seth0804 5 #1 Posted February 21, 2012 Is there another way to identify a kohler engine without have the engine shroud numbers? I think I have a 16hp engine, but not sure! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,519 #2 Posted February 21, 2012 Count the head bolts. K341 (16hp) should have 10, K241, 301, 321 have 9. If you have 9 head bolts, then the easiest way to tell what you have is to pull the head and measure the piston diameter. K241 (10hp) is 3.25", K301 (12hp) is 3.375", and K321 (14hp) is 3.5". K341 is 3.75". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seth0804 5 #3 Posted February 21, 2012 thanks, I will check tonight when I get home!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seth0804 5 #4 Posted February 21, 2012 Another question, I want to repower my c81 with this engine; however, the engine has a different base on it, and looks like only the two bolts on the fkywheel side of the engine will line up on the frame of the tractor. Will this hold the engine good enough??? any thoughts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seth0804 5 #5 Posted February 21, 2012 I was able to get home for lunch and it does have 10 head bolts, another question I have is how do I know if the carb on it is the right one, this engine looks like someone has replaced the carb on it? I was looking at a pinned posted on carbs and it has the number 26 in side the throut of the carb is that correct or should it have the number 28 on it?? thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seth0804 5 #6 Posted February 21, 2012 Also can I use the pto clutch from the 8hp kolher with the 16hp kohler engine and just change the bushing or bearing or is the whole thing different. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,519 #7 Posted February 21, 2012 Another question, I want to repower my c81 with this engine; however, the engine has a different base on it, and looks like only the two bolts on the fkywheel side of the engine will line up on the frame of the tractor. Will this hold the engine good enough??? any thoughts. If you want to use a K341S to power a C-81, you will have to remove the cradle mount and all the associated parts. The base of the K341S mounts with two bolts down through the wings on the flywheel side, and two bolts up through the frame on the other side. The bottom of the oil pan should have two threaded holes if it is a Wheel Horse engine. I was able to get home for lunch and it does have 10 head bolts, another question I have is how do I know if the carb on it is the right one, this engine looks like someone has replaced the carb on it? I was looking at a pinned posted on carbs and it has the number 26 in side the throut of the carb is that correct or should it have the number 28 on it?? thanks The correct carburetor for the K341 should have a 30 on the inside (if it's a Carter). Also can I use the pto clutch from the 8hp kolher with the 16hp kohler engine and just change the bushing or bearing or is the whole thing different. Thanks You can use the same PTO but you will have to use a bearing race that has an inside diameter of 1-1/8". Also you will have to acquire a different drive pulley and some other PTO parts such as a longer hoop and support plate. Other items may be necessary as well such as linkage parts, and belt guides. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seth0804 5 #8 Posted February 21, 2012 Ok great thanks for the info, the base does not have additional holes in base to line up with the pto side of the engine, should I make a bracket to bolt too! and can I use the carb that is on the engine?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,519 #9 Posted February 21, 2012 Do you know what this engine is off of? I would not use a #26 carburetor on a K341. Also, for about $15.00 + shipping you can buy an oil pan that has the proper mounting holes in the bottom. Others have used "J" bolts to attach the PTO side to the frame. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seth0804 5 #10 Posted February 21, 2012 not sure what it came off of, but is painted light green, has great compression. starts rightup idles good where do you get j bolts Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,519 #11 Posted February 21, 2012 I've never used them, but others on here have referred to them. I'm sure someone will chime in later. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seth0804 5 #12 Posted February 24, 2012 what size "J Bolts" should I use on the crankshaft side of the engine? This is for a 16hp kohler being installed in a C81 wheel horse. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
