Jtjones 0 #1 Posted April 3, 2012 New member, new GT-14 model 7451 owner here ! Purchased the GT-14 because I was looking for a work horse tractor for towing and plowing. It's in pretty good shape, but not perfect (which is fine by me). I have had some problems getting it running smoothly, but I think I am mostly past that now (needed carb cleaning and tuning). I should mention that I am NOT a mechanic, though I am capable of minor mechanical work, and following directions. I am not comfortable that I would be able to tear down and rebuild the tractor. Now the reason for my post: hydro problems ? Symptoms: - forward and reverse both work fine, hydro control lever works fine - loses power going uphill (slight incline of my driveway, nothing dramatic) - power loss in both forward and reverse - engine RPMs decrease, sounds like it is under a load while on incline - no brakes - tractor can be pushed while running or not, even hydro valve under seat set to "drive" - no forward or reverse drive if hydro valve is set to "tow" - hydraulics work fine - plow goes up and down, down pressure will lift the front of the tractor off the ground. Any thoughts from you most knowledgeable, learned members ? I plan to drain and replace transmission fluid as a first step. Looking for other recommendations on possible causes..... Any questions that will help with a diagnosis and fix, I will do my best to answer quickly ! I have already learned a lot from the forums, looking forward to more ! Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SALTYWRIGHT 859 #2 Posted April 3, 2012 THE FIRST THING IS TO CHANGE THE FILTER AND OIL. WHERE IN CT. ARE YOU ? I AM IN NORWALK, CT. AND HAVE A GT-14 SO MAYBE I CAN HELP. RUSS Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 664 #3 Posted April 3, 2012 Change the oil and filter but it sounds like your hydro pump or motor is nearing the end of its life. The symptoms sound like they are heat induced. The longer you use it, the worse it gets? The problem is you cant really tell what the problem is until theyre disassembled and you can inspect the slippers and swash plate condition. Check out this thread, I just posted it last week about the internals of a pump. Yours shouldnt be that different inside unless its a hydrogear instead of a piston to piston unit. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jtjones 0 #4 Posted April 3, 2012 Thanks to you both for such prompt responses ! I am in Norwich, so it's over an hour from Norwalk. I will try to change the fluid in the next few days if I can make time..... One thing I should have mentioned - the symptoms do not appear over extended use, the power is not there right from the first drive. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jtjones 0 #5 Posted April 3, 2012 By the way, any hints on changing the transmission fluid ? Is it as easy as I think it should be ? I do have an owners manual, but it does not really give explicit instructions on how to do it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,570 #6 Posted April 3, 2012 your story sounds like mine - and with niavety I believed my transmission to be possibly faulty... it pushes with the valve closed - but is much easier with it open. it wont drive with the valve open. And the revs drop as you go up a slope ! I've done a full service and clean - oil change, filter and found nothing wrong. What I do know is keep the engine at high revs, the pump does not like low revs and the charge pressure will be lower. Just try hooking it to a car... mine will pull 2 tons on the flat and spin the wheels when it's immoveable. changing fluid - get it warm, undo the drain bung on the bottom, put the lift lever in float and open and close the ram. If you can be bothered you could do a few turns of the wheels and pump by hand which might force a bit out. Change filter and refill !!! mark Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 567 #7 Posted April 3, 2012 Change the oil and filter but it sounds like your hydro pump or motor is nearing the end of its life. The symptoms sound like they are heat induced. The longer you use it, the worse it gets? The problem is you cant really tell what the problem is until theyre disassembled and you can inspect the slippers and swash plate condition. Check out this thread, I just posted it last week about the internals of a pump. Yours shouldnt be that different inside unless its a hydrogear instead of a piston to piston unit. I think the GT14 has the hydrogear pump/motor....... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,570 #8 Posted April 3, 2012 mine is piston-piston sundstrand... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jtjones 0 #9 Posted April 4, 2012 Went to get the filter, had to order it from the local Toro dealer. Will keep you posted as I get it changed, but still open for other thoughts and suggestions. Thanks all ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 567 #10 Posted April 6, 2012 mine is piston-piston sundstrand... Piston drives didn't make an appearance till mid 1973. I guess maybe there were GT-14's built in 73. Also conversions were made too. I see what you mean. