Wheel a matic help

[MR49 20]

Im not to knowledgeable on this hydro stuff. But it seems like my 1075 is super hard to push and some times the rear end doesn't spin at all. It does make a weird wine sound or like a creaking door or some thing. I haven't had it running much. but it does pull some, and it goes into reverse.

There seems to be a small leak also. There isnt much oil in her, would that make it not roll when the engine is not on?

Also I have no idea what kind of filter to put on it so when I decide to tear into it and fix the leak it would be nice to change it. As far as I have read it takes 10w30 Is that correct? Ill pass on the synthetics for now I just want to make sure the thing is gonna work before I put 30$ of oil in it lol.

Sorry for the newbie questions. But this thing is so cool I feel I kinda owe it to her to get it fixed.

Any help would be great thanks

[SousaKerry 502]

I'm sure others will chime in but, no it should not roll easily with the engine off. I know that some models had a tow valve on them you turn the valve and it easier to move but you can't more it more then about 3 MPH. As far as your fluid early tractors used AFT fluid IIRC it was F type. If you pull your dipstick and it is red you have ATF. The filter is a special Hydraulic only filter do not use an automotive type.

[MR49 20]

Well there was no red oil in it. Hmm there was a oil spot on the floor but it wasn't red either. Do you have a part number for that filter or can i just bring it to a auto store and replace it? Its all painted about 3 different colors, so i couldn't find the numbers.

Thanks for the info about it not rolling very easy. I was kinda worried.

[SousaKerry 502]

Lots of good info in this thread towards the end of the thread.

[Kelly 1,029]

The 1075 should have a tow valve but it is the early style, flip up the fender, on the left side from setting on the tractor, in front of the tool box on the back of the pump again left side is a nut/bolt head, pretty sure it is 1/2" but might be 9/16" give it about 1/2 to a full turn out that will make pushing it much easier, also be sure you don't have the parking brake set, lever right below the fan, right side of tractor.

The early tractors had ATF, but it could have been swapped over to motor oil.

[squonk 41,345]

Napa 1410 Fluid Power/Hydraulic filter

[Rock farmer 41]

Go to partstree.com and put your model number in under toro ride on mowers

It will lead you to the correct part numbers.

ATF stands for automatic transmission fluid, as used in cars.

Dextron III (3) is what I have seen recommended ( it's red).

ATF expands when heated, oil does not. So, you want to use the right stuff.

Oil filters are not the same as hydraulic fluid filters,

although they are much less expensive. The difference is the size

of the particles they filter.

As Kelly say, there is a 1/2" bolt head (use a1/2" wrench) under the seat cover that must be turned

Clockwise to run the tractor and counter clock wise (1/2 to 1 turn) to push tractor.

The bolt is between the hydro unit and the tool box near the top.

Hope this helps!

Joe

[MR49 20]

Wow thanks a lot guys you sure know your stuff. The old hf turn deal huh. Why couldn't I have thought of that. Oh well you sure helped a million.

One more question should I take the rear end completely apart and clean the old motor oil out if thats whats in it? Or can I just drain it and change it that way? I have not noticed it leaking any since I got her running today so id rather not tear into it until im ready for the complete restore this winter.

[Kelly 1,029]

if it has motor oil in it, drain it fill with ATF leave old filer on it (if filter comes off with out crushing it pull and drain then reinstall) run and drain again, add new filter and more ATF you should be good.

Leave filter loose when filling it will fill much faster, if the air can get out.