Another Newbie question

[dsholler 54]

OK, so I am not only a new wheelhorse owner, but I have also never owned a tractor before at all.

So dumb question.. how the heck to get the blades off the mower deck? I took the deck off (that took a little figuring out, but it was pretty simple in the end. )

I then did what I had done in the past with my push mower.. wedge a 2X4 under the blade and try to loosen the nut with a 12" wrench.. either I am getting wimpy, or this thing does not want to come off. Is this just a matter of more PB Blaster, or is there some trick to it?

(I have a 48" deck on an '87 414... I believe the deck and tractor were together from the beginning.)

[smoreau 658]

Sounds like its rusted on there, You could try some heat on the nut and then try it, I use a dead blow hammer on the wrench to crack it loose and most of the time they come off with out a problem.

[Jim_M 178]

Try some more PB blaster. It's just a standard right hand thread, make sure you're turning the right way. I've had to use an air impact wrench on a couple of them in the past. Most likely it's just rusted on , you'll get it eventually.

[bowtiebutler956 649]

An air impact would make it much easier, but if you dont have one, a 1/2 drive breaker bar would give you more leverage.

Matt :flags-texas:

[AMC RULES 37,102]

Or...make up a cheater...a length of pipe slid over that 12" wrench will also give you a bit more leverage. :dunno:

[SALTYWRIGHT 859]

WHERE IN CT. ARE YOU. IF YOU ARE NOT TOO FAR FROM NORWALK, CT. I WILL COME OVER WITH AN IMPACT WRENCH AND TAKE IT OFF. RUSS

[mrmowitall 8]

The best $10.00 You'll ever spend would be on a blade removel tool. Sold at Sears and other stores. Like everyone else says you'll still have to use a breaker bar or impact wrenck, but you won't have to play with that 2x4. This tool holds the blade from spinning and it won't slip like the board!

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,075]

I've always had good luck with my impact gun. If you dont have a compressor they do make electric ones.

Mike.........

[TT-(Moderator) 1,131]

Made to hold the spindle while loosening/tightening the blade nut:

[dsholler 54]

Thanks all, I am going to give it a go with my electric impact wrench.

@Saltywright, thanks for the offer. I am actually in Westport so not too far, but I need to try it myself it bit more before I call for direct help (rather than the advice I have gotten here, thanks everyone!)

I think the blade remover tool looks like a good investment.

[can whlvr 993]

i had a set once that with a 4 foot bar wouldnt let go,had to cut it off and got new nuts,they were a little stripped so i couldnt get a proper grab,but i used a 4 inch angle grinder and paitience,but usually impact will do it,but needs to be a fairly strong one

[tunahead72 2,386]

... I need to try it myself it bit more before I call for direct help ...

An excellent attitude, you'll get it eventually, and learn something in the process.

I used to use vise grips locked onto the nut, and smack it with a rubber mallet until it cracked loose. It chews up the nuts a bit, but I still have the originals on my deck, so it apparently hasn't done too much damage. Although as I write this, I realize it probably doesn't do the spindles and bearings any good.

I've been using a torque wrench lately, or a regular socket wrench with a 1' long pipe cheater bar, which also works well.

Either way, make sure all your important body parts are out of harm's way if (and when) that 2x4 slips out of place.

To avoid the problem in the future, make sure the threads are nice and clean before you install the blades again. You can spray a little WD-40 or PB Blaster on the threads to lubricate them, or use some anti-seize. If you have a torque wrench, the official spec for the blade bolts is 80-100 ft.-lbs.

[IthacaJeff 151]

Cheater / breaker bar, but mine is 4' long. Make sure the wrench is fully snug on the

nut, the blades are locked tight with the 2 x 4, and go for it. The last time mine were

that tight I used large Vise-Grips, slipped the 4' length of black plumbing pipe over the

Vise-Grip handle, used two screw clamps to hold the Vise-Grips securely to the pipe,

and let her rip. It was almost effortless. You may need to secure the nut at the topside

of the spindle as well.

