K161 Governor Gear Movement

[rmaynard 15,767]

While disassembling my K161, I noticed that the governor gear can move in and out about 5/32" on the stub shaft between the block and the stopper screw. Is this normal?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,145]

Yes. Once everything is together and you 'synchronize' the governor, the gear will be held back against the block.

[rmaynard 15,767]

Thanks Terry.

[rmaynard 15,767]

I am bringing back this subject since the following observation has been made.

 

I have the engine back together, but I don't have the external governor arm attached. If the engine is sitting upright, and I rotate the crankshaft, all is well. However, if the engine is tilted toward the PTO side, the governor gear moves in that direction and locks up when the teeth of the gear contact the retainer screw.

 

Does this mean that the only thing that holds the gear back against the block is the cross shaft? Sounds to me like a busted gear in the making if the governor arm comes loose.

 

Since this is my first K161 rebuild, I am concerned about this. The K241's and K301 that I rebuilt did not seem to have this problem.

 

 

[buckrancher 2,694]

as long has the motor is rotating it won't catch kolher changed to the long screw pin thingy shortly after

but you can't change yours over to that because they also moved the screw hole location

 

brian

[rmaynard 15,767]

Problem solved and I didn't have to sleep on this one.

 

The parts list calls for an X-52-8 fillister head screw as the retainer. An X-52-8 is 1/4-20 x 5/8". The parts list does not call for any washers under the screw head. So, if the screw is turned all the way in, it hits the hub of the gear. The previous owner, or whomever serviced the engine last, installed a plain washer plus a lock washer under the head of the screw. This moved the end of the screw out so it did not touch the hub. So when reassembling the engine, I reinstalled the screw with both washers. But by having the two washers under the head, the screw was backed out enough that if the gear moved outward, the teeth would hit the end of the screw. Removing the lock washer allowed the screw to move in far enough that it would be aligned with the narrower portion of the teeth, yet not touch the hub, and no interference is encountered.

 

So, my conclusion is that this model requires an X-52-8 screw and one flat copper washer.

 

 

Edit:

 

Brian, I understand the different pin use in later models, but as the info above states, the previous owner caused the problem by adding an additional washer making the screw too short.

Edited March 31, 2013 by rmaynard