High Heat Area

[AMC RULES 37,130]

I know the paint of choice for our restorations is Valspar, but I'm wondering how it would hold up in the high heat areas, engine, head, tins?

Don't we need a high temp paint in these areas? :scratchead:

[Hodge71 664]

Craig,

I doubt its going to do well on heads, they get way too hot I think. That might be why most guys that do restos on here leave them natural. I dont think it will burn off , but I bet it will turn orange. As far as blocks, it should do well there and I believe hoods should be ok too. The 3,4,5 series might be a bit harder on the hood due to how close the muffler is to the paint. I'm actually concerned myself with my 18 auto. I made the single exhaust stack and now I wonder how the hood is going to handle the proximity of hot exhaust. I guess time will tell. These motors move a ton of air so I'm hoping that helps. My Dads 1973 12 auto even has a bit of fading where the Nelson exhaust exits the side of the tractor. Its a bit more orange than the rest of the red and its still the factory paint. The trouble is red is not a natural pigment Thats why it fades and chalks out so easily without clear coating. I never knew that and it was explained to me by a professional paint/auto body guy. Hope this helps bud.....

[kpinnc 12,096]

I use high-temp black on the fins of the block, and the head is just silver aluminum, so it won't need anything. Valspar will be fine on the tins and bottom of the block. Just not on the hot spots of the block. Looks like this K181, and none of mine have ever faded or lost paint due to heat.

I have heard of others using regular paint OVER the high-temp stuff, but never tried it myself.

[AMC RULES 37,130]

Thanks Jeff, maybe I should have stated the tractor I'm currently working on is a round hood.

I know enough of them have been done before mine, the heat concern has to have been addressed already.

It's not gonna be a show queen when finished, just a good lookin' little worker...that's all.

[Anglo Traction 761]

Hi Craig, I agree with all said so far. I'm not for Factory Paint job of blast anything that shows. I also prefer VHT Paints on Hot Spots for resilience to heat and corrosion .

As for Tin Work, the underside of the Hoods are left Powder Coat Satin Black and then Acrylic/Cellulose (laquered) Topside. So far I have no deterioration caused by heat .

[AMC RULES 37,130]

:text-goodpost:

Humm...some gorgeous looking results right there Richard.

I may just have to consider giving that route a go too.

Provides that little custom touch, plus it just seems to make good sense to do it that way. :thanks:

[bowtiebutler956 650]

Hey Craig. I used Dupli-Color Cherry Red on the block, and it is starting to burn off around the exhaust. However, I used VHT cast coat aluminum header paint on the head, and exhaust, and it still looks like new! Its kind of funny having the paint on the block burned, but the exhaust looking new.

Matt :flags-texas:

[Terry M-(Moderator) 2,175]

Lots of good info on this post...I'll be rebuilding a HH60 for my 606 later this year and paint is something I didn't give much thought about.

When you guys paint your engines, do you prime any of the metal on the engine or hit with paint only? Also I was wondering, does Aluminum engine material hold the paint better than other cast iron/steel materials? :text-feedback:

[AMC RULES 37,130]

Hey Craig. I used Dupli-Color Cherry Red on the block, and it is starting to burn off around the exhaust.

Yep, that what I got to fearin' was gonna happen Matt...thought I'd better ask the brain trust here before I started.

I too am curious about the primer before high temp question as well...wonder if VHT makes high temp primer too? :scratchead:

[bowtiebutler956 650]

No Terry, I don't prime my engines, just the body. In my experience steel/iron holds paint better than aluminum, but aluminum does just fine. This is the way I do it, but I'm sure others have a different way, and I'm not saying mine is better.

Matt :flags-texas:

[AMC RULES 37,130]

A quick ebay search...item # 110833458055. VHT Flame Proof Primer in white.

[gwgdog66 23]

A quick ebay search...item # 110833458055. VHT Flame Proof Primer in white.

I used this primer on the las engine I painted. The Valspar IH Restoration did turn a bit darker around the head and exhaust area.

[AMC RULES 37,130]

Got a pict Gary?

[Anglo Traction 761]

The VHT Paints I use (in UK) are straight on to bare matal. you only have to have a clean dry and grease free surface.

