Steering wheel removal on a D

[tommyg 152]

OK, I give up. How the heck do you get the steering wheel off a d-180? I've got to get to my implement valve by removing the dash metal, but I can't get the steering wheel off to remove the metal. Pryed out the plastic cover, removed the nut, then what? It's just stuck! Pulley puller doesn't help because there's nothing to grab on to. Is it a splined shaft? Threaded? Anyone?

[coldone 35]

Its a splined shaft. Here is a vid from joes outdoor power. Pay attention to how he puts the nut back on, a bolt in the hole, and a socket over it. If you put the puller directly on the hollow shaft it will mushroom the shaft. Ask me how i know,

The ford has a ross steering gear just like the D

[tommyg 152]

Holy smokes. Where the heck to I find a puller like that! The bolt on the end was good advice. Thanks. Now I'm gonna have to figure out how to place something behind the wheel to hook on to. Thanks for the video!

[coldone 35]

The flat piece behind the steering wheel that he pulls on is called a bearing seperator. One of those auto stores that rents out tools should have one.

[Trouty56 565]

I made something similar out of angle iron. Took a few days but did get 2 wheels off. Never thought of Autozone....

[wheeledhorseman 574]

Watching with great interest as I have to get the wheel off my 'D' sometime to sort out the bush.

Andy

[1maidenfan 202]

The D steering wheels are such a pain My 18 auto I ended up cutting off and now waiting on a replacement one from jdog.

I like the video and I do belive I have one of those, will be trying that later today.

I made a flat piece of stock to slide under steering wheel to put a puller on but it didnt work either? :eusa-think:

[1maidenfan 202]

By the way tommyg :wwp: :ROTF:

[tommyg 152]

Pictures of what? My disfunctional implement valve? Me beating the living daylights out of my steering wheel? (That wouldn't be pretty.) I'm not even sure how to upload pictures. Maybe someone could point me to a link that would help. When I click on "image" it asks for a URL.

Coldone, there's an Autozone just down the street. That's not a bad idea. I tried a makeshift one last night. Didn't work. The bugs flying around my lightsource got the best of me. Have an idea for one I can make out of bar stock. Might give that a try tonight.

Thought for the day... "You know you're in trouble when you have a problem getting access to your problem."

[coldone 35]

Thought for the day... "You know you're in trouble when you have a problem getting access to your problem."

Thats pretty much anything mechnical. I wish all engineers had to work on what they designed at least once. They would have to have time constraints, people wanting to talk to them, phone calls, and not all the tools they need!

[wheeledhorseman 574]

I'm not sure if there's some fundamental difference between a D-200 and a D-180 but I certainly swapped out the implement control valve unit without removing the steering wheel.

As I remember (it was a while ago now) I removed the battery supports and the side panel closest to the implement valves to gain access. Removed the lower dash panel and removed the knob for the parking brake. Undid the six pipe connections then thee four bolts that hold the panel that the implement valve unit is bolted to and withdrew the implement valves still attached to the panel.

The main dash panel flopped down a bit but held up ok on the remaining side panel but I did use a bit of wood wedged in on the unsupported side so nothing got strained while I painted the panel and swapped the valve units over.

Here's the old valve unit still attached to the panel - replacement beside it.

And no steering wheels were harmed in the process as I still have to get the thing off sometime to sort out the bush but I've just ordered one of those bearing / gear puller / splitter thingies.

With the valve unit off and the spool cap and spring removed it should be possible to use a soft drift to get it back to neutral - doesn't matter if you can't rotate it back to where it would normaly be, just neutral will do.

Offer still stands if it's really seized solid and you can't get a replacement then I can send you the section of mine that's got no lever but still moves and is in neutral. Takes ten days or so to cross the Atlantic, clear customs and get delivered in the US.

Andy

[JamesBe1 82]

Its a splined shaft. Here is a vid from joes outdoor power. Pay attention to how he puts the nut back on, a bolt in the hole, and a socket over it. If you put the puller directly on the hollow shaft it will mushroom the shaft. Ask me how i know,

The ford has a ross steering gear just like the D

[media=]

I never thought of using the impact driver to turn the puller. Not sure if I want to, it's very easy to break something with those kinds of forces.

