C-160 Transmission Question

[MaineDad 85]

I called NAPA to see if the filter I purchased was indeed a Hydraulic filter (part# 1307) and he confirmed it was. I also learned that the picture on page 50 of the manual is of a hyrdo without the implement lift charge valve.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,145]

I looked in my Intertec manual and have something for you to try, Micah.

The plug between the lift hoses is the test gauge port, so maybe by loosening it slightly, it might "burp" the air from the system - if that's the problem.

The charge pump relief valve is apparently located in the top front of the pump block. Take it apart and make sure it is clean and not stuck.

Anything is worth a try, right?

[MaineDad 85]

Thanks for the help. Will give it a try.

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

Micah

WARNING -If you try loosening be careful - hydraulic fluid under pressure can cause major problems to human flesh! Be sure not to allow you hand to be anywhere near where oil could be expelled.

How much oil came out of it?

Was the oil that came ou oil or red tranny fluid?

Best o luck

[MaineDad 85]

Tried recent suggestion with no luck. However, I did print out the 1973-77 diagram and noticed a few problems;

First of all I am missing the shim set (part# 103574) in the implement valve. I am also missing the O Ring (part# 971012) and the Back Up Ring (part# 103459) in the Tow Valve. I was unable to turn out the screws in the Forward Check Valve and the Reverse Check Valve to inspect them. Any ideas on how to turn those screws out without stripping the slot for the screwdriver? I used a very large screwdriver with no success.

So I am a little closer to getting this baby running. I appreciate all of the help so far. Does anyone have these parts that I can buy before I go to rcpw?

Thanks,

[kj4kicks 152]

Hi Micah, You will need what's called an "Impact Driver" to break that big screw loose. It's a hand held tool that pre-loads the bit, and then you smack it with a hammer. You can probably rent one locally.

[MaineDad 85]

Eldon,

I bought an Impact Driver today and gave it a try. No deal. That is not moving at all. I really smack it too.

Anyways, I ordered some new O rings for the implement valve and charge valve, plus the Shim set for the implement valve. I also ordered the O ring and back up ring for the tow valve. I'll do an update when those arrive and are installed. If this does not work, I will have to remove the the whole pump end cap and pump.

I also have a few leads locally on a whole replacement tranny if necessary. We'll see. The nice thing about this project is it is not my current primary work tractor so I'm not in a rush to get it done. I would like to get her running by fall at the latest.

Thanks guys,

[kj4kicks 152]

Micah, Soak them good with PB Blaster for a few days. I know what you mean, they are VERY tight after 30+ years. Been there, done that, got the T-shirt.

[glenn27 71]

Micah--reading along w/ you here--on one of my first 120's--the little tow valve, as called , was stuck on mine--I finally got it out--but up in the orface, was a little piece of --looked like gasket, maybe.....I replaced that little valve and the 0-ring (from Toro dealer) and then was good to go--once it like 'burped out the air"--and mine only took right/hair less @ five qts.--including changing the filter....Your routing on the belt looks right--the other adjustment I was talking about was down in that box betwixst your legs--where that little travel cam is worked by the ball stud on the handle....

Sounds like that pump is just not primed--for some reason...

puzzling.... B)

[glenn27 71]

Thanks Kevin... Boy it's hard to find a parts manual for this tractor

Micah--I can copy my 120 manual--should be the same, this weekend and send it to you, if need be..

let me know--

[bluetuna08 0]

as far as hydraulic trouble shooting goes I have done a bit at work.

I quickly read down through the posts so I might rehash some so I appologize upfront.

something to check - if the pump starts and runs upto speed but does not develope any pressure shut the engine down and watch (or have someone watch the pump) to see if the pump stops abruptly or coasts down. then that probably means you need to rebuild that pump or get a new one.

I will try to find more literature on hydraulics trouble shooting

good luck - matt

BTW - I saw this WH in uncle henries when I was looking for my 312-8

[MaineDad 85]

Micah--I can copy my 120 manual--should be the same, this weekend and send it to you, if need be..

let me know--

That would be very helpful. Thanks Glenn...

[MaineDad 85]

Guys,

I won the c-160 transmission ebay auction from Joe's. I also won a c-160 gas tank and a set of tires from him. The transmission looks like it has a pump end cap without the implement lift so I would swap the one on mine if necessary. Hopefully I can get this one going first, but it's nice to have a backup.

Will let you know how it goes...

Thanks,

[MaineDad 85]

Here's an update. Installed the new o-rings and shims with no success. So I decided to remove the whole tranny and work on it with a little more room. Drained the oil and took it off the frame.

I decided to start with the pump housing. As I pulled the housing away from the pump I could hear a bunch of rattling. It seems the cylinders (9 total) have come away from their positions. I decided to stop right there and print out the manual before I go any further. Everything looked real clean, but the circular valve was also loose.

I'll give her another try today hopefully.

[glenn27 71]

Micah--good deal on the auction. and good work on dis-assembling..

At least, it's not ur primary mower. keep 'er coming! B)

[MaineDad 85]

Hey guys,

I cannot get the pump end cap off. I removed the two 16 point bolts. Am I missing something? I really need to check the forward and reverse valves. I'd like to get some PB blaster in the holes to release these big set screws.

Are there just those two bolts to get the pump cap off?

thanks,

[kj4kicks 152]

There are 4 of those 12 point bolts holding the aluminum housing to the cast iron end cap.

After you get that split, there are 2 more allen head bolts under there that hold the 2 cast iron halves together.

[MaineDad 85]

The pump housing is removed.

[MaineDad 85]

These are the two bolts I am talking about

[kj4kicks 152]

Hi Micah, the other two are on the inside of that same piece. They will be visible now that you have the finned aluminum pump out of the way.

About where the arrow is in the pic.

Attached Image (Click thumbnail to expand)

[MaineDad 85]

Ok I figured it out. Once I reread the manual and understood it was a standard system, meaning the motor and pump end cap came off together, it was a lot easier. I can see now from the inside where the other two bolts are.

I'll wait and see what kind of condition the tranny is that I bought from Joe's Power before I go further...

Thanks for helping...

[MaineDad 85]

Anyone know the part number for the gasket that goes between the pump/motor assembly and the transaxle for my 1975 C-160? I'm all set to go but need this gasket first.

Thanks,

Micah

[TT-(Moderator) 1,145]

102759

Should be around $4 from Toro. B)

[MaineDad 85]

Thanks... Just ordered it!

[MaineDad 85]

Well I took the pump motor apart and what a mess. There was a retaining ring that was mangled and broken in pieces. The bearing was a mess too. The needle bearings look fine. The spring on the motor shaft was bent to heck too.

So I will try to find replacement parts and rebuild this. A quick look on rcpw showed NLA on the ball bearing (200187) and the spring (200210). Any ideas on where to find these?