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tommyg

Hot tranny oil d180

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wheeledhorseman

The guys who designed the D series obviously never planned on working on them. An example I made up a hydro test guage to check my charge pump pressure/. To use it you have to remove the battery then rig up long battery cables so you can get it started. do the cold pressure test then put the battery back in work the tractor to get the hydro hot then take the battery back out to put the guage in...

Hmmm.... a book could be written on this subject. The 'Ds' couldn't have been exactly easy to assemble at the factory either!

Anyway, here's the solution I came up with Paul.

I put the battery on the foot rest and discovered that the +ve lead could still be made to reach the terminal.

Then removed the -ve lead from where it normaly bolts and used one of the bolts on the side of the tractor to attach it to the outside of the tractor so it would reach the relocated battery. It's possible that the leads on mine aren't stock but it worked for me.

Andy

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tommyg

Well, here's an update...

Switched over from 10W40 to 20W50. At first, I thought it might do the trick. But as time wore on, the temp climbed to the same level as before and performance was sluggish at best. The only thing I will say, though, is that it may have increased the time to arrive at the 200 deg mark. But I'm not certain.

Anyone know what operating temp I should be looking at for a D180 tranny oil? 150 deg puts me right in the middle of the range, but I don't know it that's where it should be or not.

In the meantime, I may have located a replacement pump. We'll see.

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Hodge71

150 is fine for a temp when youre working her hard . If you start climbing to the 200 mark, its in the serious zone. Dont run it for long at that temp. The best thing would be to allow it to idle and see if the temp continues to climb or begins to drop to a more acceptable level. I would also make sure the temp gauge is accurate. Mine was reading 200-250 and when I checked it with a IR thermometer it was only 120 or so. HUGE difference!!!

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tommyg

Thanks, Jeff. I'm certainly not working her hard. Just mowing pulling a cyclone rake. I can just about get the entire job done before it gets to that level, but to be on the safe side, I think I'll give her a break about half way through and grab a rootbeer. I'm also going to take Andy's advice and check out the fins on the pump (make sure their clean and oil free) and make sure there's nothing clogging the intake of the engine so that there's proper airflow. Every little bit will help. Curious, though... When you checked your temp, did you check the actual oil or just the outside of the pump housing. I would think there would be a significant difference between the two.

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Hodge71

I checked the case temp. There shoudnt be much difference between it and the oil. When the rear is full of oil, that whole case becomes a heat sink. If the oil temp gauge is reading 200 the case should be close, maybe not exactly but within 20 degrees I would say. Paul has the same problem with his D when mowing. After tearing his pump down, he found the slippers rounded over in the shoulder area. I bet yours is almost as bad. One fix I was going to implement on my 18 auto once its running and I get to observe the tranny/pumps operation and temps, was to cut the low pressure return line from the trans to the pump and plumb in a modular tranny cooler/fan combo with temp control. I bet you could cool the oil by 30 degrees with one of them.

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tommyg

Maybe, but it's not solving my problem. Still keeping my eye open for a solid replacement pump. If you hear of one available, please let me know!

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Hodge71

Tommy,

Check Kelly on here. I think I bought his last 1 but he gets more in occasionally. Jordon (Jdog customs) on here also has parts. He just made a big score of different tractors. Another option for you would be a C series transmission. As long as you use the pump and motor together you'll be ok. From what I've been told, you cannot use a D pump with a C motor or vice versa. They need to be used together. Your lines will match up to the pump and motor mating surfaces.

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pfrederi

Maybe, but it's not solving my problem. Still keeping my eye open for a solid replacement pump. If you hear of one available, please let me know!

If you can find a way to ID a solid replacement pump that isn't in a working tractor (so then why would it be for sale) I would like to know how.

All of the pumps (2) and motors (4) i have purchased (some supposedly from working tractors) have had significant issues.

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pfrederi

The guys who designed the D series obviously never planned on working on them. An example I made up a hydro test guage to check my charge pump pressure/. To use it you have to remove the battery then rig up long battery cables so you can get it started. do the cold pressure test then put the battery back in work the tractor to get the hydro hot then take the battery back out to put the guage in...

Hmmm.... a book could be written on this subject. The 'Ds' couldn't have been exactly easy to assemble at the factory either!

Anyway, here's the solution I came up with Paul.

I put the battery on the foot rest and discovered that the +ve lead could still be made to reach the terminal.

Then removed the -ve lead from where it normaly bolts and used one of the bolts on the side of the tractor to attach it to the outside of the tractor so it would reach the relocated battery. It's possible that the leads on mine aren't stock but it worked for me.

Andy

Andy Thanks I will give that a try.

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