KEN NABER 28 #1 Posted November 8, 2012 Ladies and Gents In process of replacing coil and possibly stator. Whats the best way to get flywheel off. Possibly remove flywheel nut, heat a small amount with my propane torch, pry from behind with screwdrivers? Ready Freddy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
305 380 #2 Posted November 8, 2012 i'm not familiar with that motor , but i wouldn't do any prying. i suggest you get the correct puller so you do not damage anything. post a picture so we can see what is needed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
groundhog47 347 #3 Posted November 8, 2012 Being unfamiliar with that model, if two holes exist on face next to crank hole use a harmonic balencer type puller. If all you have is a long wide two jaw puller fit it on two flats if will clear between bearing plate and flywheel, but watch "boogering" threads on crank. if no pullers you might consider rental or purchase. But whatever keep your hand(s) away from in between pulling tool and flywheel as somtime they pop off quick. If no holes or not tapped/threaded wait her for another idea before hittin' crank end. You'll get it> 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KEN NABER 28 #4 Posted November 8, 2012 There are not any threaded holes on the face of flywheel to use my wheel puller. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheelhorse656 20 #5 Posted November 8, 2012 Take the nut off until the flat side of the nut is flush with the end of the crankshaft..... Then soak the flywheel and shaft with PB blaster.... then Get a large screwdriver and pry behind the flywheel pulling the flywheel out... (making sure the screwdriver is agianst the block and not anything it could damage) Then take a few swings with a hammer and they usually pop off... dont hammer down or up on the crank just striaght into the end the nut being there will keep you from messing the threads up or mushrooming the end. dont hit really hard either but dont be affraid to give it a good smack.... If you can't get it off this way heat the flywheel with torch for about 2-3 mins and reapeat the previouse process... Last but the mose invasive soke the crap out of it with PB blaster or ATF and acatone 50/50. heat up for about 10 to 12 mins with Maap gas ( yellow bottle) it gets it a bit hotter than propane and repeat process one..... If that doesent do it put a puller on it and slowly tighten it up and heat it and give the end of the puller a few hits and see if you can tighten it up more. alot of times if after a few weeks of this last process you will just have to cut the flyweel off the shaft and and get a new one. Hope this helps you out!! Most of the time though you will not have go beond step 1 or 2! just with methood 1 gets about 70% of flywheels off and the second methood gets 15% of those 30% that wont come off with the first methood . And the last step gets gets 10 precent of the ones that wont come off with step 2. and the ast five precent are those buggers that have to be cut off.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KEN NABER 28 #6 Posted November 8, 2012 Jordan Thanks! PB here we come! this site is the best! Ken Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
groundhog47 347 #7 Posted November 8, 2012 There are not any threaded holes on the face of flywheel to use my wheel puller. OOPs , looked like I was incorrect, aint this place wonderful with all the years and experience and lastly welcome :WRS: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SousaKerry 502 #8 Posted November 8, 2012 Hope this helps you out!! Most of the time though you will not have go beond step 1 or 2! just with methood 1 gets about 70% of flywheels off and the second methood gets 15% of those 30% that wont come off with the first methood . And the last step gets gets 10 precent of the ones that wont come off with step 2. and the ast five precent are those buggers that have to be cut off.... Ahhh empirical data an engineers dream.... Unless you believe Dilbert that 80% of figures are made up and the other 20% are lies Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KEN NABER 28 #9 Posted November 8, 2012 Guys and Gals put some heat on it , pb blasted all day, pry against engine tap on crank nut , does not move. got it hot not cherry hot , suggestions please. Ken Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,492 #10 Posted November 8, 2012 I usually tap in 2 large screwdrivers under the flywheel 180 degrees apart to wedge it out a little and then hit the loose nut with a brass hammer. Some are more stubborn than others so it may take a few hits. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KEN NABER 28 #11 Posted November 9, 2012 Guys and Gals well, got it off, as you may notice I drilled 3 holes and threaded them for 5/16 course and used a puller no heat. Now, where does the condenssor go? This is my first time with a suburban K91. Ken Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terry M-(Moderator) 2,204 #12 Posted November 9, 2012 I usually tap in 2 large screwdrivers under the flywheel 180 degrees apart to wedge it out a little and then hit the loose nut with a brass hammer. Some are more stubborn than others so it may take a few hits. I've done it that but with two flat wonder bars instead of screw drivers. then a mild couple of hits on the loose flywheel nut and usually it will pop off with no problem. never yet had a flywheel I couldn't get off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