I picked up a flywheel pulling set from ebay a couple of years ago during a kohler rebuild. I didn't think I would ever use it after that, but it has come in handy a couple of times. It has the bearing separator parts in it. I am sure it is going to come in handy when I rebuild my other D.

[1maidenfan 202]

Well...I tried my bearing splitter on mine tonight and... no luck All it done was flattened the nut and stripped the threads off the shaft

Well I guess I know that wheel is not coming off any time soon

Guess I will put the center cap back on and go with it.

Maybe some day it will jar itself loose. :confusion-shrug:

[tommyg 152]

Well, in the end, Andy was right. You don't have to remove the steering wheel to get out the implement valve. Once I removed the side plate and the connections to the PTO lever, I was able to get to the fittings. Fortunately, none of them were overly tight. Otherwise, I'm not sure that would have worked. So, I learned two things. The other was that I'm not the only one who has a stubborn steering wheel!

For those of you following my post regarding high pressure readings, I have some good preliminary news. Check it out!

[JamesBe1 82]

Well...I tried my bearing splitter on mine tonight and... no luck All it done was flattened the nut and stripped the threads off the shaft

Well I guess I know that wheel is not coming off any time soon

Guess I will put the center cap back on and go with it.

Maybe some day it will jar itself loose.

Did you soak the splines in any penetrating fluid before you started? Also, did you use an impact driver as in the video? Sorry to hear about your difficulty. I hear about more steering wheels that won't come off than about those that actually do. Even some of the experts here can't get theirs off, so I guess you are in good company.

[coldone 35]

Well...I tried my bearing splitter on mine tonight and... no luck All it done was flattened the nut and stripped the threads off the shaft

Well I guess I know that wheel is not coming off any time soon

Guess I will put the center cap back on and go with it.

Maybe some day it will jar itself loose.

I had to cut mine off on a snapper 1650 because i mushroomed the end of the shaft. I used a side grinder with a cuttoff wheel. I split the hub in 3 places being careful not to cut into the the tube. I used a cold chisel to finish breaking open the cuts from the top down. After I got a replacement steering wheel I just tapped the inside of the tube with a 3/8 tap. Put the new wheel on and a bolt and washer in the hole. Works just fine.

[otrelwood 32]

i bought a $19 bearing puller from harbor freight just for removing my subborn wheel worked great

[wheeledhorseman 574]

I don't feel so bad now about avoiding the issue of removing the steering wheel and having to work round the fact like this when it came to painting the dash.

The puller I've ordered should arrive in a few days so I'll let you know if my wheel will come off or not. It's worth a try but if it won't then I'll just live with it the way it is.

Congrats for your other news re the implement valve Tommy.

Andy

[JamesBe1 82]

I like the idea of using plastic wrap to mask stuff off with. I'll use that in the future.

Andy, you might want to start soaking the steering wheel shaft in penetrating fluid starting now. The consensus around here is that atf/acetone is the best thing to use, but how good that is for long term soaking due to the volatility of the acetone might be a point to ponder. At any rate, you'd be doing yourself a favor if you started spraying as soon as possible.

[1maidenfan 202]

Well...I tried my bearing splitter on mine tonight and... no luck All it done was flattened the nut and stripped the threads off the shaft

Well I guess I know that wheel is not coming off any time soon

Guess I will put the center cap back on and go with it.

Maybe some day it will jar itself loose.

Did you soak the splines in any penetrating fluid before you started? Also, did you use an impact driver as in the video? Sorry to hear about your difficulty. I hear about more steering wheels that won't come off than about those that actually do. Even some of the experts here can't get theirs off, so I guess you are in good company.

I soaked it for 3 days in pb blaster, no luck. 3 more days with some stuff I picked up from work, no luck then I tried the atf but didnt have the acetone so I mixed it with brake fluid and again no luck.

I believe it is NOT ment to be removed. It's on my loader D 200 and bearing is sloppy but will have to deal with it for now.

Next step...POWER STEERING!

[1maidenfan 202]

Well...I tried my bearing splitter on mine tonight and... no luck All it done was flattened the nut and stripped the threads off the shaft

Well I guess I know that wheel is not coming off any time soon

Guess I will put the center cap back on and go with it.

