Blown Bearing In My Snow thrower too...

[RMCIII 838]

Interesting observation as they are both #79365 5xi snowthrowers! On mine, it was just the outer bearing by the chain.

I wish that the 5xi version had a removable chain sprocket like the #79360/79362 instead of being welded to the shaft. The replacement shaft is $$. It probably is due to the additional torque available with the 5xi different engine designs. 

I replaced my 3/4" shaft with this 7/8" on an old C-Series snowthrower.
http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/7-8-in-x-3-ft-keyed-shaft/A-p8079741e

The 94-7869 shows up as no longer available but if you keep digging it has likely been replaced by 94-7869-01 for $336.42 at Partstree. That is nuts.

I also replaced the bearings with 4-bolt cast iron bearing assemblies and moved the shaft back so I could use a larger diameter driven pulley to slow the auger down. PA also has sprockets that can be welded to the hub of your choice to match the shaft and used a taper-lock pulley. All was purchased for less than Toro wanted for 2 bearings. Probably all made in China but has been good now for about 8 years.

Garry

Yep - main reason why I decided to let the 518 go. Between the blower, and the deck, with all the bearings, belts and what nots the price for these items are crazy. You found that on Parts tree, that price is what Toro has a suggested price to service shops. The actual price for the customer is another 25% on top of that. Then add shipping. I was also thinking of getting a spare auger for the blower when I had it. Scratch that idea, I found the auger, $850.00. < That is nuts!

RMC

[shallowwatersailor 3,214]

I really appreciate the forum members who search out alternative sources for parts and share them online with us. Perhaps Wheel Horse/Toro parts aren't any more expensive than other brands. If you read other forums under any of the brands,  JD owners seem to complain the most. In fact Wheel Horse parts may be even less as they remained so similar through the years. Try to price a plastic hood for a JD! I had a JD push mower and it was $100.00 to replace the 7" plastic wheels! In comparison there are only four items (bumper valance, headlight bezel, dash, and cupholder) on a 5xi that are plastic - even less on a Classic Wheel Horse.

I have also found Partstree to be one of the higher priced suppliers. It just pays to get several prices before ordering. Ironically, last year I found a snowcab for my Ariens snowblower for $56.00 off list - at a JD dealer with free shipping! 

[WNYPCRepair 1,923]

On February 21, 2012 at 3:43 PM, Paul D. said:

In my haste to give you a quick answer I gave you an inaccurate one and I figured I would correct myself before someone else does it for me. Yes. You should tighten up the collar. If you notice there is a small hole on the side.


That is for using a drive punch to tighten the collar against the bearing. You should tighten it the direction it will be rotating when the blower is engaged. Sorry about that.

OK, I am not a mechanic, but I can follow directions. 

Can someone explain the second part of the quote above? 


Oh, and I lucked into 2 of these bearings and collars for $18 each. Woo Hoo! Toro is really proud of them!

Edited December 18, 2015 by WNYPCRepair

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,187]

If you look at one side of the locking collar you will see the counter bore is not round. The inner race of the bearing is extended and has the same out of round shape. When you put the two together they will not rotate within each other. This is the feature that locks the bearing inner race to the shaft so it does not rotate on the shaft under use. Stick a round punch up against the side of the hole in the collar and tap it tight in the direction the shaft is going to rotate and tighten the set screw. The two out of round parts are jammed together.

 

The shaft and bearing are a good place to apply Never-seize.

 

Garry

[WNYPCRepair 1,923]

28 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

If you look at one side of the locking collar you will see the counter bore is not round. The inner race of the bearing is extended and has the same out of round shape. When you put the two together they will not rotate within each other. This is the feature that locks the bearing inner race to the shaft so it does not rotate on the shaft under use. Stick a round punch up against the side of the hole in the collar and tap it tight in the direction the shaft is going to rotate and tighten the set screw. The two out of round parts are jammed together.

 

The shaft and bearing are a good place to apply Never-seize.