groundhog47 347 #13 Posted November 9, 2012 Guys and Gals well, got it off, as you may notice I drilled 3 holes and threaded them for 5/16 course and used a puller no heat. Now, where does the condenssor go? This is my first time with a suburban K91. Ken Not sure if that's points in photo 4 and 5, can't maginfy, but if so and a 2 wire junction at points trace wires. It appears blue comes from mag coil so red/orange? must go to condenser. At any rate the coil has a wire to points and condenser, on mine it terminates at condenser first and then junctions off to terminate at points. Either way it's electrically the same. Shoulb be a condenser with little flat metral protrusion and screw at on end. Hope not to steer ya wrong again. And again that red/orange may be "kill" wire. I'll continue lookin. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
groundhog47 347 #14 Posted November 9, 2012 Does your point cover have a kill button on it. Found picture of mag in Kohler repair manual showing a single wire comin' from coil with an eyelet that goes to points and bridges off that to an open eyelet for condenser, sorta like mine (mag K-241), bet mine is bass ackwards! In picture 3 showing mag coil and retainer (in post # 11) something appears attached (if coil at 260 degrees) at 350 degrees that looks lika a wire with terminal end. Now I wanna know was this engine runnin' when ya got it, and are points SEVERLY pitted, course am probably talkin' to a mechanic anyway so no scarcasm or upidyness intended mechanic or lay person, but ya really got my curiosity up! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KEN NABER 28 #15 Posted November 9, 2012 Gerry no, it did not run, am workin in the dark. I really appreciate comments, not a mechanic myself, knew points need a condener, thought it might be behind flywheel with coil, kinda crazy to think that, point cover missing, tried to test coil with multi meter, then just got new one. guess i will get a condenser form ebay and put it in line, just got a cover for points off ebay for 7 bucks no kill button on that one, none on my c-141. Ken Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
groundhog47 347 #16 Posted November 9, 2012 Gerry no, it did not run, am workin in the dark. I really appreciate comments, not a mechanic myself, knew points need a condener, thought it might be behind flywheel with coil, kinda crazy to think that, point cover missing, tried to test coil with multi meter, then just got new one. guess i will get a condenser form ebay and put it in line, just got a cover for points off ebay for 7 bucks no kill button on that one, none on my c-141. Ken Sounds like ya have it aimed in right direction. AND you are right acordin' to what I read some older models had condenser behind flywheel, wish I could find that pic. again. Only motors I presume that had "kill" button on cover (like mine) were off equipment you didn't stay real close to I guess. This attached photo shows good silver condenser on wood, red condenser is off K-301s (with wire lead to coil)You may see dangling bridge wire off bottom off point box where condenser terminates and may see red "kill" button. This is not from a WH. Have a better Day Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KEN NABER 28 #17 Posted November 9, 2012 Gerry here it is Thanks Ken 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
groundhog47 347 #18 Posted November 10, 2012 Be danged, have seen that type condenser before and wondered why such a strangebracket, whoda thunkit. I know you are relieved. Good job , are ya gonna leave a new one there or "insulate off" the old lug and reterminate outside of the "dungeon" it was hid within? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Xjchief 128 #19 Posted May 15, 2013 so how does the motor run now im curious because i have the same problem my condenser is mounted to the motor mount on the side of the motor and attaches right to the points along with one wire from the coil. the other coil wire just is attached to the coil mount which is the stator right? the motor doesnt start very good at all. any info is greatly appreciated Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
