pto clutch adustment

[wheelhorse75 0]

hello, i have a 1975 wheelhorse c-160 automatic,does anyone know how to move the crankshaft pulley out away from the engine block, and how do you tighten it? i read on an old post on here that you loosen it pull it out 1/8" to 3/16", then tighten it, how do you go about doing that?

thanks

[B-8074 19]

I'm confused, are you wanting to adjust the pto or move the drive pulley?

[rmaynard 15,580]

Remove the PTO, loosen the two set screws in the drive pulley, and move it out. After you get it where you want it, tighten the set screws again. If it is rusted to the crankshaft you may have to use a wheel puller to get it to move.

:WRS:

[wheelhorse75 0]

b-8074 im wanting to move the drive pulley.

[Don1977 604]

I don't know why you would want to move it out, an 8th inch out on the distance between the engine and transmission will not make any difference. Two set screws will never hold it in place with the pressure of the clutch pushing it back. Leave it where it is will save you a lot of trouble keeping the clutch adjusted.

[wheelhorse75 0]

im moving it out because i cant get any tension on the clutch. its not the clutch plate because i just replaced it last year with a brand new one. i saw this on an old post from here and this is what my tractor is doing. i also read that if you move the drive pulley out that it will give you more tension and the clutch wont slip. ive included the posts.

as soon as the mower blades encountered any grass of substantial thickness, the PTO slowed down and in some cases, stopped all together.

chesbaycruiser

Posted: April 12, 2009 12:00 am

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Group: Members

Posts: 316

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Joined: November 13, 2008

I have a 1975 B-80 that has recently been put back into commission. The other day, I started to use it to mow with for the first time, and when I engaged the pto, the deck came right to life, however as soon as the mower blades encountered any grass of substantial thickness, the PTO slowed down and in some cases, stopped all together.

The engine runs and pulls strong. I'm guessing the PTO clutch is worn. Does this sound right? Any other possiblities, or ways to confirm?

Assuming it's the clutch plate, I've perused the Toro site looking for a new one searching on my B-80 model number (1-0141). That returned parts for a B-100, including "94-6650- ASS'Y-CLUTCH PLATE" for $60.76.

I'm assuming the B-100 parts will fit the B-80? Anyone know of other sources for new parts? (Don't really want a used clutch plate!)

Any feedback will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Chris

Tony S

Posted: April 12, 2009 05:32 pm

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Group: Members

Posts: 27

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Joined: February 02, 2009

<a href="http://whtractor.15.forumer.com/index.php?showuser=903">chesbaycruiser

Posted: April 14, 2009 12:58 am

Senior Member

Group: Members

Posts: 316

Member No.: 903

Joined: November 13, 2008

Hey All,

Thanks again for all the great input. I pulled the PTO apart and inspected the friction plate, which appeared to be OK...no rivets showing, and about 1/8" thickness.

After removing the the friction plate, I could see wear on the belt cover, which seemed to like it might support Tony's notion of the drive pulley being to close to the engine block.

I loosened the pulley and pulled it out about 1/8" to 3/16", tightened it, and put the whole thing back together. It ended up giving me a lot more adjustment with the trunion, which appears to have soved the problem. I did some quick testing in the yard and all worked well, athough my grass is not very tall right now. It was getting dark and starting to rain when I finished, so I'll test more when I have more time and taller grass, but I'm pretty sure I'm good to go.

I've attached a few photos of the work. (Note the Red Square reference materials.)

Thanks again,

Chris

---------------------------

I rebuilt the engine on my C-125 and replaced the clutch lining, and when I went to use it last week it slipped. I tried adjusting it to no avail, and then I remembered reading on here that if you put the crankshaft pulley on too close too the crankcase it affects the clutch operation. I moved the pulley away from the engine block so that the sleeve that the PTO pulley runs on protruded over the end of the crank by about 3/16" rather than the crank poking out through the end of the sleeve by 3/16". I then re-set the clutch adjustment and it never slipped at all. It was the first cut of the season and the grass was thick and clumpy and I cut a bit low but there was no stopping it, it really made the engine bark, awesome!

[WH854 44]

hello, i have a 1975 wheelhorse c-160 automatic,does anyone know how to move the crankshaft pulley out away from the engine block, and how do you tighten it? i read on an old post on here that you loosen it pull it out 1/8" to 3/16", then tighten it, how do you go about doing that?

thanks

neighbor

good luck with your tractor

Chas

[Don1977 604]

Are you sure the snap ring holding the short shaft out side of the ball bearing in the PTO pulley hasn't come off. That shaft has a snap ring on both side of the bearing if the out side one comes out of the groove, you will not be able to adjust the clutch. You would have to have an engine with longer than the normal crank shaft length for the location of the pulley on the shaft, for that to be the problem.