 

Garry

 

 

OK, so the hole is just a spot for the punch to grab, and you rotate the collar until it is tight. Correct? 

Next question, does anyone know which direction the pulley turns on an XI series 2 stage blower? I think counterclockwise while looking from the driver's seat, but I'm not positive, and I have the auger half out, so I can't engage it to check.


Thanks for the quick reply, Garry

Edited December 18, 2015 by WNYPCRepair

[doc724 925]

Remove the tunnel access plate on the tractor, Start the tractor and note which way the drive shaft turns.  The PTO will turn in the same direction.  From there you can follow the belt to the blower and see which way the pulley turns.

Forgot to answer your other question, yes the unthreaded hole in the collar is for a spanner wrench to fit so you can rotate and lock the collar.  I just used a straight punch to lock and unlock it

[WNYPCRepair 1,923]

1 hour ago, doc724 said:

Remove the tunnel access plate on the tractor, Start the tractor and note which way the drive shaft turns.  The PTO will turn in the same direction.  From there you can follow the belt to the blower and see which way the pulley turns.

Forgot to answer your other question, yes the unthreaded hole in the collar is for a spanner wrench to fit so you can rotate and lock the collar.  I just used a straight punch to lock and unlock it

 

 

LOL, what am I thinking, I have the belt off the PTO right now anyway. Had to pull it off to drop the blower to replace the chain. 

[WNYPCRepair 1,923]

On December 19, 2015 at 8:17 PM, doc724 said:

Remove the tunnel access plate on the tractor, Start the tractor and note which way the drive shaft turns.  The PTO will turn in the same direction.  From there you can follow the belt to the blower and see which way the pulley turns.

Forgot to answer your other question, yes the unthreaded hole in the collar is for a spanner wrench to fit so you can rotate and lock the collar.  I just used a straight punch to lock and unlock it

Well, I couldn't get the locking collar off to save my life. Using a punch, I could rotate it, but it wouldn't move from it's position on the shaft. I finally put it all together and gave up until another day. Mostly because even if I got it off, I will most likely have to take the snow blower off the tractor, and remove parts of the snow blower to get the shaft out once I finally get the collar off. 

I have to drain the gear box and clean it too, looking inside, the oil looks more like grease. 

[squonk 41,983]

That probably is a special grease. If you put oil in there it will leak

[doc724 925]

If you can rotate the collar it should come off.  Pry a bit behind it with a large screwdriver.  The collar only rotates 90 degrees or so before it locks on the shaft so make sure you have not locked it. As far as an earlier comment about the drive sprocket being welded on-cut or grind the old one off, buy a new sprocket for maybe $25 and pay someone $50 to weld it on.  Way less $ than buying a new one.

[WNYPCRepair 1,923]

2 hours ago, squonk said:

That probably is a special grease. If you put oil in there it will leak

I'll double check the manual, but I am almost positive it said 90w. Actually, it said 80w90, or something like that.

 

 

 

 

2 hours ago, doc724 said:

If you can rotate the collar it should come off.  Pry a bit behind it with a large screwdriver.  The collar only rotates 90 degrees or so before it locks on the shaft so make sure you have not locked it. As far as an earlier comment about the drive sprocket being welded on-cut or grind the old one off, buy a new sprocket for maybe $25 and pay someone $50 to weld it on.  Way less $ than buying a new one.

Maybe I turned it to far, I'll check it again next time I am tinkering around in the garage

 

Edited December 28, 2015 by WNYPCRepair

[mikekot3 93]

My 1028 snow blower uses a special grease in the gear box attached to the augers. I try to find the tube tonight. I believe it was a black grease with moly disulfide in it. I got it from the toro dealer.

[WNYPCRepair 1,923]

On December 28, 2015 at 8:37 PM, WNYPCRepair said:

I'll double check the manual, but I am almost positive it said 90w. Actually, it said 80w90, or something like that.

