Martin 2,131 #26 Posted May 20, 2012 excellent thread, rich! your project turned out awesome, the beauty of fabricating from scratch is that every 'wear' area is like new and fits snug. its just like finding a nos one but cheaper and theres always the thought that you created it yourself..... like i said before, love a bit of home fabrication. my 4 1/2" grinder with a cut off wheel is all i use for cutting out stuff for the tractors too. just use a straight edge like you and with a bit of clean up, almost anything is possible. just takes some time, if you already have the material needed. imagine what you could do with a water jet like the big boys use....... i think its almost time to get back into some back yard fabrication again myself........ 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
312Hydro 474 #27 Posted May 20, 2012 excellent thread, rich! your project turned out awesome, the beauty of fabricating from scratch is that every 'wear' area is like new and fits snug. its just like finding a nos one but cheaper and theres always the thought that you created it yourself..... like i said before, love a bit of home fabrication. my 4 1/2" grinder with a cut off wheel is all i use for cutting out stuff for the tractors too. just use a straight edge like you and with a bit of clean up, almost anything is possible. just takes some time, if you already have the material needed. imagine what you could do with a water jet like the big boys use....... i think its almost time to get back into some back yard fabrication again myself........ Thanks for liking the thread Martin,I always enjoy seeing your work . I've got to say that working at a place that powder coats would be like working at "Willy Wonka's" ! Work would get in the way! Don't even mention the big toys. I like my tools and always find a project to add more.A Tig would be on the list with the water jet and a metal lathe or small milling machine. O well, dream on! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,131 #28 Posted May 20, 2012 i have access to a lathe at work, but the frustrating thing is they wont wire it up. something about no time, or not priority or some bs..... it just sits there in the maintenance area as a catch all for all sorts of junk. i think one day i will just get with the maintenance supervisor and get it done under the radar....... then it will be game on..... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
312Hydro 474 #29 Posted May 20, 2012 I don't know how many electricians you have there but donuts are a good start. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,131 #30 Posted May 20, 2012 We have two. one is the manager and he procrastinates about everything. The other is the maintenance supervisor and he wants it running just as much as I do. Management keeps both of us flat out with other stuff so it's not high up on the list of things to do. I could make it happen, but I can't seem to get a break away from the paint lines. Always something that needs fixing when you have guys that don't care about equipment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,741 #31 Posted May 20, 2012 Always something that needs fixing when you have guys that don't care about equipment. I always tell our maintenance crew "as long as there are idiots, you guys have job security"! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
312Hydro 474 #32 Posted May 22, 2012 Thought I'd post a quick update on the Pulley Guard part 57. I made it out of some heavy paper and will be transferring it to some metal tomorrow. I also confirmed that the v-idler is the same pulley used on the mule drive, 4 1/4" or 4 1/2 " diameter depending on who is selling it.The small flat idler is definitely 2 1/2" Diameter. Found out by Googling the Toro parts number. Here are some pics of the mockup. I'll be trying the larger pulleys when I get a chance. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
312Hydro 474 #33 Posted May 22, 2012 I did some tweaking to the guard design. This is the best front pic I could find on the web. Here is the mockup side by side. It's important to understand that the idler arm can be moved to the back hole for B & C models. Plus there needs to be clearance for a standard transmission foot pedal. Without actually having one here ,this is a guesstimate of where I think the guard goes and it's dimensions. If anyone could take a picture of theirs with a ruler or tape measure in it it would help a lot! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
312Hydro 474 #34 Posted May 27, 2012 Had some time to work on the Guard part 57 today. Used 16 gauge 8"x 24" steel that I picked up at TSC. I just traced the pattern and cut it out with the grinder. Used a 17/64 drill bit for the mounting holes. I'll be scanning the shield actual size so you can just print and cut. The top of the belt guard is next and I need to bend it at 90 degrees. Need to figure out how first. Here's the latest pics- 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,131 #35 Posted May 27, 2012 I use a couple of different methods for bending sheet without a brake. Straight edge of 3/16 flat bar clamped on the bend line and brute strength is the most common way for me. Check out my 1057 battery box fab if you want to..... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
312Hydro 474 #36 Posted May 27, 2012 I use a couple of different methods for bending sheet without a brake. Straight edge of 3/16 flat bar clamped on the bend line and brute strength is the most common way for me. Check out my 1057 battery box fab if you want to..... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thanks Martin, Did you just bend it 90 and use a hammer to get the sharp angle? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,131 #37 Posted May 27, 2012 Bend it 90 and then using some flat behind it beat it with the hammer until you get a nice tight bend. If you always beat a piece of scrap you won't leave marks on your work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
312Hydro 474 #38 Posted May 27, 2012 Bend it 90 and then using some flat behind it beat it with the hammer until you get a nice tight bend. If you always beat a piece of scrap you won't leave marks on your work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thanks, That's what I was looking for! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
massey 118 #39 Posted May 27, 2012 Great thread, well documented and quality workmanship. Really enjoying it. :handgestures-thumbupright: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
312Hydro 474 #40 Posted May 30, 2012 Great thread, well documented and quality workmanship. Really enjoying it. Thanks massey! It doesn't have the "Gee Whiz that's amazing!" factor of your crawler build though! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
312Hydro 474 #41 Posted May 30, 2012 Thought I'd continue on the guard fabrication today.We're going to start by using the left over steel from the guards to make the small almost vertical belt guard at the idler pulley. I took Martin's advice and was able to do a respectable bend on the part. If I had a sheet metal brake or a press it would have been perfect but the bend came out ok.With the piece being small I clamped it to a large angle and used a piece of 3/8" bar as a backer to distribute the force. Without the backer the bend was not as sharp.Did the bending with a wood block and a large hammer . Cut it off and now you have the basic part. It is easier if you don't cut it angle up like I did because the angle got in the way of the grinder. The next step is to measure 1 1/2" up on the side and mark a line for the last cut. Be sure to mark it as it would be on the guard,it's easy to get confused here.You will then make the cut into the wide side only! You need this cut to make the small angled bend for belt clearance. I used a T-bevel to measure the angle and you could actually bend it after the bottom is attached to the guard. Last step is to deburr and round over the corners so there are no sharp edges on the part. I used a belt sander but a file would be ok. That's it other than putting the two guard pieces together and that will be in the next post. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
312Hydro 474 #42 Posted June 1, 2012 Well this is about the final post showing construction. once you have the angle bent you are ready to attach it. Two ways come to mind. 1.Clamp it to the guard and drill 1/8 holes through both pieces. You could then Pop rivet both together. Or 2. Weld them. I chose to weld them as I had the mig. A spot welder would be ideal. A tig would be great too.Be sure to clamp the pieces tightly so the weld will penetrate. Also be sure the parts are clean. Okay, Here are the pics and I welded the bottom "tab" of the rear angle first and then mounted the guard on the tractor to check belt clearance. then finished welding it. Ok if you are building this and made it this far, Congratulations!! Your idler works! Go till some soil! I'll be following this up with a complete list of parts and the full-size scan of the guard .I still need to sandblast and paint my tiller mid mount idler assembly. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
312Hydro 474 #43 Posted June 8, 2012 Thought I'd put up some pics of the guard painted and the sub assemblies. I have a small video of the Tiller pulley assembly in action and I'll post it when I can. It worked flawlessly and never slipped. I must have come close to the original and would like to compare them if i ever get the chance. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
312Hydro 474 #44 Posted June 11, 2012 Took some time to upload a video today of the pulley in "action". Don't fall asleep watching it! I shot three and was going to pick the best but none of them stood out as "the best" LOL Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