[wheelhorse75 0]

i moved the drive pulley out 3/16" and it gave me alot of adjustment on the pto trunnion. i went out and cut through high grass and no problems at all untill after about 10 mins then it started skipping and completly stopped untill i got into the shorter grass then it started cutting again, i checked and the drive pulley moved back in again. does anyone have any suggestions on what to do?

[canam1991 2]

your grease seal on the bell maybe bad when the bell gets hot the grease boils and starts to leak out and get on to the disc try taking a torch to the brake pad material and heat it up until the grease catches on fire after its all burned off spray off with brake cleaner replace seal remember only a dab of grease on your finger for the bearing

[Don1977 604]

If the only way you can get enough pressure on the clutch to hold is to move the drive pulley out something on you tractor has been changed from the original parts.

[Duff 206]

Don, I'm not so sure he's off the mark in wanting to move his drive pulley out away from the block to solve his problem. Seems I read here a few years ago that it is a common and acceptable way to keep the PTO clutch adjustment within spec as well as to keep the main drive belt in alignment. I had the same problem a few years ago with my first 312-8 - all factory original parts, no swap-outs along the way - and the drive pulley had worked its way into the block. To get it to stay in place after pulling it back out about 1/8", I located where one of the set screws had marked the crankshaft when it was in the correct position then hand-filed a small "flat" at that location for the set screw to dig into. The edge of the flat prevents the set screw from sliding sideways, and it's been holding in place ever since with a lot of mowing hours. I also used blue Loc-tite on the set screws. Just one man's [successful] experience.....

Duff :thumbs:

[Don1977 604]

I understand that if it's out 1/8" and will slide back you will lose the adjustment on the PTO clutch. I just don't see how he could not have enough adjustment in the clutch to take care of 1/8". I know it's best to have the pulleys in perfect aliment, but with the distance between the engine drive pulley and the transmission pulley 1/8" is not going to make any difference. If you want to have it 1/8" off the back, it would be better to have a 1/8" spacer behind the pulley so it can never move back.

[wheelhorse75 0]

hello thanks to everyone for all the information. i moved it back and put loc tight seal on the set screws and so far so good it hast moved on me and i have alot of adjustment on the pto clutch, i also cut alot of high grass to test it out and it cut right through it with no problems at all. if it does move back i will put a spacer behind the pulley like don suggested. Again thanks to everyone for all the helpful information i really appreciated it.

[chesbaycruiser 83]

I understand that if it's out 1/8" and will slide back you will lose the adjustment on the PTO clutch. I just don't see how he could not have enough adjustment in the clutch to take care of 1/8". I know it's best to have the pulleys in perfect aliment, but with the distance between the engine drive pulley and the transmission pulley 1/8" is not going to make any difference. If you want to have it 1/8" off the back, it would be better to have a 1/8" spacer behind the pulley so it can never move back.

Since my post from a few years ago was quoted....yes, it is absolutely enough to make a difference.

Before I got my B-80, it had been torn down and reassembled. In the process the drive pulley was installed too close to the block. Because of this I was not able to adjust the trunion enough to allow the engagement lever to fully engage the pto clutch. The mower deck would engage, but would balk at even the slightest amount of grass. After reading another post about this issue, I pulled the pto and could see where it was obviously too far back, as it was rubbing on the belt guard. I made the adjustment specified above, which allowed the pto engagement lever to fully compress the clutch. This gave me full adjustment at the trunion, ended the slippage problem and kept the pulley off the belt guard. It's been three years and it's still going strong today.

FYI...If you look closely at the pto clutch on your tractor, I think you'd be surprised at how just how little travel there actually is when you engage the lever.

[Don1977 604]

I have a spacer behind my drive pulley, it's because I changed engines. I have a 18 HP Briggs & stratton Vanguard. the reason for the spacer is I used two of the existing holes to keep from weaking the frame by drilling more hole beside them just filled them to make them line up with the engine. I had a16 HP vanguard in it for 20 years before the 18 HP so I don't remember the thickness of my spacer. I used the spacer because the two set screws would never hold with the pressuer require to pull my 48" deck in heavy grass.

The 8 Hp kohler may need the pulley set out, my 12 HP kohler was all the way back as far as it could go and never had a problem with adjustment or if it wasn't perfectily alined it hasn't been a problem as I have only had two drive belts in 35 years with all three engines.

[chesbaycruiser 83]

...The 8 Hp kohler may need the pulley set out, my 12 HP kohler was all the way back as far as it could go...

I think I remember somewhere in the K-181 Service Manual there is a spec for the distance from the block to the back of the drive pulley, but I couldn't swear to it. So far I haven't had to tear into any other engines yet, so that pretty much exhausts my knowledge of Kohler engines!

[can whlvr 993]

i thought that the pulley was supposed to go all the way so the shoulder of the pulley bottoms out,but ive been wrong before