Maybe some day it will jar itself loose.

I had to cut mine off on a snapper 1650 because i mushroomed the end of the shaft. I used a side grinder with a cuttoff wheel. I split the hub in 3 places being careful not to cut into the the tube. I used a cold chisel to finish breaking open the cuts from the top down. After I got a replacement steering wheel I just tapped the inside of the tube with a 3/8 tap. Put the new wheel on and a bolt and washer in the hole. Works just fine.

Thats a good thought, I have another steering wheel that goes on my 18 auto project. Might think about trying that before I just give up and let it be.

Thank you.

[wheeledhorseman 574]

I like the idea of using plastic wrap to mask stuff off with. I'll use that in the future.

Andy, you might want to start soaking the steering wheel shaft in penetrating fluid starting now. The consensus around here is that atf/acetone is the best thing to use, but how good that is for long term soaking due to the volatility of the acetone might be a point to ponder. At any rate, you'd be doing yourself a favor if you started spraying as soon as possible.

At the moment James I'm giving some thought as to what I'll soak it with. I've come across the rave reviews about acetone/ATF mix both here on RS and elsewhere. I have both in the workshop but haven't got round to trying it yet. I can see the logic - ATF for its lube properties, acetone to thin it and get it to creep into the crevices. However, like proprietory brands of penetrating fluid the down side I can see is that the solvent tends to evaporate pretty quickly leaving you with mainly just the lube agent.

I guess we've all seen the 'test results' in which acetone/ATF was compared with other proprietory brands but I came across an interesting twist to the story line which has passed from one forum to another to another etc. The original test was reported in the 2007 April / May edition of 'Machinist's Workshop' and a guy with an actual copy of the magazine subsequently pointed out that a typo had crept into the info circulating on the forums. Apparently the mix used and reported in the magazine test was acetone / power steering fluid. I don't know how true this is but it would be interesting to find out. Unlikely I guess, but if anyone out there has a shelf with back copies of 'Machinist's Workshop' then I'd love to know. In reality I think the two liquids are broadly similar though I suspect contain different additives.

Another 'traditional special recipe' I came across is 1qt ATF 1qt diesel 1 cup brake fluid - so I can see where 1maidenfan is coming from with the brake fluid bit.

And so to the diesel bit in the above concoction. I've been using diesel as a penetrating fluid successfully for many years. It combines oilyness with an ability to creep along rusty threads and doesn't evaporate easily or pose a vapor flamabilty issue. I was intending to use diesel on the steering wheel splines but now I'm tempted to mix a bit of everything in and see what happens. Just a couple of weeks ago I freed off a two-stroke engine which had apparently seized up despite being dry stored for a number of years. Spark plug out, a bit of diesel in, and after soaking for an hour or so it was turning over again as if it had never been stuck.

I'll let you know how I get on with the steering wheel and what I used but you're right James I'd better get the soaking process under way.

Sorry for another rambling post

Andy

[1maidenfan 202]

I like the idea of using plastic wrap to mask stuff off with. I'll use that in the future.

Andy, you might want to start soaking the steering wheel shaft in penetrating fluid starting now. The consensus around here is that atf/acetone is the best thing to use, but how good that is for long term soaking due to the volatility of the acetone might be a point to ponder. At any rate, you'd be doing yourself a favor if you started spraying as soon as possible.

At the moment James I'm giving some thought as to what I'll soak it with. I've come across the rave reviews about acetone/ATF mix both here on RS and elsewhere. I have both in the workshop but haven't got round to trying it yet. I can see the logic - ATF for its lube properties, acetone to thin it and get it to creep into the crevices. However, like proprietory brands of penetrating fluid the down side I can see is that the solvent tends to evaporate pretty quickly leaving you with mainly just the lube agent.

