Ahab 3 #1 Posted May 5, 2012 I've had my 1972 16 Auto for a little over a year now. The set screw on the left rear wheel hub has apparently worn into the axle enough that when I push into a pile with the bucket it comes loose, the axle spins in the hub, and the tractor no longer moves. I have put in a longer set screw, but I don't really expect it to be a long term solution. I guess I have to pull the hub, but from what I've read here that can be rough. Someone posted pics of a puller made out of an old hub, but I don't have one lying around. Is there a reason I cannot use a gear puller? The right way to fix it is to replace the axle, but that means taking the tranny apart, right? Could I drill a new seat for the set screw into the axle? I really don't think I want to pull the tranny apart. Anyone had to deal with this before? Any help is appreciated... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,029 #2 Posted May 5, 2012 :WRS: Well if the axle is spinning in the hub it should about fall off, lets hope it didn't destroy the axle, or the key way. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahab 3 #3 Posted May 5, 2012 The hub spins freely, but it doen't want to come off the axle. I can see the keyway in the hub, but no match in the end of the axle. Do I need to do anything other than pull it off? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,911 #4 Posted May 5, 2012 The hub is anchored by a woodruff key (half moon shape). That is why you can't see the keyway in the axle. I would suspect that the spinning around has built up some sort of burr on the axle and that is why your hub won't slide off. If it was spinning and you tightened the set screw and then spun it some more i am thinking your axle is toast, hub probably is shot also. Use a gear puller worse that will happens is the hub flange may break but i think you are due a new hub anyway. Sounds like you will be splitting the case to replace the axle. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whc160 74 #5 Posted May 5, 2012 Check out this topic. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahab 3 #6 Posted May 7, 2012 "Sounds like you will be splitting the case to replace the axle. " Shite, I didn't want to hear that. No short cuts? I'm not sure I trust myself to take the tranny apart... Well, taking it apart isn't likely to be the problem... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,633 #7 Posted May 7, 2012 Where are you located in Maryland? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coadster32 793 #8 Posted May 7, 2012 If you get the hub off, and the keyway slot in the axle is shot, a machine shop can recut a new slot for you w/o taking the tranny apart. (I have set 2 8speed tranny up on a machine in whole and have done this myself.) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahab 3 #9 Posted May 9, 2012 Thanks for all the info. Bob, I'm in Annapolis, a good hour and 30 from you. I guess I'll get a gear puller and see if I can get the hub off, and see where that takes me. I'll be back with more questions I'm sure... Sam Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
larryandnell 3 #10 Posted May 9, 2012 If you cant get the hub off and the axle is ground up anyway and you dont want to split it to replace the axle the easiest way to fix it would be to take the set screw out and drill thru the axle and other side of the hub and put a hardened bolt in it. I know several friends have done this years ago and still workin fine. Thats my .02 cents. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahab 3 #11 Posted May 10, 2012 Well the hub came off easily once I got the puller on it. I'm guessing the axle isn't suposed to look like this... I think the last guy to work on it didn't bother to put the woodruff key in and just put the set screw into the slot. I theink I'll try putting it back together with a key and see how long it lasts. If it doesn't, I'll probably go with Larry's suggestion to drill through the axle and bolt it on. Should be easier since that chanel means less to drill through! Looks like i have to put the photo online to post it here... suffice it to say that the set screw has worn a channel about 1/4" deep into the axle. There is most of the key slot left though. Now to find the right one! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SAM58 30 #12 Posted June 12, 2012 I think you would have a better chance of it working if you at lease replace the Hub. I think the metal in the hub is softer than the axle,so a lot of the wear should be on the hub. Some of the newer hubs have two set screws and with the key installed I think it would work. Your 16 Auto should have the 1-1/8" axle so getting a hub with two set screws should not be a problem. I had a simular problem with a 92 520H and a new hub fixed my problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahab 3 #13 Posted June 12, 2012 Thanks Sam. The hub is relatively new, and in good shape. The previous owner failed to replace the woodruff key when he put the new hub on, instead just tightening the set screw into the empty key slot. The tractor has an Ark 500 front loader on it, so it does a lot of pushing, and the set screw wore a channel in the axle. I put a key in whats left of the slot and it is working ok now, we'll see how long till I have to pull the tranny apart and fix it right with a new axle... I'm sure I'll be back with questions if/when that happens! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahab 3 #14 Posted May 2, 2016 Well, I'm back. Replacing the woodruff key worked for a while, but because of the axle damage the key doesn't last. This year I had to replace it twice before I got all the mulch spread. How much work is it to split the tranny to replace the axle? I have a moderate tool inventory and no experience with trannys. Any ideas about what it might cost to have a pro do it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,911 #15 Posted May 3, 2016 Good news the transaxle on a hydro is simpler that a manual transmission. Is a fairly big operation. but not really difficult. To be sure you say it is a 1972 16 Auto. I believe that it is a 1973 but to be sure is the model # 1-0440?? If so download the Sundstrand hydro manual here and you can read up on the transaxle repair section http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/24-transmission-hydro-sundstrand-sm-492-4206pdf/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahab 3 #16 Posted May 3, 2016 It is model 10440 8. That makes it a 1973? Thanks for the manual, that will definitely help! According to pp 57 and 58 I'll need to take apart the transaxle and the differential to replace the axle itself. It doesn't seem like there are any specialized tools required. I know I can get at least one of the hubs off, but have never tried the other. I'll need a transaxle case gasket and probably axle seals, as well as the axle itself. Anything else? Unless of course I get in there and find the gears all torn up... On another note, I've seen people mention a foot pedal kit around this site. Is there on that would work on my tractor? Thanks again for all the help! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahab 3 #17 Posted May 3, 2016 Suggestions on where to get parts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
82Caddy 851 #18 Posted May 3, 2016 (edited) No foot pedals for the D series tractors Case half gasket is no longer available...I made my own gasket out of gasket maker and some black RTV. I know RTV is the devil and can ruin things but if used correctly (and sparingly) it works wonders. I used my d160 with repaired rear case (diff bolt broke out the bottom of the case) all winter without issue with a snowblower and no leaks. You'll also need manifold seals where the lines from the front meet the case. Should be a couple o-rings and copper crush washers. Both can be picked up at any decent hydraulics store. Axle seals can also be bought from NAPA etc with the right part numbers. I don't remember all the details on the axles if they interchanged with a C-series or not, but if you needed one, I have one good one from a D series that you could have for next to nothing if needed. Edit: Wrong tractor. Edited May 4, 2016 by 82Caddy wrong tractor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,911 #19 Posted May 4, 2016 16 hours ago, 82Caddy said: No foot pedals for the D series tractors Case half gasket is no longer available...I made my own gasket out of gasket maker and some black RTV. I know RTV is the devil and can ruin things but if used correctly (and sparingly) it works wonders. I used my d160 with repaired rear case (diff bolt broke out the bottom of the case) all winter without issue with a snowblower and no leaks. You'll also need manifold seals where the lines from the front meet the case. Should be a couple o-rings and copper crush washers. Both can be picked up at any decent hydraulics store. Axle seals can also be bought from NAPA etc with the right part numbers. I don't remember all the details on the axles if they interchanged with a C-series or not, but if you needed one, I have one good one from a D series that you could have for next to nothing if needed. I am pretty sure this is not D. 1973 was a year of no names between eh Electro Charger Raider and the C series, No pesky manifolds to worry about, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
82Caddy 851 #20 Posted May 4, 2016 4 minutes ago, pfrederi said: I am pretty sure this is not D. 1973 was a year of no names between eh Electro Charger Raider and the C series, No pesky manifolds to worry about, You're right...I was thinking of the 18 auto. Wrong tractor. Continue on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,911 #21 Posted May 4, 2016 (edited) 17 hours ago, Ahab said: It is model 10440 8. That makes it a 1973? Thanks for the manual, that will definitely help! According to pp 57 and 58 I'll need to take apart the transaxle and the differential to replace the axle itself. It doesn't seem like there are any specialized tools required. I know I can get at least one of the hubs off, but have never tried the other. I'll need a transaxle case gasket and probably axle seals, as well as the axle itself. Anything else? Unless of course I get in there and find the gears all torn up... On another note, I've seen people mention a foot pedal kit around this site. Is there on that would work on my tractor? Thanks again for all the help! You have to separate the Hydro unit from the transaxle. There is a gasket between them 5955 NLA The case half gasket 5999 is also NLA. You can buy gasket materiel at the auto parts store. That a hammer and a scalpel or exacto knife and make your own. I would avoid the RTV route I have seen it get into bad places in a couple of hydros I have been inside. Permatex Hi Tack aerosol will seal your home made gasket and not get into bad places. (The ports on the acceleration valves are incredibly small.) I think the foot pedal only works on newer units with Eaton Hydros. Edited May 4, 2016 by pfrederi Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 993 #22 Posted May 4, 2016 ive had a 76 hydro apart and its not real hard to do Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,930 #23 Posted May 5, 2016 Check this out, could be a lot easier than changing axles. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahab 3 #24 Posted May 5, 2016 20 hours ago, 953 nut said: Check this out, could be a lot easier than changing axles. Wouldn't I have to remove the axle to do that? Any ideas about where to get a replacement axle? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,930 #25 Posted May 5, 2016 30 minutes ago, Ahab said: Wouldn't I have to remove the axle to do that When Ed did his repair the axle was not removed. Even if you have to have a local weld shop do the job it will be quicker and cheaper than getting a pair of axles and doing the rebuild. If you want to get different axles check with Kelly in our vendor section or post a wanted ad in classifieds. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
