HorseFixer 2,012 #26 Posted March 18, 2014 Lookin good Jake! ~Duke Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jake Kuhn 1,554 #27 Posted March 18, 2014 Thanks duke! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jake Kuhn 1,554 #28 Posted March 19, 2014 Got the block cleaned up after being soaked in mineral spirits and blasted the head and oil pan. Will work on blasting the block tomorrow. Here's a couple pictures. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,131 #29 Posted March 19, 2014 I'm sure you already know this Jake, but after you blast the block, clean, clean and clean again to make sure you get all the media out of there. if the block is getting rebuilt then a hot tank at the machinists would be good. i like how you've taken it right down though, its the only way to do it right...... 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,125 #30 Posted March 19, 2014 Did Kohler use the Glyptal coating inside all their blocks? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shorts 182 #31 Posted March 19, 2014 If you plan on doing a lot of engine work find a used dishwasher to clean your engine parts in, use the dishwasher to get the parts good and warm so the pores open up and the soap can release all or the oils, solvents and dirt, remove the parts before the dry cycle and final rinse them with hot water and then blow dry with compressed air. The old style hot tanks with a caustic soda solution pretty much went the way of dino's because of the EPA, the modern way is to burn the petrol off in a hitemp oven then shot blast in an automated tumbler cabinet followed with a trip thru a dishwasher style pressure wash cabinet. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jake Kuhn 1,554 #32 Posted March 21, 2014 Got the motor and recoil rough blasted today, will glass bead it tomorrow and then clean it up. I would love to put it in the dishwasher, but don't think that would go over so well with my mom... and we have nowhere else for a spare. Also, a question for you guys...I pulled one of my rings off to check ring gap and it measured.011, do you think I should even bother changing them? Thanks, Jake 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fun Engineer 859 #33 Posted March 21, 2014 (edited) So why do you glass bead blast after sandblasting Jake? Does it smooth the casting? Your work is looking great Edited March 21, 2014 by Fun Engineer 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rexman72 210 #34 Posted March 21, 2014 jake nice work Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JC 1965 1,530 #35 Posted March 21, 2014 Wow Jake, You are doing a great job. Looks really good so far. Can't wait to see it when you finish. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shorts 182 #36 Posted March 21, 2014 (edited) If you install new rings the end gap should close up some due to no wear on the rings. My opinion is that you should always change the rings when you remove a piston from the cylinder, just break the glaze on the cylinder wall with a dingleball hone so the new rings can seat in to the cylinder. Edit; just find an old portable dishwasher to plug in and hook up to a hose for shop use, let it drain outside or down the floor drain, you are only using it for a final soap and water wash to remove the dirt from blasting and machining, all of the dirty oil and grease mess was removed with solvent and properly disposed of before you sand blasted the parts. Edited March 21, 2014 by shorts 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wishin4a416 2,191 #37 Posted March 21, 2014 Looks good Jake. Will look real nice when its Red!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jake Kuhn 1,554 #38 Posted March 21, 2014 So why do you glass bead blast after sandblasting Jake? Does it smooth the casting? Your work is looking great Thanks all...the glass bead doesn't really make it any nicer, I just use it to get the spots I miss. And for some reason, not sure why when I have glass beaded stuff parts don't rust as quickly as when I used the rough stuff I have. Jake Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rwilson 128 #39 Posted March 24, 2014 Looking good Jake. I may have to send a tractor out to you! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jake Kuhn 1,554 #40 Posted April 27, 2014 Had a good time today at the mentone swap meet, got to meet some new faces and see many others. I picked up a new aftermarket carb for the 57, and ended up scoring a brake kit for it from buckrancher....didn't think I'd ever find one...Thanks Brian! I need a gasket set and some ignition stuff for the motor and its ready to be put back together, I beadblasted it and had the valves done a couple weeks ago. Also started straightening the hood and bondo on it during spring break a couple weeks ago, it just needs a little more work on the front and it will be ready for primer, I don't have any pictures of it because its at the shop. Here's my brake kit and carb I got today....thanks, Jake 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,012 #42 Posted April 28, 2014 Looking good Jake and I agree with shorts, the small amount of work it would take to do the rings I would do it. While your there ck the rod bearings also. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Just my worth. ~Duke Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jake Kuhn 1,554 #43 Posted May 27, 2014 (edited) A little update on my engine. Beadblasted it a few weeks ago, and then sent it to the small engine shop for a valve job. And Last week I got a NOS gasket set and piston for it. Also purchased a NOS stator for it. I will need to order a set of new rings/ hone the cylinder and it's ready to go back together. I'm going to wait a few weeks though as my local swap meet is in a week and a half and you never know what you'll find there. Last year I got a k91 for $20 and had it running within a half hr. I also keep forgetting to take pictures of the hood, but I've only got a couple weeks of school left, and then I will have some time to get that finished up and primed to start sanding it. This tractor is getting close, and I'm hoping to finish it up for a show by the end of june, but I'll see what happens, rushing isn't always the best thing to do when your trying to make something nice. Thanks, Jake also forgot, I picked these up for a whopping $6! Edited May 29, 2014 by Jake Kuhn 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,125 #44 Posted May 27, 2014 Might have to start calling you the "Locator" Jake... 'cus you sure can find the bombs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jake Kuhn 1,554 #45 Posted June 14, 2014 Finally got the hood ready for primer today. Sure took a lot of work, but it is straight as can be now. Will prime this and the rest of the parts again sometime next week. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,131 #46 Posted June 14, 2014 its looking real good, Jake. Will be another very nice tractor when you are done..... I gotta say Jake you have a bunch of talent for these tractors at such a young age, and I'm always floored by how much knowledge and ability you have at finding parts for these older ones. You are becoming a force to be reckoned with!!!! Us older guys better watch out, i know I'm looking out!!! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jake Kuhn 1,554 #47 Posted June 17, 2014 Got some parts primed today. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,125 #48 Posted June 17, 2014 Hood looks smoove like glass, State Farm. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jake Kuhn 1,554 #49 Posted June 17, 2014 Hood looks smoove like glass, State Farm. Thanks craig! Its still got a lot of sanding to go before its smooth like glass, but it will get there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jake Kuhn 1,554 #50 Posted July 1, 2014 Got the frame final sanded and ready for paint. And also got the shroud, some brackets and the hood sanded and ready for another coat of primer and the final sanding. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites