stevebo-(Moderator) 8,330 #26 Posted October 12, 2012 Keep us updated when you start to spray ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clintonnut 126 #27 Posted October 21, 2012 Got quite a bit done yesterday and tonight. Welded up about 70 holes that used to be trim and engine bay accessories and then ground them all down. Next was spraying all inside and outside surfaces with Matrix Rose colored etch primer. Windchimes! Today, I started bodywork. Using the 3M brand filler is much better than bondo and a bottle of 2 part glazing filler, I was able to finish both rear doors and the drivers side front door. I didn't have the time to do the front fenders but they have filler on them. I used a 14" air-powered long block to get the filler knocked down flush then blocked it out by hand with a 14" block and 220 grit. Used the remaining etch primer on the drivers cab floor and door jambs. I am welding up all the seams on the rockers and lower door jambs for added strength. Started bodywork on the firewall. This is going to take some time: Welded up cowl completely. Still need to weld in reinforcement plates in 2 places on each side. Charlie 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lars 526 #28 Posted October 21, 2012 Nice work there Charlie.. ill bet it's going to be a realy cool car when your done whit it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,125 #29 Posted October 21, 2012 Geeze...good thing you're doing all the labor... RU keeping track of all the man hours Charlie? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clintonnut 126 #30 Posted October 28, 2012 Here's some progress! roof skin. Pd $30 for it and driprail needs replaced and the outer skin wasn't as bad as my original one (has 3 pinholes) I may try to find a better one. I really wish someone would repop these. Every truck needs them these days. Bought a pair of nice 63" chevy leaf springs out of a 2500 for $100. Burned out the bushings. Need to measure and get poly bushings. Finished my buddy's 4BT! The blue will complement the wheels for his rat. Made a nice bracket for use with the wilwood clutch master. 16ga steel with 2 gussets: Finished mud work on 3 doors, epoxy primed them, then shot 2K high build. Blocked out the high build. Needs probably 2 more coats of high build until it is smooth as glass. Little things came into my mind this week such as: eliminating stock e brake and using a floor mounted Lokar that would actually HOLD the truck buy anodizing dye (orange) and do valve covers and any other aluminum parts in engine bay RCI 15gal fuel cell in bed for bio diesel or fuel reserve. stainless brake hoses with wilwood prop valve and distribution block weld a hooking plate to each corner of the bed floor I also decided to ditch the etching primer for the rest of the truck. It is too complicated when it comes to compatibility. As long as my metal is clean, the epoxy primer will seal it from moisture. Charlie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clintonnut 126 #31 Posted November 4, 2012 Got quite a bit done on the truck! Friday, I spent another $870 on paint, then drove west to pick up my NOS 70s birdbath hood which I paid $50 for. From there I took the block, crank and rods to my dads friend who builds pro class diesel pullers and he's doing my machine work. Pretty excited to get the block back! Did cowl work. First I welded the cracks, then added plates over the cracks and at the windshield corners where there are gaps in the panels. Should make the cowl a lot more strong. Then, I mocked up the grille to IC rad support. Using 60s dodge truck headlight buckets makes it much easier because they have their own bracket which mounts flush to a rad support. I will have to recess the rad support headlight area to work with this setup. I think I will just sell the rad support and use a gasser one because I'm running non stock radiator, intercooler and A/C. No point to hack up a nice rad support for a specific application. I guess I'll sell the rad support. I do like the 70s grille much more than the 1991-1993. My buddy who is in college, his father is a toxic waste area cleanup coordinator. They have a surplus of equipment from sites so he gave me a next to new Ingresol Rand 80 gallon air compressor! It is double in tank volume and puts out 17 cfms rather than 3 cfms!!!! I can't wait to get it hooked up! NOS hood: Finished inside. Removed all seam sealer and body caulk and found surface rust starting under it and a couple holes under the dash behind the seam sealer. Glad I removed it and addressed the issues. Finished wire wheeling and DA sanding the floor and gave it a coat of epoxy primer inside! Hood was sanded and sprayed with high build primer as well as another coat on the doors. Then a quick mist of a guide coat: Hope to spray some Mango Tango saturday on door jambs, firewall, interior pillars and underside of hood! Charlie 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ken B 3,164 #32 Posted November 5, 2012 Lookin good Charlie. I'm glad you are going with the earlier style grille, looks much better! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clintonnut 126 #33 Posted November 5, 2012 Went down this afternoon and spent 4 hours total inside. Used most of the time to put away the mess of the past two days, organize stuff that was in boxes from the move and did a little metal work. Fixed a hack job on a wheel horse tractor hood. Had to graft in a patch. Then I paint stripped the P7100 after plugging off all the ports. I think I'll rebuild it myself. I'll purchase the tools and do it. If I keep the shims and clocking right on the DVs it shouldn't need flow benched but wouldn't hurt down the road. P pump looks amazing without paint. Then I mocked up the rad support again with different headlight buckets trying to figure how do do the cleanest easiest job. I think I figured it out... More to come later.... Finished my buddies manifold. It was a 6 off my engine, cut down, ported and a plate welded on and cracks v'd out and welded up. There were 4 cracks . Then hit it with 2000* paint. Center pillars look really nice!!! Rust under cowl inside. I think I'll just blast it and then graft in a small piece where the worst was or seam seal it and forget about it. Charlie 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimt1971 237 #34 Posted November 9, 2012 The 1980 Dodge grill would look good too. And being a one year only grill it would be unique. Jim Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clintonnut 126 #35 Posted November 12, 2012 UPDATE! The last week: Got bored in detention today.... Had to stay til 5:00 for being late to school once in the last month Christmas e'ry day Decided I must build one of these with a 4bt in it soon (within the next 5 years :bom: ) This weekend: Friday, Saturday, Sunday= 30 hours in the shop total! Here we go! Got the door jambs in bare metal, welded up the seams and skim coated the welds with filler, epoxy primer, ready for paint. NO pic sorry! Here's the floors today. I sandblasted for 2 hours and did all four cab mounts, floor bracing, and any seams on the bottom side. There was no rust except around cab mounts. Only surface though. Before: Wirewheeled dirt and paint off, wiped down and then forgot about the bottom side until today. Sandblasted areas: 1st coat of epoxy primer. Only have a quart left out of the gallon can. Probably need another gallon or two. I have primed the entire cab except roof and cab back and the doors. Then used rubberized undercoating and did all the seams to seal them up. Did 2 heavy coats, let flash dry then gave the entire thing another coat of epoxy. Should be able to forget about it and just powerwash it clean every once in a while. I like this better than black or bed lining. Looks more factory appearing and easier to see any chips, rust, dirt, grease, or oil leaks that could be a problem in the long future. I don't like seam sealer much because it cracks over time and it is a messy appearance and messy to apply. Sealed the inside panels: Nick's rat 2000* paint Had to turn it around to clear the valve covers: Made a unique exhaust stack to resemble a stove pipe elbow and then flared the top! It is 3" welded to a flat plate with a home made exhaust brake that will work on a pull cable Antique gauge for boost: Charlie 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ken B 3,164 #36 Posted November 12, 2012 Looking real good there Charlie. I see an older Power Wagon restore in your future. One of the best looking trucks ever created no doubt! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clintonnut 126 #37 Posted November 20, 2012 Here's the insanity of the last week. Cleaned up the shop some more and fooled around with the dune buggy a little: Got the Rat rod engine and trans together and started on the frame: Doors blocked down and 3rd coat of high build. Blocked them again and needs one more: FINALLY! Got a good roof skin for $40 from a local yard with a sawzall: Drilled out spot welds and sandblasted drip rail: Stupid local car: Charlie 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VinsRJ 721 #38 Posted November 20, 2012 Stupid is right..... Everything else looks RIGHT-ON! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
312Hydro 474 #39 Posted November 20, 2012 Wow, Just amazing work and skill there! Where do you find the time? I really like your build because it's like watching a street rod go together. That bodywork is top notch! :handgestures-thumbupright: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roscoemi 245 #40 Posted November 20, 2012 I don't have words for that mustang, at least not that can be posted here. I'm not a fan of that style Mustang, but really? :scared-eek: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clintonnut 126 #41 Posted November 21, 2012 Tinkered around today. Still have the intention of shooting some orange on friday. We will see.... Got the roof tacked in. Sandblasted skin: Had to graft a small piece in each side. A royal pain in the a$$ to get right. Think it turned out ok. Still need to do some work to it. Etch prime: Tacked: Pretty good alignment: I also decided today that I will shorten my 2wd long bed frame to make it work for the shortbed. I will then convert the frame to 4x4 and box it in the full length with custom welded in cross members front to back... That will be fun... Charlie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clintonnut 126 #42 Posted November 22, 2012 Well, I think I am clean enough to touch a keyboard and sit in a chair. Had to shower off a pound of dust, grit and grease just to feel somewhat decent again. Still hacking up paint taste haha. Had to help my dad swap his D60 front axles today in his 1977 dodge. Changed gear ratio by swapping the whole axle. Roof is bare metal now and so is cab back. Finished welding in roof skin, turned out pretty good. Have some warping but will see if I can improve it a little before some body filler. Today was definitely a long day... Will work on the truck again Friday. Charlie 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rollerman 290 #43 Posted November 22, 2012 The Dodge is looking good Charlie, still have you buggy too. I'm likeing the shop, looks spacious, is it heated? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clintonnut 126 #44 Posted November 22, 2012 Kinda... Have a torpedo and also a woodstove in the side room. Both running will get it into the 50s Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clintonnut 126 #45 Posted November 24, 2012 This consumed most of the day: Had to wire it into the panel, remove drier/regulator from old compressor, change fittings around, make a bracket to mount it, new filter in drier etc. LOVE the new compressor, No leaks, quiet, and can keep up with the sandblaster and any air tools. 17cfm. I made these to weld into the upper rear interior pillars for the shoulder belts. There were holes but no threads so I welded these in so I can make mom happy I have shoulder belts for at least 4 of the passengers. Firewall almost done: Sandblasted driprail and found 2 pinholes near where the new skin mated to the old skin. Was nervous about burning through too much and having to do a patch panel but the mig was nice and filled it right in: Sandblasted some of the back of the cab: Finished the other rear cab mount modification. Removed access cover that was caulked in, cleaned it out, ground the panel joints a little nicer then cut open the lower part of the cab mount box for easy cleaning and access. No more rusty rear cab mounts now.... Need to weld one crack in the rear panel, finish firewall, clean up bottom of driprail above windshield and then cab can be shot with epoxy primer in remaining areas, fill the roof areas and then it will be ready for paint. Getting closer..... Charlie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clintonnut 126 #46 Posted December 3, 2012 Aside from getting my dunebuggy running, troubleshooting the heater and working on the Model A, I actually got something done! The whole week was running around and having time for nothing but sleep when I got home. Started out saturday morning going to the junkyard and looking at my engine block at the machine shop. Finally got the trans cover. It was the best I have found in the last 3 months looking for one and then I ended up cutting off the base of it (some rot was present and it didn't fit right). The truck already had the large hump but it was hacked out from a previous trans swap. I grafted this in after sandblasting it and filling screw holes and the old shifter hole. Used hammers, dollies and heat and the result fits like a glove. Notice the rear part of the floor-hump area and how I had to stretch the metal to mate up with it. It turned out really nice! Besides the weld, you would think it was stamped that way! Now I have the bigger trans tunnel and the floor is back to a rigid state. Finished roof prep and primed that as well as the floor patch: Primed the rear seat belt hole where I welded in the pictured mounts from last week. Messed around with the dash. Stripped it to nothing, welded up unwanted holes and then test fitted it and cleaned up the dash edges for a better fit: Mocked up with 90s heater box. This is not going to work well. The controls are all mixed up. I have to go back to the junkyard to get the 70s AC box: Gasser rad support I got at the yard Saturday in comparison to the diesel one I had. I'm using the gasser one as the aftermarket radiator and intercooler will be easier to use and look less hacked up. Decided to ditch the firewall and start over. It will crack by the ebrake where there was filler so I'm taking the whole panel out, making a new one out of 16 gauge and welding that in and cutting the holes. Charlie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clintonnut 126 #47 Posted December 10, 2012 Got engine parts, block bored .040 with a sleeve in one cylinder. Genuine cummins, made in china headgasket! Mahle deep dish pistons that I plan to fly cut for valve clearance. Firewall almost done. Cut out the old, in with the new. Looks MUCH better! Finished stripping the final door and welded up all trim holes. Looking at this Dana 80: Hydroboost mocked up and leveled before I welded on the keyed index ring: Done: Still need to cut heater box hole. Integrated the steering column mount into the firewall as well. Will get more pics and updates tuesday: Messing around in the shop Charlie 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CRE1992 135 #48 Posted December 10, 2012 (edited) Looks great dude! Keep up the good work, I can't wait to see it finished! I am liking the new air compressor also. I could really use one like that lol. -Charles Edited December 10, 2012 by CRE1992 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rollerman 290 #49 Posted December 10, 2012 Thanks for shareing your progress Charlie :handgestures-thumbup: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clintonnut 126 #50 Posted December 10, 2012 Looks great dude! Keep up the good work, I can't wait to see it finished! I am liking the new air compressor also. I could really use one like that lol. -Charles My buddy has a champion 2 stage 60 gallon with next to know hours he wants to sell. Still has paint on the pulleys in places. 2 stage 5 hp with 14-18 cfm I believe. My IR compressor is 17cfm. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
