal clearance to the welded washer. It appears in don1977's pictures of his front hub that he removed the washer(s), giving him more room on the spindle (and he welded the sleeves on anyway). I spotted the sleeves to the spindles just inside the end of the sleeves as there is no way to hold the sleeves and adjust the hub bearings (before inserting the cotter pins). My cotter pin holes in the spindles are right up against the snap ring grooves (but not in them). I think ultimately I'm going to weld the assemblies solid (like don did) as I don't plan on going back to the original configuration.

The conversion seems to let the tractor steer easier.

[dbartlett1958 96]

Tankman,

The stock axle is long enough for this hub. No modification needed. It is held on with a cotter pin and washer just like the factory wheel. It is almost the same length as the factory wheel, so only needed a washer or two.

I can go back to factory wheels in seconds just by pulling the cotter pin.

Here is what I did for a hub cover.

[groundhog47 347]

I didn't take pictures of the machined 1" spindle (sleeve) as it is the same picture as the web site at http://www.p.f.engin....com/photo.html . Just scroll down to the work ascribed to Doug H. I got the idea from Don1977's pictures I ran across on an earlier search. I cut the original 8.5" Northern spindle down to 4.75" in length for my application as I needed to ensure I kept enough room so the hub grease seal would not to hit the welded washer on the original splindle. My guess is that the length of WH spindles vary by model so you'd have to use your own judement on the proper sleeve length for your application. I carefully spot welded the end of the sleeve to the spindle so I could reverse it if I needed to. If I have an issue with the spot weld breaking, I'll cross drill the sleeves like Don1977did and weld them solid to the spindles.

I thought about using 3/4" sealed ball bearings in the hubs like dbartlett1958 did instead of the tapered rollers that came with them, but I didn't want to spend more $$ for bearings and I would have had to weld up and refinish my original spindles where they appear to have gone years without grease.

Finally, the steering. I used 8 x 3.75 rims - same as original. The new hub/tire assembly sits about a 1/4" wider per side giving me a 1/2" wider track. The turning radius might be slightly wider but nothing hits or rubs.

That's cuter than a new puppy, looks stouter and stroger, very nice!

[groundhog47 347]

Gerry,

The axle shaft is the original Wheel Horse part. No modification has been done to the tractor. I can put the original wheel back on just by pulling the cotter pin. Thes hubs are almost the exact length as the Wheel Horse wheel, so shimming is done the same way with a washer or shim as needed. I am working on a dust cover set up for the end of the axle and will report back when I perfect that.

These hubs also have ball bearings, rather than tapered bearings so the side play issue is not that critical.

David

David, I'm still perusin' the idea, you have it down though, mine would be the axel bolt intsead of cotter pin, So far all hubs I've viewed are 1/2-20 studs, is that what you have?

[groundhog47 347]

Tankman,

The stock axle is long enough for this hub. No modification needed. It is held on with a cotter pin and washer just like the factory wheel. It is almost the same length as the factory wheel, so only needed a washer or two.

I can go back to factory wheels in seconds just by pulling the cotter pin.

Here is what I did for a hub cover.

David, did your wheels come from Azusa?

[dbartlett1958 96]

Groundhog,

My wheel studs and nuts are 1/2 inch. The wheels and tires came from eTrailer.

David

[groundhog47 347]

Groundhog,

My wheel studs and nuts are 1/2 inch. The wheels and tires came from eTrailer.

David

Thanks David, couldn't get Azusa hubs from Azusa manf but found a dealer of their goods, the 2296 hub and 1004 wheel). How about offset, any steerin' limit interference?

[groundhog47 347]

I didn't take pictures of the machined 1" spindle (sleeve) as it is the same picture as the web site at http://www.p.f.engin....com/photo.html . Just scroll down to the work ascribed to Doug H. I got the idea from Don1977's pictures I ran across on an earlier search. I cut the original 8.5" Northern spindle down to 4.75" in length for my application as I needed to ensure I kept enough room so the hub grease seal would not to hit the welded washer on the original splindle. My guess is that the length of WH spindles vary by model so you'd have to use your own judement on the proper sleeve length for your application. I carefully spot welded the end of the sleeve to the spindle so I could reverse it if I needed to. If I have an issue with the spot weld breaking, I'll cross drill the sleeves like Don1977did and weld them solid to the spindles.

I thought about using 3/4" sealed ball bearings in the hubs like dbartlett1958 did instead of the tapered rollers that came with them, but I didn't want to spend more $$ for bearings and I would have had to weld up and refinish my original spindles where they appear to have gone years without grease.

Finally, the steering. I used 8 x 3.75 rims - same as original. The new hub/tire assembly sits about a 1/4" wider per side giving me a 1/2" wider track. The turning radius might be slightly wider but nothing hits or rubs.

I certainly do appreciate you havin' started this post; have been rollin' the idea around for a while and my way would have been a lot more expensive. Now all have to do is drop the dough.