GT-14, 90-2062, a few general hydraulic comment/questions

[gin 1]

Hi,

I recently have been doing a lot of work around the yard moving dirt, mulch, compost w/ my 69 Gt-14 and ARC loader. I'm hoping to get some pic's in but a little tricky finding the time w/o dirty hands, kids, wife ,etc, as lot of you probably know. I'm having lots of fun just reading the forums, thanks for all the good stuff around. I have a few comments that I believe might help and a few questions.

1) tow valve

it's located on the top of the tranny under the seat w/ a tension spring threw it. It doesn't unscrew but would spin indefintely if the tension spring wasn't in it. The Ideal position while driving the tractor is 6pm and noon for towing ( say the gas tank center is 12 noon and toe hitch on the rear is 6pm).

2) hydraulic hoses

they ultimately enter the transmissions and controls w/ a O-Ring Boss (ORB) Adapter #5 which is then adapted to a SAE 37° Flare (JIC). The lines should not be confused w/ standard 1/4", 3/8" etc hydraulic line

Q: Can you close the hydraulic circuit on the transmission? i.e. disconnect all hoses and put ORB plugs on the tranny or should that circuit be connected via a single hose( send/return ;continuous flow)

Q: on the 69' GT-14 the hydraulics have 2 connectors one on top and and the other on the rear of tranny, which is the send / return.?

Q: Is there supposed to be down pressure on the cat 0 3pt hitch using the standard welded cylinder & control , if not would a new bi-directional cylinder or a different control be needed?

Q: Does any1 know where to get the 2 flat seals / rings on the 1/2" hydraulic control stem?

thanks for your time,

If my 2 comments help or if if you think there is any errors please let me know and any comments on the questions would be great.

thanks

[meadowfield 2,595]

Hi, welcome to the group.

On my 72' GT14, I can just block both lift ports with blanking bolts and o rings.

The relief valve should take care of things....

On the cylinder there is lift, lower ( with pressure ) and a float position ( no pressure)

Mine is a sundstrand piston piston so can't easily answer your other questions - note the service manual is on the toro site for download (16MB)

Mark

[Ole MN 11]

:WRS: I have 3, 70 GT 14's Love em. I did buy a set form Indy w h on this site. I need to but more though. I have been looking for these as well and found simular seals but but have not yet pulled the trigger and bought them. If your in a hurry try Indy w h, or if you find another source let me know. I will try and dig up the seals i found as well.

[gin 1]

thanks for the input,

I hope friday I can get some pic's but not sure a 1Mb limit is a probable issue, anyway nice collections above. I mostly drive around my yard w/ a big smile across my face when on my gt14 :)

[obie130 0]

Hi i also have a gt14 mine is a 69 im having some issues withit goes forward and reverse fine (i think ha ha) but if i put the plow down and it digs in the rear tires wont even spin they do nothing in forward and reverse i was going to use it to plow my driveway this winter but if i cant get enough power for it to dig im not even gonna drive my driveway is for 4x4 only in winter time steep incline, my question is where is the relief valve located at its almost like it may be stuck open and not letting enough fluid pass threw. Or if someone else has any idears for me i would appriciate it. Thanks allot

[Ole MN 11]

obie, Welcome to Red Square you will find the tow valve on top in back right under the seat. long end should face to the front.

[oldredrider 2,549]

obie 130, I've been in your shoes. Have a 1970 GT-14 that did the same thing. Tried rebuilding it to no avail...same problem. Cussed, fussed and was about to give up on it. Found an old Charger a friend had sitting in his woods (graveyard). Pulled the trans pump out of it and put it on the GT-14, which is a direct bolt up. Tractor will now pull a 2 foot wheelie ( I have a witness) and if I put the dozer blade up against a tree, it will dig until it chokes the motor.

Forty years on a hydro pump is a long time. Save yourself the hassle of trying to "fix" it and instead,try to find a good replacement.

Good luck

[gin 1]

@obie130,

if your standing behind the tractor and pull up the seat it can be seen to the left, close to one of the hydraulic lines. it has, I believe, a 1" bolt w/ cylindrical pin sticking upward. There also should be a tension pin going threw that upward pin, you can rotate it but the tension pin generally stops if from spinning around by hitting the pump . I'm still not sure which direction it should face but I recently removed mine ( take off the fender, loosen a few frame bolts etc and took it out). I replaced the 2 rubber o-rings at a local hydraulic shop for a couple dollars. I really could not tell if there was any change in power but it was a pretty easy thing to take out and worth trying to fix, the o-rings were a bit flat / worn and I did notice some dirt in the hydraulic oil which I am going to change next along w/ the filter. I hope i'm not to confusing but if I was to expand more this could get long. If you have any more related questions on that valve, I'll do my best but hydro transmission are very new to me, my previous garden tractors were all geared.

@olderdrider,

I've been trying to identify the different major parts, looks like the pump, transmission, differential are all bolted together and ?? hydraulic motor, seems like there might be a couple different ways the drive train was configured. Is the transmission pump the part that has the fan/ belt pulley on it and does that also provide pressure to the hydraulic cylinders ? I'm having some issues trying to figure out which part is which and what they all do. Having everything bolted together makes it a little confusing w/o taking the whole thing apart.

thanks for the comments

[KC9KAS 4,741]

I recently bought some hoses for my GT-14 from an auto parts store. The hoses and fittings were GATES brand. He used an ORB adapter that fit into the valve correctly then made the hoses with a flare fitting to match the ORB adapter.

[Brrly1 1,146]

Just watching to see what you guys come up with. Thanks

[meadowfield 2,595]

Here is the motor and pump from a 72 sundstrand. The pump is the large lump with the pulley... there are two parts to this, the charge pump and variable displacement pump - early models were gear-piston, older ones were piston-piston (as this one is). The hydraulics are powered from the charge pump.

First place to look when there is no power are: clogged strainer, clogged filter, tow valve open, inadequate travel on motion control valve, relief valve broken.

The motion control valve is in the centre and you can see the tow valve to the right

4-5 bolts separate the drive pump and motor assembly from the main transmission casting.

mark