I guess we've all seen the 'test results' in which acetone/ATF was compared with other proprietory brands but I came across an interesting twist to the story line which has passed from one forum to another to another etc. The original test was reported in the 2007 April / May edition of 'Machinist's Workshop' and a guy with an actual copy of the magazine subsequently pointed out that a typo had crept into the info circulating on the forums. Apparently the mix used and reported in the magazine test was acetone / power steering fluid. I don't know how true this is but it would be interesting to find out. Unlikely I guess, but if anyone out there has a shelf with back copies of 'Machinist's Workshop' then I'd love to know. In reality I think the two liquids are broadly similar though I suspect contain different additives.

Another 'traditional special recipe' I came across is 1qt ATF 1qt diesel 1 cup brake fluid - so I can see where 1maidenfan is coming from with the brake fluid bit.

And so to the diesel bit in the above concoction. I've been using diesel as a penetrating fluid successfully for many years. It combines oilyness with an ability to creep along rusty threads and doesn't evaporate easily or pose a vapor flamabilty issue. I was intending to use diesel on the steering wheel splines but now I'm tempted to mix a bit of everything in and see what happens. Just a couple of weeks ago I freed off a two-stroke engine which had apparently seized up despite being dry stored for a number of years. Spark plug out, a bit of diesel in, and after soaking for an hour or so it was turning over again as if it had never been stuck.

I'll let you know how I get on with the steering wheel and what I used but you're right James I'd better get the soaking process under way.

Sorry for another rambling post

Andy

It's not rambling, it's valuable information. :bow-blue:

[JamesBe1 82]

I like the idea of using plastic wrap to mask stuff off with. I'll use that in the future.

Andy, you might want to start soaking the steering wheel shaft in penetrating fluid starting now. The consensus around here is that atf/acetone is the best thing to use, but how good that is for long term soaking due to the volatility of the acetone might be a point to ponder. At any rate, you'd be doing yourself a favor if you started spraying as soon as possible.

At the moment James I'm giving some thought as to what I'll soak it with. I've come across the rave reviews about acetone/ATF mix both here on RS and elsewhere. I have both in the workshop but haven't got round to trying it yet. I can see the logic - ATF for its lube properties, acetone to thin it and get it to creep into the crevices. However, like proprietory brands of penetrating fluid the down side I can see is that the solvent tends to evaporate pretty quickly leaving you with mainly just the lube agent.

I guess we've all seen the 'test results' in which acetone/ATF was compared with other proprietory brands but I came across an interesting twist to the story line which has passed from one forum to another to another etc. The original test was reported in the 2007 April / May edition of 'Machinist's Workshop' and a guy with an actual copy of the magazine subsequently pointed out that a typo had crept into the info circulating on the forums. Apparently the mix used and reported in the magazine test was acetone / power steering fluid. I don't know how true this is but it would be interesting to find out. Unlikely I guess, but if anyone out there has a shelf with back copies of 'Machinist's Workshop' then I'd love to know. In reality I think the two liquids are broadly similar though I suspect contain different additives.

Another 'traditional special recipe' I came across is 1qt ATF 1qt diesel 1 cup brake fluid - so I can see where 1maidenfan is coming from with the brake fluid bit.

And so to the diesel bit in the above concoction. I've been using diesel as a penetrating fluid successfully for many years. It combines oilyness with an ability to creep along rusty threads and doesn't evaporate easily or pose a vapor flamabilty issue. I was intending to use diesel on the steering wheel splines but now I'm tempted to mix a bit of everything in and see what happens. Just a couple of weeks ago I freed off a two-stroke engine which had apparently seized up despite being dry stored for a number of years. Spark plug out, a bit of diesel in, and after soaking for an hour or so it was turning over again as if it had never been stuck.

I'll let you know how I get on with the steering wheel and what I used but you're right James I'd better get the soaking process under way.

Sorry for another rambling post

Andy

It's not rambling, it's valuable information.

I agree. I happen to like Andy's ramblings.

Ramble on my friend!

[Hodge71 664]

I know how you feel Tommy. I tried to get my wheel off my 18 auto during its resto and gave up. I hade soaked it everyday for weeks with acetone/tranny fluid and put my 12 ton hydrualic puller and huge bearing seperator on it. It wouldnt budge a .00001 of an inch. If I remember James quote in my thread at the time "its good it didnt come off with 24000 pounds of force on it, it probably would have burned up on re-entry" Sometimes they just wont come off.....