Jeff

You know, I remember my old HS shop teacher warning us against the use of breaker

bars. Of course, now I see that he was informing us the great uses of them while all the

time covering his rear end with the party line.

[Duff 206]

Made to hold the spindle while loosening/tightening the blade nut:

One of these is worth it's weight in gold!

Duff :thumbs:

[dsholler 54]

Well, PB Blaster and the electric rotary hammer did the trick.. They were not rusted at all (the threads under the bolts are very clean). Presumably I should clean off the spindles and the supports (I do not not know what you call the pieces here.. the things on the bottom of the deck that support the spindles).

The bottom is a bit rusted, but I figure I will scrub it with a wire brush and coat it with some motor oil and it should be good to go..

Looking at the blades again, they look pretty banged up. I have never understood when to buy a new one, so I will just smooth them out and see if I can get it to work..

Stupid question about putting them back on.. do the blades need to be aligned in any way? (obviously, they need to be on correctly, but I mean can I torque them down with one vertical, and the other horizontal for example, does it matter? ) (this from a man who has only ever owned a push mower with one blade)

[Jim_M 178]

The blades on the belt driven spindles aren't timed. You can orient the blades anyway you want.

It's a good idea to balance your blades after you sharpen them. If you don't already own a balancer you can pick one up at your local hardware store, Lowe's, Menards, Wal-Mart, etc., etc. for less than $5.00.

[pfrederi 17,515]

The blades on the belt driven spindles aren't timed. You can orient the blades anyway you want.

It's a good idea to balance your blades after you sharpen them. If you don't already own a balancer you can pick one up at your local hardware store, Lowe's, Menards, Wal-Mart, etc., etc. for less than $5.00.

Or for the truly cheap cut the head of a nail clamp it in the vice and hang the blade on it

[WH854 44]

Made to hold the spindle while loosening/tightening the blade nut:

One of these is worth it's weight in gold!

Duff :thumbs:

I made my own I went to TSC and bought an open end wrench the correct size and ground it down so it would fit in back of the blade. It works fine for me

Chas

[Wheel-N-It 2,968]

An air impact would make it much easier, but if you dont have one, a 1/2 drive breaker bar would give you more leverage.

Matt

I am with Matt on this one. However I use the 3/4" drive stuff for things like this. Harbor Freight has a pretty good 3/4" drive socket set with ratchet and pullbar for about $40 dollars. And one other thing, along with new blades, buy some new blade nuts. The blade mounting nuts wear down over time and few things are more frustrating than not being able to get one stupid nut off the spindle during mowing season.

All this from experience!

Van

[gwgdog66 23]

Made to hold the spindle while loosening/tightening the blade nut:

One of these is worth it's weight in gold!

Duff :thumbs:

Yes they are!! I wrenched one blade off this weekend, and realized my brother had a new 1/2 drive impact wrench in the tool box. That made very quick work getting the other two blades off.

[dsholler 54]

wow.. took me an hour with a file to get a single blade even close to sharp (they would not pass muster in the kitchen drawer, but they are not too bad). Anyone have an opinion about how sharp they need to be?

[can whlvr 993]

i use an angle grinder,or the bench grinder and i make mine very sharp

[BOWTIE 226]

I HAVE ALWAYS USED A 1/2" IMPACT WRENCH SET ON #3 POSITION AT 90psi WITH A GOOD 6 POINT 1 1/8" SOCKET. HOW MANY OF YOU GUYS USE ANTI-SIEZE ON THE THREADS. I HAVE DONE IT FOR OVER 30 YEARS NOW. WITH NO PROBLEMS.

BOWTIE IN OHIO

[gwgdog66 23]

I HAVE ALWAYS USED A 1/2" IMPACT WRENCH SET ON #3 POSITION AT 90psi WITH A GOOD 6 POINT 1 1/8" SOCKET. HOW MANY OF YOU GUYS USE ANTI-SIEZE ON THE THREADS. I HAVE DONE IT FOR OVER 30 YEARS NOW. WITH NO PROBLEMS.

BOWTIE IN OHIO

I use a brass brush to knock the rust off the threads, then use anti-seize when I put them back on.