JamesBe1 82 #26 Posted February 23, 2012 Some models even have an additional brake band on the transmission. Not sure if my C-145 has it as I never bothered to check. If it does have it, I'm not going to bother with it as it seems an unnecessary redundancy. Neutraling (if that's even a word) is a perfectly acceptable braking method IMHO. I believe the failed parking pawl was eliminated and the friction brake replaced it...not redundant but replacement. If you are in a situation where inches make a difference that friction brake could save...maybe a child's life. Adjusting neutral on these machines is very tricky. I've already been pushing snow and backed towards an object, hit the pedal,.......and still moving a bit. Gives you a hairy feeling. Might be the loosening linkage. Now with a brake band that would not have happened. ******Disclaimer.......I'm not positive on my first statement!!!! LOL Sorry if I wasn't very clear. I meant that the friction brake was redundant to the return to neutral action when you step on the brake pedal. I guess it's a matter of opinion about adjusting the neutral position, and it depends a lot on what tractor it is. I have done it on both my D and my C-145. Both times were pretty straight forward and easy once you interpret the manual (which sometimes leave a lot to be desired). And you are absolutely right that inches can sometimes matter. I've come close to being seriously hurt by a matter of inches on more than one occasion. I think the best safety apparatus is between the ears of the operator. Just my two cent worth. James Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,595 #27 Posted February 23, 2012 Modern hydros have the brake band ! it's more reliable... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,595 #28 Posted February 24, 2012 good evening !!! made some progress today... firstly Besides starting first time and running faultlessly I have what I think is an alright transmission. Firstly it it will not drive with the tow valve open, it can however be pushed (happy with that). It will spin the wheels trying to move a 2T Land Rover up hill !!! At full revs and with me stood on the back it did actually start to pull - the transmission was not giving in easily!!! We left it just pulling at moderate revs and with good tension on the rope for 10 mins to get the engine and transmission up to temp, it seemed to behave no differently so I'm a happy bunny!! However, there is still the parking brake to fix.... watch this space......... mark Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
refracman 167 #29 Posted February 24, 2012 Mark, Great news! Just a FYI a hydro should not be operated below 3/4 throttle or about 2800 rpm. Also on the hydro's the brake band does not engauge the brake drum when pushing the pedal down until after its in neutral. It is there as a parking brake more than a stopping brake. Also I doubt you would find any parts of the brake pawl in the bottom of the trans, They are not a cast peice but formed. If you want to repair it you can do so without splitting the trans. You can gain access to by removeing the pump assembly and R&R it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ole MN 11 #30 Posted February 25, 2012 Mark Not use if you know this or not but the parking brake diengages the belt and engages the parking paw. If you have the Automatic Transmisson repair manual for Sunstrand Hydrostactic systems, or if not download it. Go to page 54, item 31 is your parking paw. One of my 14's parking paw was either broken or worn down. It is still there only it is grooved out to the same width as the gear. The PO either tried to put in in gear with the parking brake on too many times or the ajustment was not right anit was jus riding on the gear? Either way if you want to and if that is the problem you could try to weld an a piece or make a new one. For now I just use the parking brake to disengage the the belt and bloke the wheels if I have to. Another thing to check is the pin item 39, for the brake assenbly lever if that pin is sheared your parking brake paw will not work. Brad Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,595 #31 Posted February 25, 2012 Mark Not use if you know this or not but the parking brake diengages the belt and engages the parking paw. If you have the Automatic Transmisson repair manual for Sunstrand Hydrostactic systems, or if not download it. Go to page 54, item 31 is your parking paw. One of my 14's parking paw was either broken or worn down. It is still there only it is grooved out to the same width as the gear. The PO either tried to put in in gear with the parking brake on too many times or the ajustment was not right anit was jus riding on the gear? Either way if you want to and if that is the problem you could try to weld an a piece or make a new one. For now I just use the parking brake to disengage the the belt and bloke the wheels if I have to. Another thing to check is the pin item 39, for the brake assenbly lever if that pin is sheared your parking brake paw will not work. Brad Brad, I have been digesting the sundstrand manual for around 2 months now... I finally split the tranny and heres what I found ! Which is now repaired and ready to go back in when the new seals and bearings arrive.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 993 #32 Posted February 26, 2012 so is what you are pointing at the pawl,sorry never split my sundstrand,only had the pump off,anyway is the notch in that peice wear.and can it be replaced without splitting like mentioned before on this thread?i have a parts tractor with a good pawl,the pump is good too so im wondering how you fixed it,do i need to roba good rear end or can i fix it another way,great job and it will be nice to have a parking brake again,i want to fix the 160,then she will be complete to me Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,881 #33 Posted February 26, 2012 There are 2 kinds pf parking pawls in Sundstrands. The loop one like you see above which I found in my Electro 12 worn just as seen above. The D series (and maybe some others) used a different pawl. More like curved finger with 3-4 teeth in it that engage the gear. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Norlett 3 #34 Posted February 26, 2012 Yes, this is the pawl and yes it has to be split to to clean all the bits out... but if you were very keen not to, then you could get the pawl out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheeledhorseman 574 #35 Posted February 26, 2012 Great news that everything's good with the Sundstrand hydro pump & motor and that you've fixed the pawl as well. How do you manage so much in a weekend? Andy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,595 #36 Posted February 26, 2012 I'm not exactly sure myself Andy... I've also built the simple reg (and blown it up...only had a 12a scr) I've also built my snow plough blade direction lever that was missing! Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
refracman 167 #37 Posted February 26, 2012 When you remove the pump assembly you will have access to wash out any debris on the bottom. Once you remove the assmebly and remove the actuator, useing a long set of 45 deg needle nose you can remove the pawl. Replace the seal, repair the pawl and reverse procedure. I have yet to find a GT14 hub that removed easiely, and found this method to take about 2hrs more or less. Take care with the debris strainer as they are NLA, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 993 #38 Posted February 27, 2012 man im thinking i should do this,i would like to have a parking brake again,where did you get the part,or did you weld it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Norlett 3 #39 Posted February 27, 2012 :greetings-wavegreen: Hi there.answer to how mark gets so much done in a week end.He's got a brother. Raider10 (Ian) and his Dad Norlett (frank).Between us we seem to be able to tackle any thing thats put before us. Bit like scrap heap challenge.And as messy.And yes we welded the pawl.With a hard welding rod.Then ground and filed it. Hope it works OK. It should do???? if not :confusion-helpsos: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 993 #40 Posted February 27, 2012 thanks norlett Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,595 #41 Posted February 28, 2012 I'll try this thread for an answer... looking for the dimension of the woodruff keys that are on the intermediate drive shaft - it's the shaft laid in the bottom of the casing. Boths keys are very distorted and theres around 10 deg of movement in the gears which I want to remove. Key looks like 3/4 x 11/64 on my ruler (not got my verniers at work) but more than likely was 3/4 x 3/16 when new ! can anyone clarify? thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
