Wheel Horse Red - Paint #?

[Pilot78 7]

Group,

Please excuse all the newbie questions... especially if they have been asked before. Looks like I will be picking up my first horse tomorrow, and dis-assembly and sand blasting will follow. My question is what color of Red? Is there a specific Wheel horse red... a paint # from a specific vendor or do you go with the closest bright red out there? I will be picking up this RJ58 tomorrow....it's original red looks faded orange.

Brian

SLC-UT

[Kelly 1,029]

International tractor red is what WH used, but different brands are all different shades, if rattle canning it, Rustoleum regal red or sun rise red

[Hodge71 664]

Run yourself to a Tractor Supply nearby and pick up Valspar IH Red. You can get in spray bombs or paint and hardner and spray it with a gun and compressor. They also have 2 varieties, Tractor and Implement and Restoration Series. If you're building a show horse, the Restoration Series is the way to fly, a worker is fine with the Tractor and implement... Theres a $3 a can difference, $6 for the T&I and $9 for the Restoration Series

Ya beat me Kelly!!!!!

[bowtiebutler956 650]

I just used International Red in an industrial enamel with plenty of hardener. Turned out pretty well. Here is a pic.

Matt :flags-texas:

[bowtiebutler956 650]

I hit post without putting in the pic. Oops.

Matt :flags-texas:

[1maidenfan 202]

I hit post without putting in the pic. Oops.

Matt

Nice looking tractor ! :happy-smileygiantred:

[1maidenfan 202]

I am in the process of redoing an 18 auto,Complete tear down. My paint of choice was the rustoleum, regal red. I tried a couple of colors of some pieces and compared them to some none faded parts and the regal red matched the best for me. My

Nice first addition to the start of your collection.

[speedyleedy 205]

I agree with hodge 71 the valsar from tsc work's great for the money ! :WRS:

[KC9KAS 4,741]

bowtiebutler.....very nice looking tractor!

[Jake Kuhn 1,556]

What I use on my tractors is a 2004 chrysler red that you can just get mixed at any parts store but it is not the cheapest to buy,the code is pr4 . Jake

[AMC RULES 37,141]

Here you go...

[jusjeepn 59]

Have you considered just stopping the rust and leaving it that color? It's only original once! Of course for that one to be original, you'll need to take off those 60's fenders and tool box! :hide:

[rj35hunter 283]

I second that jusjeepn!

[neil 2,410]

Have you considered just stopping the rust and leaving it that color? It's only original once! Of course for that one to be original, you'll need to take off those 60's fenders and tool box!

I agree . she would look just nice if she was cleaned up and just oiled all over eventually these unpainted original ones will become so rare that they will be worth more as they are. ( Just my opinion )

[Mike harris 5]

When restoring your tractor do you tear down completely and paint parts?  Or just clean it and throw paint on it?  I am thinking of tearing it down completely

Edited March 27, 2018 by Mike harris

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,498]

31 minutes ago, Mike harris said:

When restoring your tractor do you tear down completely and paint parts?  Or just clean it and throw paint on it?  I am thinking of tearing it down completely

Imho, we dont restore. We refresh. Oh there have been many posts on this. Best of luck..rattle can, rustoleum regal red.

 

Glenn

[dells68 7,498]

[WHX?? 49,364]

In case I haven't done so Mike

To answer your question most of us tear down completely strip, primer & paint pieces. This way we can either customize or return things to as original as desired. One can clean up and paint the tractor as a whole as was done at the factory with good results. Lots of masking off to do tho.

[oliver2-44 9,897]

That could make a nice looking Original. Gently tear down, wet sand to bring out the Patina and clear coat

[ohiofarmer 3,277]

19 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

That could make a nice looking Original. Gently tear down, wet sand to bring out the Patina and clear coat

 Agree. If the metal on that hood is fairly straight they look awesome with the old decals. Start sanding with 600 grit with plenty of soapy water. Quickly move to 800 and then 1000 . I use rustoleum 2xMatte Clear finish for the first coat or two, and then sand it flat and then move to Rustoleum Clear 2X in satin. Then sand with 2000 grit and it will buff out by hand with MeQuiars swirl mark remover and then to the finer buffing compound

 

 Before I put any finish at all after wet sanding, I use rust converter to get down in the pitted areas. That way, the rust gets neutralized and then it does not mess up the clear coat.. After 15 minutes, I wash the rust converter off and dry it right away. Then another light sanding with 1000 grit and clean soapy water.

 

 You can try it out and if a patina finish is not for you, just sand off the clear and start over. I suggest you try it out on the back side of your sheet metal just for fun. There is a lot more red color in that paint than you think. Really.

Edited March 29, 2018 by ohiofarmer

[AMC RULES 37,141]

Anyone notice the date on the original post here?