Anglo Traction 761 #1 Posted June 13, 2012 Just Got to a point on my 74 C-120 project where I want to set the Steering up. I have adjustable Rods. What Setting do you initially use for 'Tow In'?. I'm thinking it may need about an 1/8th of an inch to Track reasonably on smooth ground. Thanks in anticipation. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #2 Posted June 14, 2012 Now there's a loaded question that I bet no-one has an answer to... Personally I would aim for somewhere between 1/8 toe-in to 1/8" toe-out. Since you have nice new tie-rod ends, I'm guessing any wear or slop in your steering system is going to be in the spindles, and this is probably going to want to cause a little toe-in as a result of any disturbances. So 1 point towards a hair of toe-out statically. Also since a Wheel Horse spindle has no ackerman angle built into it, then both front wheels steer the same amount. A car has some Ackerman angle built into its geometry, so that the outside wheel will turn a little more than the inside tire (which compensates for the wider circumference of the turning circle of the outside tire). So normally with no ackerman effect you want a little static toe-out to compensate. I reality I'm not sure it makes a difference at 5 mph. I'm also betting that your front axle has a little wiggle in the frame, which is probably more than any slop in any reasonably maintained spindles. That probably negates any steering effects from static toe-in or toe-out. Myself I'd just aim for straight ahead... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,029 #3 Posted June 14, 2012 Wow Mike I think I got a head ach from reading that, just kiddin, I aim for straight ahead, I set my steering wheel were I want it, and use a straight 2x4 lined up with the rear tire on each side and measure in to the front tire from there, like Mike said a little slop here and there will make the 1/8" mean nothing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,583 #4 Posted June 14, 2012 I replaced a bent spindle and broken tie-rod on my B-100 and found that afterwards, the tractor was very hard to steer. After reading a thread about toe-in and it's effect on steering, I thought that I would give it a try. I set mine to 1/8" toe-in and it made all the difference in the world. It was literally like the difference between manual and power steering. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #5 Posted June 14, 2012 I'm with Bob on this one - I set the toe-in on one of my tractors at 1/4" and the result was so good I changed the others to match. Not only do they steer easier, but I reduced the turning circle by a smidge as well! Not sure why it worked out that way, but it did. Duff :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #6 Posted June 15, 2012 OK, I'm surpriised that it made that much difference. What was the amount of toe-out before you guys changed it to toe-in? I have to admit that I have never "back to back" tested toe settings on a Wheel Horse, if its been some where around 0, +/- 1/8 inch I've left it alone. I do have a Wheel Horse that I have just swapped a John Deere 317 axle and spindles in to. The JD steering arms have quite a bit of ackerman built into them and I am anxious to see what effect that will have. It will be a while before that one is drivable though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #7 Posted June 15, 2012 after rebuilding the steering/front ends i set both the 1054 and 1057 to 1/4 toe in and they both steer very nice. i did notice a nice difference from the initial straight up adjustment that they were at first when i moved them 1/4 toe in, so i left them at that....... the originals are all non adjustable, they steer ok, i have no idea where they are measurement wise....... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo Traction 761 #8 Posted June 15, 2012 Thanks very much Guys for the responses. I'll take onboard all you have said here and maybe run a few trials at various settings. I do have very little play in the Spindles - Axle. Axle Pivot is new and shimmed to 0.010" clearance fore and aft axle play. I'll check my Raider 12 with Fixed length Rods to see what the setting is (all in good condition). At the end of the day, as long as it doesn't veer sharply when I let go of the Steering wheel to pass my beer to my other hand without spilling it, I'll be happy!. Thanks again 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #9 Posted June 15, 2012 At the end of the day, as long as it doesn't veer sharply when I let go of the Steering wheel to pass my beer to my other hand without spilling it, I'll be happy!. And thats what its all about!! :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
infernus 8 #10 Posted July 19, 2012 Just out of curiosity, where are you guys measuring from? Inner rim lip or the center of the tire? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smoreau 658 #11 Posted July 19, 2012 Measure at any point on the tire that makes it easy to get the same points front and rear of the tire. I have good luck with toed in 1/8" as to toed out and "0" . Toed in just a little adds stability to the tractor and most older cars used the thing for handling. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites