zieg72 209 #1 Posted April 27, 2012 I just installed my hitch today and it does work with the rototiller. If it was a little shorter it would be better but it does work the way it is. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowtiebutler956 650 #2 Posted April 28, 2012 Sweet Hitch!! Matt :flags-texas: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smoreau 658 #3 Posted April 28, 2012 I thought that a tiller would fit, but never had one to hook up to tell. Glad you like the hitch. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zieg72 209 #4 Posted April 28, 2012 I thought that a tiller would fit, but never had one to hook up to tell. Glad you like the hitch. If the tube was 1-2 inch shorter you would have a full pick on the tiller. As it is the gear box hits the hitch when the tiller is only 2 inches off the ground. My homemade hitch did not work at all. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smoreau 658 #5 Posted April 28, 2012 If you didn't mind the look, you could cut off 1-2" off the hitch so the tiller could go higher. I think it wouldn't make the hitch any weaker as it would lift the front wheels before you could ever bend it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,127 #6 Posted April 28, 2012 As is...it looks like that hitch is gonna make a great fender protector. :teasing-poke: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zieg72 209 #7 Posted April 28, 2012 As is...it looks like that hitch is gonna make a great fender protector. Seat pan was all bent up before I got it.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattd860 162 #8 Posted April 28, 2012 I just installed my hitch today and it does work with the rototiller. If it was a little shorter it would be better but it does work the way it is. That is awsome!!! I have been very curious about this myself because I installed the hitch on my rototilling tractor and really didn't want to remove it when it comes time to tilling. Zieg - couldn't you just cut a knotch out of the bottom of the hitch tube instead of shorten the hole tube? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zieg72 209 #9 Posted April 28, 2012 I just installed my hitch today and it does work with the rototiller. If it was a little shorter it would be better but it does work the way it is. That is awsome!!! I have been very curious about this myself because I installed the hitch on my rototilling tractor and really didn't want to remove it when it comes time to tilling. Zieg - couldn't you just cut a knotch out of the bottom of the hitch tube instead of shorten the hole tube? I suppose you could, I will take another picture from the side to show where it hits on the gear box versus how high it is lifted off the ground. My only concern is loading it on a trailer/in a pickup truck, for transport, that it would bind. Probably have to back up the ramps and have them wide enough for the tiller to be between. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bk-scouter 93 #10 Posted April 28, 2012 I'm keeping an eye on this thread to see how it will turn out. I've been wanting to get a hitch from Scott but this issue has had me concerned for some time. I'm sure that something will be figured out -BK Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zieg72 209 #11 Posted April 28, 2012 Tilled with it some more today. The first picture is it in the up position as far as it will go sitting up against the gear box. The second is a close up. Like I said it works the way it is however I would like to not have to worry putting stress on the mounting when I lift it and it stops on the gear box and stresses the tiller mounting. I am going to take 1.5 or so inches between where the hitch pin goes and the end, then re-weld the end up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GT14 243 #12 Posted April 28, 2012 Very nice :woohoo: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CRE1992 135 #13 Posted May 19, 2012 Tilled with it some more today. The first picture is it in the up position as far as it will go sitting up against the gear box. The second is a close up. Like I said it works the way it is however I would like to not have to worry putting stress on the mounting when I lift it and it stops on the gear box and stresses the tiller mounting. I am going to take 1.5 or so inches between where the hitch pin goes and the end, then re-weld the end up. Hey just a quick though, if you try shortening up the chain for now and using a mild spring to replace a couple inches, it would do less harm to the tiller in the short term until you modify it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dkg520 509 #14 Posted December 18, 2016 Can you tell me what did you connect the assist spring to? Did you drill a hole in the receiver frame to attach the lift spring? Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,302 #15 Posted December 18, 2016 11 minutes ago, Dan Giardini said: Can you tell me what did you connect the assist spring to? Did you drill a hole in the receiver frame to attach the lift spring? Thanks My assist spring is much larger than the one shown. It attaches to a hole in a piece of angle iron above the original hitch clamp. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dkg520 509 #16 Posted December 18, 2016 Thank you for the response. Do you see anything negative about leaving the 2 inch receivers on the tractor? I have a 520 with the 2 inch receiver attached and I wish to leave it on as I attach my rototiller. The post I was reading stated the hitch did not allow the tractor to lift the rototiller completely up and I was curious about how much shorter was it with the receiver versus the original hitch. Thanks 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
