plowmaster 0 #1 Posted July 19, 2008 im starting to feel like a wet blanket with all these questions....but, how do i adjust the linkage to keep my tractor in range? wherever i put the lever it creeps up to full forward. do i tighten the large spring with the jam nut? i was going to experiment but i thought id ask here first thanks guys jon. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
plowmaster 0 #2 Posted July 19, 2008 its a 69 charger 12 thanks again! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,147 #3 Posted July 19, 2008 How's that for service? B) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
plowmaster 0 #4 Posted July 19, 2008 very nice. i did go ahead and DL the manual from toro, but i havent had a chance to look at it yet as my PC hates PDF'S and i have no ink in my printer. soon though, soon. you guys are a great help Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kj4kicks 154 #5 Posted July 19, 2008 TT's a great source of info and pics ! Another thing you may find is that the cross shaft sometimes gets rusted inside the friction collar. There is also a square key in there to hold the collar staitionary. Take a look at the left side (outside) of the frame where that shaft will have a tab and a bolt. If the tab is broken off, and turning when you move the directional handle, then it all needs to come apart to be freed up. Go ahead.... ask me how I know that LOL. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,147 #6 Posted July 19, 2008 Go ahead.... ask me how I know that LOL. :horseplay: :horseplay: :horseplay: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jerrell 1 #7 Posted July 22, 2008 B) Hey TT, do you have the same info for a c175 hydro, my lever keeps slipping back to neutral so have to hold power to it all time, thanks in advance Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,147 #8 Posted July 22, 2008 The Eatons are much easier to adjust the friction (and neutral) because it's located under the seat and is accessible through a hole in the rear fender. There is a friction washer on the DCL cam plate. To increase the friction, tighten the nut in small increments while testing the operation of the DCL. Do not overtighten, and do not apply any lubrication in this area. Here's a drawing: (red-colored nut) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
plowmaster 0 #9 Posted July 22, 2008 TT's a great source of info and pics ! Another thing you may find is that the cross shaft sometimes gets rusted inside the friction collar. There is also a square key in there to hold the collar staitionary. Take a look at the left side (outside) of the frame where that shaft will have a tab and a bolt. If the tab is broken off, and turning when you move the directional handle, then it all needs to come apart to be freed up. Go ahead.... ask me how I know that LOL. i did notice today that that tab you speak of has been welded. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kj4kicks 154 #10 Posted July 23, 2008 Let me clarify. Yes, the tab is supposed to be welded to the shaft, and then there's a bolt that holds it to the side of the "tunnel". That's what holds the shaft still so the friction thingy can do it's thing. The problems begin if that weld is broken, allowing the shaft to rotate. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
plowmaster 0 #11 Posted July 23, 2008 actually the only reason i mention it, is that it dosent look factory, unless its a monday or friday mower. i certianally wouldnt lay claim to that weld. there isnt a whole lot of welds on these tractors, is there? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