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jtjones 0 #11 Posted April 6, 2012 Hoping to change filter and fluids this weekend (if the filter shows up!). Will report back... But a coupe of questions until then: - if the fill/check valve were loose, would that contribute to a lss of pressure, and a loss of power ? I did find that the valve was not closed tightly. - can the tow valve be too loose (open) and create the same symptom ? BTW guys, I am loving ths forum ! Reading and learning a lot ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jtjones 0 #12 Posted April 13, 2012 Ok, finally able to change fluid and filter ! Already an improvement. How do I know. Have enough fluid in the transmission ? I put in 4 qts, but it's really tough to read the dipstick. Do I bottom out the dipstick to check the level ? Felling good about being ready for some work - this weekend will be the start. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 664 #13 Posted April 13, 2012 Yes JT push the dipstick all the way in. It is difficult to read with clean oil but you should be able to see a line of oil on the dipstick. If not add a bit more until you do see it on the stick. I know my 18 auto calls for 6 qts but it actually fits a bit more. Just dont go too crazy or you will overfill it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jtjones 0 #14 Posted April 15, 2012 Working pretty well but loses power on a slope. Reverse seems to have more power than forward (does that even make sense ?). Lever sticks a bit when using reverse, can be hard to get it out. Makes me think the tranny needs a rebuild. I'm not capable - yes, I have seen the forum posts with instructions, just not comfortable with my abilities. Anyone with ideas or recommendations on reliable, reasonably priced places to have the work done ? Anyone interested in doing it ? I am in northeast CT. Thanks ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,338 #15 Posted April 15, 2012 I've never had a hydro pump rebuilt, but I did have a rear end from a D-160 "freshened up" at Bozrah Power on Rt. 82. Talk to Larry in service. He's very familiar with the older stuff. I actually do all my parts buying there. There's a dealer much closer to me but they are horrible to deal with (my neighbor can tell ya some stories as he still goes there for a regular beating ). Mike........... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jtjones 0 #16 Posted April 15, 2012 Thx Mike. I have been in there (ordered new tranny filter from them). They have a couple of older WH for sale. Will have to stop by to talk to Larry..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jdog_kustoms 82 #17 Posted April 15, 2012 as far as it being hard to get it oput of reverse this sounds like the plastic cam and ball issue these are located on the front or the pump under the panel between your legs sitting on it and also try to have your tow valve half way on either side ( instead of having the little pin forward or backwards try it on the sides) i had a 1968 charger 9 that has the same rear as yours should have and it needed to be on one side to work and other side was the tow position i dont why it was like this but it was and your pump should be the gear to gear i would also takle the belt off the pump and see if the shaft is tight like the input shaft bearings are going out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowtieguy 334 #18 Posted April 15, 2012 - no brakes remember, no brakes because you use the hydro to control the direction of the tractor...you may not have a functional "parking brake" if it is broken....a common thing with GT-14's.....just remember to park it on level ground!...Tom B...show em' a pic of your new GT!!!!!!!!!!!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseWhisperer 243 #19 Posted April 21, 2012 This is why you have no parking brake.I just tore down my electro 12 today and repaired the Achilles heel of old wh hydros.Stupid Pawl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseWhisperer 243 #21 Posted April 21, 2012 Before and after.don't panic and pull the e brake.Your still gonna hit what you didn't want to and you get a bonus " break"! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,570 #22 Posted April 22, 2012 looks just like mine did! (the pawl). The tractor has to be stationary, before engaging the brake.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jtjones 0 #23 Posted April 27, 2012 Update: More reading, and your pointers and I have figured out the braking....can be a bit awkward trying to steer and manage the "go" lever at the same time ! My parking brake works fine - someone modified the lever at some point, so it took some wrangling to figure out how to use it according to their new design . I ended up jumping the belt off the pulley a couple of times as I practiced. I'm no further along on loss of puling power on a slope though, so will probably need to take it to someone for a once over. You guys are great, keep up the good work !! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
obie130 0 #24 Posted June 28, 2012 i have an issue somewhat like yours but my problem is i have good power forward and reverse but the tires will NOT dig if im up against something did you figure anything out with your issues?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jtjones 0 #25 Posted July 3, 2012 No, not yet - I have been able to consistently use the tractor for moving gravel around with no issues, but I have not figured out the real issue yet. I am considering a full service on the hydro this winter. I got an estimate for the work and was told to expect it to take "several months". So for now, using it "as-is". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
