Cheking Coils and Condensers off tractors?????

[Retired Wrencher 5,435]

:USA: Is there a way to check a coil and a condenser off the tractor to see if it still good. I have a bunch of stuff that I was going thru today . Also I heard you never get rid of an old voltage regulator. can u check these also. Thanks Gary B...................

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

Gary,

the method to check the parts you mention would depend on what tools you have available. Do you have (at least) a multimeter and a few jumper wires? In this case, an analog meter (with a pointer) is a better choice than a digital meter. A digital meter will also work but is somewhat more difficult to interpret the results.

[tunahead72 2,400]

I do!

Is it too late to sign up for this class? :popcorn:

[Trouty56 565]

I would like a seat in this class too.....

[smoreau 658]

Chucks site is a great place for more info on checking these things out. http://saveoldiron.47.forumer.com/index.php

[AMC RULES 37,124]

Guess this means the class has been moved to another room? :scratchead:

[smoreau 658]

I don't think so Craig, Chuck still helps out here, but likes to put the info in at his sight so the info is more available for us to find :handgestures-thumbupright:

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

Just working on rusted and leaking brake lines today. I'll be back later tonight with more details.

A few quickies - make resistance measurements on the primary and secomdary windings of the coils.

Use the onmmeter to check charge characteristics of the condensor.

Hookup the coil to 12 volts and a sparkplug - ground the plug threads and touch the battery negative to the coil negative - spark plug should spark.

[rmaynard 15,403]

Also, a coil that tests okay on the bench may break down and stop working when hot.

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

A few quick checks with the multimeter set on low ohms

(click on image to enlarge)

many low cost multimeters may have difficulty accurately representing a low ohms reading in this range. They main point on reading primary winding ohms is not to have an open circuit (seen as OL or ---- reading) on the meter. The ohms reading will vary slightly from one manufactuer to the other BUT a low reading less than 1 ohm may indicate your winding is shorted or you are using a coil intended for use in a capacitive discharge system . Coils with low ohms primary windings for CD systems will overheat and fail on a 12 volt points based system.

Switch the multimeter to the 20K ohms range (no range change required on AUTO RANGE capable meters)

Measure the secondary ohms reading.

[Retired Wrencher 5,435]

Thanks Save/old/iron. that was very informative Gary B.........................

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

I will add a condensor check and a "live" coil test procedure over the next few days. The condensor check may require a short video.

Stay tuned.

[rmaynard 15,403]

There are several ways to test a condenser with a meter, and I have found that the test is best done with an analog meter, but I will defer to the upcoming video. It should be interesting and as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.

If you want to have the satisfaction of knowing how to check one, then by all means try testing. However, at a price of about $2.50 for a new condenser, I don't even bother to check one that's been sitting around.

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

as always, a caution is needed here due to the presence of high voltages at the tester and at the ignition coil secondary tower area.

[Trouty56 565]

There are several ways to test a condenser with a meter, and I have found that the test is best done with an analog meter, but I will defer to the upcoming video. It should be interesting and as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.

If you want to have the satisfaction of knowing how to check one, then by all means try testing. However, at a price of about $2.50 for a new condenser, I don't even bother to check one that's been sitting around.

A few times on the forum when a member posts an engine problem the reply might state something like...."have you tried replacing the condenser." $2.50 is cheap enough...however I have to drive 30 miles round trip to buy one. The price of this possible fix is now over 10 bucks (and rising). Testing is free. Besides...why throw something out that works???

[rmaynard 15,403]

A few times on the forum when a member posts an engine problem the reply might state something like...."have you tried replacing the condenser." $2.50 is cheap enough...however I have to drive 30 miles round trip to buy one. The price of this possible fix is now over 10 bucks (and rising). Testing is free. Besides...why throw something out that works???

Like I said, test if you want to, but time is also money. I was in the office equipment business for over 40 years. Many studies were done over the years on "replace vs. repair" when it came to modules or components. Replace always won out. I was always one to try to repair, but eventually found that my labor cost almost always exceeded the cost to replace.

The original poster here has indicated previously that he is trying to start a business of rebuilding engines to sell to others. I would think that any rebuilt engine that I buy would have a new condenser on it. If it's for his own use, a used condenser is fine.

As far as cost of parts, I purchase many of my parts from a distributor in the mid-west. The entire order no matter how large is shipped for only $7.95. I can't drive to the auto parts store and back for that. I always buy several maintenance items at a time so that the cost of shipping is spread over many items. Condensers, filters, blades, spark plugs, etc.. A condenser still only costs me less than $3.00 that way.

Don't get me wrong. A big part of this hobby is testing and fixing, and I envy those who can do it.