 

 

 

 

Maybe I turned it to far, I'll check it again next time I am tinkering around in the garage

 

I tried again today, still no go. It is on there pretty solid

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,187]

Is there more than one set screw in the locking collar?

 

Try marking the collar and the shaft to see if in fact it is turning on the shaft. Perhaps you can mark the inner race on the other side to see if the collar is turning on the bearing. That is what you need to accomplish.

 

Garry

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,187]

Here is a picture of a brg and locking collar.

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/3-4-in-bearing-with-eccentric-locking-collar/A-p3870920e

 

Some of these bearings don't have a locking collar. The inner race of the bearing is extended and the set screws are in the extension.

 

Garry

[shallowwatersailor 3,214]

When I replaced the outer bearing on my single-stage last year, I needed to use a 3-jaw bearing puller. Like Garry said, use Never-Seize on re-assembly.

[WNYPCRepair 1,923]

OK, I have the collar free, but the shaft appears to be severely worn and will have to be replaced. It appears the bearing wasn't rotating, as the shaft is worn 1.8 or so under the bearing. I'm off to search for a PN for the shaft.

Found and ordered. Not cheap either

 

Edited December 29, 2015 by WNYPCRepair

[WNYPCRepair 1,923]

Mission accomplished. Now I just need the new shaft.

 

The collar was cranked on too tight, evidently, and broke chunks off the bearing, which locked it on the shaft. As you can see the shaft is worn, although it also looks like it has a spot that was turned on a lathe, which makes no sense. 

 

One of the broken pieces still stuck inside the collar.

[WHX?? 49,969]

Just had to take mine apart, drive chain sprocket lost it's woodruff because PO had Allen wrench snapped off in one of the set screws and the sprocket wasn't tight. Drilling out the broken Allen proved fruitless because  of the hardness of the wrench. The sprocket teeth are real worn so would like to replace it anyway and maybe the chain. Toro is quite proud if them so if anybody has a source for the 113321 sprocket 14tx40 I'm all ears. Also nother stupid question on the bearings.  Mine seem to be sealed so what's the point of the grease zerk?

[WNYPCRepair 1,923]

21 minutes ago, WHX6 said:

Just had to take mine apart, drive chain sprocket lost it's woodruff because PO had Allen wrench snapped off in one of the set screws and the sprocket wasn't tight. Drilling out the broken Allen proved fruitless because  of the hardness of the wrench. The sprocket teeth are real worn so would like to replace it anyway and maybe the chain. Toro is quite proud if them so if anybody has a source for the 113321 sprocket 14tx40 I'm all ears. Also nother stupid question on the bearings.  Mine seem to be sealed so what's the point of the grease zerk?

Is it a two stage?

This is what mine look like in the two stage

Edited January 9, 2016 by WNYPCRepair

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,187]

Look at the enlarged photo of this bearing.

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/3-4-in-bearing-with-eccentric-locking-collar/A-p3870920e

In the groove in the outer race you can see a small hole. That is where the grease enters the bearing.

 

Garry

[WHX?? 49,969]

No Repair...single.......but I'm working on a twosame bearings & collar tho, 7/8 id.... I don't  think mine have got that hole Garry...gotta go check now 

[WHX?? 49,969]

Yup has the hole Garry...you my hero....nother stupid one tho...should the hole be lined up with the zerk on reassembly...I would guess so. This is exactly why I'll gladly give Karl a lousy twenty bucks a year...this info is priceless. I'm so dumb I would have NEVER guessed what that extra hole in the collar was for!

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,498]

23 minutes ago, WHX6 said:

Yup has the hole Garry...you my hero....nother stupid one tho...should the hole be lined up with the zerk on reassembly...I would guess so. This is exactly why I'll gladly give Karl a lousy twenty bucks a year...this info is priceless. I'm so dumb I would have NEVER guessed what that extra hole in the collar was for!

Jim, your not dumb, you just dont know. We all learn here.

 

Glenn

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,187]

The grease will follow the groove until it finds the hole so hole location should not matter.

 

Garry