I have also used Body colour paint (Cellulose/Acrylic) over VHT (on Crankcase) and have never had any problems, even during the first curing by heat process.

[Rooster 191]

Have any of you ever taken any temp readings of your head or block after painting them?

[Anglo Traction 761]

Not me personally Rooster, but here is a link that I recall was posted last year.

[gwgdog66 23]

Got a pict Gary?

I need to get some this weekend after 40 hrs run time. Here it is after painting it and installing it on the tractor

http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu241/gwgdog66/Wheel%20Horse/1975%20C-100%20Wheel%20Horse%208%20Speed%20Mdl%201-0391/DSC00581.jpg?t=1274001064

[AMC RULES 37,130]

:thanks: Gary. :thumbs:

[gwgdog66 23]

Gary.

After 50 hours. It was hot so I didn't wash it off. It has darkened around the fins, and turned white around the exhaust.

[AMC RULES 37,130]

WOW! I'd say the high heat primer is definitely a no go.

Really, that was a VHT product huh?

Thanks for the pict Gary. :thanks:

[gwgdog66 23]

WOW! I'd say the high heat primer is definitely a no go.

Really, that was a VHT product huh?

Thanks for the pict Gary.

Yes it was. I'll wash it off this morning and get a "Cleaner" picture.

[Martin 2,132]

i know all paints have greater success holding on if the metal is very clean first, either glass beaded or some method to get it absolutely clean before application. not saying though in this case that it wasnt clean enough, just saying that every bit helps. i have had mixed results with lots of engine paints over the years and sometimes the ones you expect to hang on the least amount of time end up being there the longest. my k241 in the 1054 was done with spraybomb valspar resto red and thats been there since mid 2011, i guess it has about 30-40 hours on it and its still good. the k241 in the 1057 that im doing now has about 2 hours on it and i used powdercoat on that with metal as clean as clean can be and i have discoloration. i think the 1054 engine was run only for a few minutes at a time for the first couple weeks so the paint might have gotten immume to the heat a little. the 1057 engine was run a good 3/4 hour first off at 3/4 to full throttle and im sure that exhaust area got real warm in that time. i dont have any peeling or intense burning of paint like above though....

one thing i think that helps too is proper engine shrouding and cooling, i noticed in the above pic that you dont have a shroud around the back and side of the motor covering the piston area of the fins. maybe that shroud would help in this situation. hows the air flow coming through from the blower housing? no blockages or restricted flow? you should really feel the hot air if you are on the exit side of the engine while its running.

[gwgdog66 23]

i know all paints have greater success holding on if the metal is very clean first, either glass beaded or some method to get it absolutely clean before application. not saying though in this case that it wasnt clean enough, just saying that every bit helps. i have had mixed results with lots of engine paints over the years and sometimes the ones you expect to hang on the least amount of time end up being there the longest. my k241 in the 1054 was done with spraybomb valspar resto red and thats been there since mid 2011, i guess it has about 30-40 hours on it and its still good. the k241 in the 1057 that im doing now has about 2 hours on it and i used powdercoat on that with metal as clean as clean can be and i have discoloration. i think the 1054 engine was run only for a few minutes at a time for the first couple weeks so the paint might have gotten immume to the heat a little. the 1057 engine was run a good 3/4 hour first off at 3/4 to full throttle and im sure that exhaust area got real warm in that time. i dont have any peeling or intense burning of paint like above though....

one thing i think that helps too is proper engine shrouding and cooling, i noticed in the above pic that you dont have a shroud around the back and side of the motor covering the piston area of the fins. maybe that shroud would help in this situation. hows the air flow coming through from the blower housing? no blockages or restricted flow? you should really feel the hot air if you are on the exit side of the engine while its running.

It has good air flow across the fins. I think if I had let the primer and paint cure longer it wouldn't look so bad around the exhaust area.

[Martin 2,132]

that might have made a difference. i think some engines run hotter than others, too. carb settings maybe have something to do with that. and then some people work their tractors harder than others too...

who knows what works the best. i know that the valspar resto rattle cans have surprised me on a least one engine with hanging on well. doesnt even look like its been run at all.

[AMC RULES 37,130]

Did you use any primer first Martin?