CTBT&D 77 #1 Posted May 23, 2012 I've seen at least three different ways of doing this and this is what my pea brain came up with. First is the plan drawing to work out leverage ratios. I precision scaled the upper linkage travel as 11/16" for forward and 9/16" for reverse. The maximum forward pedal movement is 11.5 degrees and 9.4 degrees for reverse. And the assorted pieces. The centering device is credited to mattd860, same idea with a couple of different parts. As in a solid block and shoulder bolt in place of angle iron and bolt and washers (using what's available to me). Instead of one long control rod with a few bends, I thought it would be easier with straight rods, but it made the center pivot bracket a bit more complicated. Oh well there is always a trade off. The end links are Wheel Horse, and the pedal is from a C105, all purchased off Ebay. It's difficult to get a good picture of the upper linkage installed. This is the pedal and linkage before and after the foot board is installed. I altered the pedal, first I removed the casting knob where the brake linkage attached and added my own on the bottom, moved the grease fitting, and obviously made and welded on the reverse arm. Thanks for looking - Craig Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,141 #2 Posted May 23, 2012 Looks great Craig, how's it working for you? :popcorn: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevebo-(Moderator) 8,363 #3 Posted May 23, 2012 Very nicely done. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowtiebutler956 650 #4 Posted May 23, 2012 That looks like some very high quality craftsmanship! Very nicely done! Matt :flags-texas: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smoreau 658 #5 Posted May 23, 2012 Looks very nice! Good Job on the design! This is more in order of what I originally had planned to do, but Matt gave me a deal that I could not refuse, So I went with his and it works great. I like how you reused the linkage parts from WH and yes it has more complexity then Matts, But should work just fine. The pedal looks very nice also. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CTBT&D 77 #6 Posted May 23, 2012 It moves real smooth and I think it's going to work great. Still have to assemble the rest of the tractor, fender deck, seat and both side covers. I'll try to get a test run in by this weekend. Ran out of time tonight, working 11 hour days doesn't leave a lot of me time. This is my snow throwing machine and I'm trying to free up my right hand to steer. Thanks for the replies. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,766 #7 Posted May 23, 2012 Awesome fab work! If you grind off the "BRAKE" on the pedal, it will look completely like a factory setup! Very nice! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1maidenfan 202 #8 Posted May 23, 2012 If I could only get one made for my D series I would be in buisness. :techie-eureka: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattd860 162 #9 Posted May 23, 2012 WOW you did an amazing job. Glad I could have helped with part of the design . Have you verified that the reverse pedal will not interfere with the footboard? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattd860 162 #10 Posted May 23, 2012 Also - what is the purpose of the idler pulley on the drive belt? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,766 #11 Posted May 23, 2012 Not sure why he added the pulley Matt, but I did the same on my 520-H. No matter what belt was installed, it slapped and rattled until I added an extra idler. More than likely just a weak tension spring, but I had the idler pulley right there on the shelf... In my case at least, poor folks have poor ways... :ychain: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CTBT&D 77 #12 Posted May 24, 2012 I have a post on this site somewhere about the idler, same reason as kpinnc, the belt slapped around a lot, especially on the 416H. I first did it on my 416H, this is the 520H and I moved it up 3/4" because of slight interference with the linkage. I cut off the original cast knob for the brake linkage because it hit belt cover and if I moved it out to miss the cover it hit the floor board. At full reverse, the clearance of the reverse arm and foot board right now is just under 3/4" vertically, I need to take it for a spin to see how it feels. With both linkages adjustable, I can rotate the pedal a lot. I tried to get it to set about the same as the brake lever on the other side. I was going to cut off the brake lettering, but I can't remember why I didn't. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jake Kuhn 1,556 #13 Posted May 24, 2012 Very nice job on that! Jake Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terry M-(Moderator) 2,177 #14 Posted May 24, 2012 yes, Looks really nice and well done :handgestures-thumbupright: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,012 #15 Posted September 18, 2012 Looks good! ~Duke Share this post Link to post Share on other sites