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Similar Content
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By grnlark
A couple weeks back I picked up this nice, original 551. Since then I just gave it a quick bath and swapped the rims and tires with an extra set of Cubs that were sitting in my shed. This is the first electric-start Burb I've ever had and I'm really digging the turn-key. No plans to restore. It's just a nice driver with the right patina.
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By psalms83:18
well some previous identification led us to this possibly being a early 400 suburban due to the hood and its lack of pluged hole for the 550.
but as I cleaned her up I found this number on the cast....coincidence or does it mean what it says??
not sure my brain is confusing me...
one manual sais they used tranny 5010 my tranny doesn't say that...
they made 400 401 502 and 550 but I don't find any tractors that are a 501??
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By RedRanger
I have a 401. The front rims are both different upon inspection.
Both are 8 inch and same width. Both have the same offsets.
Both are wheel horse rims and have the two holes for bolt on weights.
But, one rim has the grease zerk and valve stem on the outside and the other rim has them both on the inside.
(no you can't just flip one wheel around as the inner hub length is longer than the outer hub length.)
The second difference is the shape of the "dish" or "bubble" in the center of the wheel.
One has a more pronounced hump in the center of the rim.
It is obvious that one of them is not correct to the tractor.
From what I can tell, it looks like these early models had the zerk and valve stem on the outside.
I obviously have rims from two different years or two different models.
Where the front rims different from year to year?
Anyone have knowledge of what rims were used in what years or what my odd rim might be from?
Is there a way to ID these?
Here is the "correct" one. I can't find a picture of the other one at this time though. The other one looks very close, just the zerk and tube are on the other side of the wheel and the bulge in the center is a different shape.
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By mattd860
When I picked up my 1960 Suburban 550, the main drive belt would not disengage when I pressed on the clutch pedal. I took the belt off and it ended up being a 28" belt which is 1" smaller than the factory 29". Yesterday I purchased the correct 29" belt and installed it but it still will not disengage. If I start the tractor in gear while pressing the clutch pedal, the engine drive pulley will not spin the belt, but If I release the clutch pedal and then press it again, the belt will not stop spinning making it impossible to change gears.
So is the belt routing incorrect or am I missing some parts here???
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By wh22366
My 551 had a brandy new H60 Tecumseh bolted to the frame when I got it but it had never been hooked up or run. It then sat for 25 years in a dry basement. I've gotten it running but now have a clutch issue. I've adjusted the clutch, brake rod and clutch finger by the ops manual, made sure all pulleys align, but cannot put it in gear with the engine running. The trans pulley turns so easily it just never stops even though the belt is loose with the idler disengaged - or even removed! The belt looks new and is correct (WH #1569). 551 pictures I seen on this site show the idler pulley and trans pulley about the same diameter. My idler is 3" and and the trans pulley 4". The belt guard fits well.
What am I missing? The trans pulley would have to be stopped to put it in gear and that ain't happenin.
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