massey 118 #13 Posted February 25, 2012 Places like Fastenal have J bolts. I don't know what size you would need as I haven't done this so hopefully someone with experience will chime in. http://www.fastenal.com/web/search/product/j-bolts/_/Navigation?searchterm=j+bolt&sortby=&sortdir=&searchmode=&refine=~|categoryl3:%22600022%20J-Bolts%22|~ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH854 44 #14 Posted February 25, 2012 Another question, I want to repower my c81 with this engine; however, the engine has a different base on it, and looks like only the two bolts on the fkywheel side of the engine will line up on the frame of the tractor. Will this hold the engine good enough??? any thoughts. If you want to use a K341S to power a C-81, you will have to remove the cradle mount and all the associated parts. The base of the K341S mounts with two bolts down through the wings on the flywheel side, and two bolts up through the frame on the other side. The bottom of the oil pan should have two threaded holes if it is a Wheel Horse engine. I was able to get home for lunch and it does have 10 head bolts, another question I have is how do I know if the carb on it is the right one, this engine looks like someone has replaced the carb on it? I was looking at a pinned posted on carbs and it has the number 26 in side the throut of the carb is that correct or should it have the number 28 on it?? thanks The correct carburetor for the K341 should have a 30 on the inside (if it's a Carter). Also can I use the pto clutch from the 8hp kolher with the 16hp kohler engine and just change the bushing or bearing or is the whole thing different. Thanks You can use the same PTO but you will have to use a bearing race that has an inside diameter of 1-1/8". Also you will have to acquire a different drive pulley and some other PTO parts such as a longer hoop and support plate. Other items may be necessary as well such as linkage parts, and belt guides. Thats strange I have a C-165 that has a cradle on it K341S -71311A The A means special oil pan which it has. The cradle is bolted to the oil pan with 4 cap screws and then fastened to the frame. Also It has a # 28 carb on it, it seems to run ok with it. Chas Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
condo630 6 #15 Posted February 25, 2012 My K301 has "K301" cast on the bearing plate on the PTO side, don't know if that's just a bearing plate or a way to tell them apart. I just did a similar swap and went for a different oil pan. It was very easy and completely worth whatever I paid for the parts, probably $20-30. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH854 44 #16 Posted February 25, 2012 My K301 has "K301" cast on the bearing plate on the PTO side, don't know if that's just a bearing plate or a way to tell them apart. I just did a similar swap and went for a different oil pan. It was very easy and completely worth whatever I paid for the parts, probably $20-30. My K241AS has 301 embossed on the PTO side as well. It can be bored for a K301. I understand they used 301 blocks if they needed them for K241 engines Chas 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOWTIE 226 #17 Posted February 25, 2012 HELLO SETH, MY 1982 SK486 HAS A K341AS KOLHER. IT ONLY HAS TWO BOLTS HOLDING TO THE FRAME. I BOUGHT IT NEW AND UNTOUCHED ORIGINAL. THE OIL DRAIN IS IN THE BOTTOM OF PAN WITH A NEOPRENE (RUBBER) FLEX HOSE COMING OUT OF IT, MAKES IT SIMPLE TO CHANGE. THE PAN IS NOT VERY DEEP ONLY HOLDS A 1 1/2 QUARTS. BOWTIE IN OHIO Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seth0804 5 #18 Posted February 26, 2012 OK thanks for the info, I am going to install the 16hp kohler with the two bolts for now and once everything is in working order I will bolt the other side with jbolts when I get them. I want to add a photo of my wheel horse, but I will not post. Can someone help me with that Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seth0804 5 #19 Posted February 26, 2012 Also the exhaust is 1 1/4 diameter is that correct I picked up some cast iron pipe to do a muffler stack is that a goo idea, I see them on a lot of wheel horses. where can I get the muffler? This kohler engine was originally light green and now someone painted it blue. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #20 Posted February 26, 2012 the exhaust pipe is probably that diameter, but it is referred to as 1" iron pipe. and uses 1" npt threads Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,029 #21 Posted February 26, 2012 Some K341 engines do use a 1 1/4 pipe thread, make sure before you buy the pipe. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seth0804 5 #23 Posted March 6, 2012 what type of muffler has a 1 1/4 id and where can I buy one Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seth0804 5 #24 Posted March 9, 2012 I now have a charging problem on my c81, the amp gauge shows it is charging however, when I disconnect a battery cable the engine stops running, shouldn't it still run on its own? I tested the stator and seems to be good. The regulator is only putting out 2-3 dc at idle. When the engine is revved up it still want to stop running when I disconnect the battery? any thoughts on this matter? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH854 44 #25 Posted March 11, 2012 I now have a charging problem on my c81, the amp gauge shows it is charging however, when I disconnect a battery cable the engine stops running, shouldn't it still run on its own? I tested the stator and seems to be good. The regulator is only putting out 2-3 dc at idle. When the engine is revved up it still want to stop running when I disconnect the battery? any thoughts on this matter? You need the battery for it to run the charging system is for charging the battery thats my Chas Share this post Link to post Share on other sites