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Oska

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Oska

Hello from the UK !

I have recently become the proud owner of a Wheel Horse. It's in need of some care and attention but that's the fun and challenge isn't it ? I'm looking for some info and tips as my mechanical knowledge is a little basic.

Model. 1-0353

Serial. 133476

B-2431 Oevel Belgium

Kohler engine. K301s. 47421d

The wiring on the tractor will be my first port of call but I'm slightly confused. The ignition switch poles are labelled B G M S L. I understand what they indicate however the machine has points and condenser and I assumed that having a Magneto pole it shouldn't have points ? (breaker less ). Is this the wrong ignition switch ? Also there is no pole R for the rectifier or is that to be wired to the + side of the solenoid and thus battery

I've had the engine turning over via jump start ( sounds a real beast ! ). The points were moving but no spark from the spark plug. I've started to re wire but thought I would seek advice before going too far.

Many thanks

Pictures will follow

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Lars

Hey and welcome to RS Oska.. and u have a 12 hp kohler on it mabye a raider 12 pict will show.

u need another ignition switch to this tractor not sure but i think the # of it is 103990 u need to have power to the coil to have it run

and as soon as we know what tractor u have we might have a wiring diagram to it here at the forum.

and we also have a eurosection here

Lars

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Oska

Thanks for the welcome.

After a bit more digging around I think the model is a C-120 1974. The only decal on the tractor shows that it is 12 HP.

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Jake Kuhn

:WRS:

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neil

Welcome To Redsquare OSKA

Im just a few miles up the M5 from you at Bridgwater Nr Taunton

Good to have you on board :flags-wavegreatbritain:

You will get plenty of help here

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horsesaver98

:WRS:

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Oska

Wiring help.

Having bought a new ( hopefully correct ) ingnition switch as advised I have re wired the tractor up according to a C-120 wiring diagram. Now here's the thing, the switch appears not to be working ( or my wiring !) as when I connect the positive battery cable the engine turns over even with the key in the off position ! I'm presuming that there must be an earthing problem (?). Also no spark even with new points fitted.

Is there an earthing diagram I could follow ?

Coil and condenser tested and working fine.

I have by passed the amp meter straight to the battery

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Don1977

You have some wires switched. The wire from the solenoid switch should go to the single post on the switch. Sound like you have the power run to the ground lug. That will provide power to the all the other lugs on the switch except the start lug. Disconnect the switch with an meter set to test resistant and the switch turned on three lugs in the middle of the switch should be live. The ground is one double lugs on the other side of the switch from the start lug. The start lug only powers when turned to start. Hope this helps I don't know if you have the right switch.

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Oska

The switch I bought was a Toro 103990. The poles are connected thus R - rectifier. S - solenoid centre connection. B - positive side or solenoid where the positive side of the battery connects ( by passed ammeter ). I - positive side of coil. A -lights.

Does the ignition switch need to be earthed ?

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Don1977

The switch I bought was a Toro 103990. The poles are connected thus R - rectifier. S - solenoid centre connection. B - positive side or solenoid where the positive side of the battery connects ( by passed ammeter ). I - positive side of coil. A -lights.

Does the ignition switch need to be earthed ?

It should have a star washer that grounds the switch when installed in the dash.

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Oska

Cheers Don. I will go and have look at that. Do you think the rest of the wiring looks OK ?

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sorekiwi

Welcome to Red Square.

I may be off base here because I dont know your model of tractor very well.

Is your tractor equipped with a mag or an ignition coil. The earlier Kohlers did use a mag with a set of points and a condenser in the normal position. However most used a points/condenser/ignition coil combination. There is a different ignition switch for the two configurations - to turn off a mag powered tractor you have to ground the mag through the ignition switch. To turn off an ignition coil powered engine you just cut the power to the +ve side of the coil.

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Don1977

If you have it wired right I would say the switch is bad. The only lug on the switch with power should be the battery lug with it turned off. Your getting power to the start lug it turns over when connecting the battery cable with the switch off.. Haven't got the battery connected backwards?

Pictures of engine and wiring would help.

It has to be power going to ground some where for it to be that screw up.

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Oska

Good news. Finally got to the bottom of it, the starter solenoid was toasted and was stuck 'open'. My local lawnmower repair man happened to have one to match and once fitted the tractor burst into life. Starts and stops on the key. Going to overhaul the cutting deck now, find a dry spell and go mowing !

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neil

Congratulations on finding your problem Oska & good luck with the mowing although you may have to wait awhile for a dry spell

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Oska

Neil

The sun was beaming like myself as I decided to try out the mower. All was well until a unfamiliar rattle/grinding came from the mower deck. Turns out one of the bearings on the cutting blades had collapsed and is completely shot. I've posted details on the forum asking for sources to get a replacement. May replace all three. Any thoughts? Model 75-36XR. Serial 154009.

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groundhog47
http://www.rcpw.com/toro-bearings-bushings/24-1110.html This site has a bearing set shows to replace Toro 106084 and 106085 spindle bearings. My mower deck is 05-42ms02 also listing same for 05-48ms02 on a 76 c120. Ther are prob many sites with similar bearings and I couldn't find any with spindle shaft, so hope yours is great. Hope to have helped, great day,groundhog47

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SousaKerry

If you can get the numbers off the bearing itself take it to your local Industrial bearing supply house (not sure what you have in the UK) but they are far cheaper there then from Toro

p.s. even if you cant get the numbers off the old bearing take it in they can measure it and match it up to a suitable replacement, make sure to get a shielded bearing.

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