hub puller

[can whlvr 993]

here is a pic of my home made hub puller,as you can see its fairly simple but effective

[AMC RULES 37,134]

Ahh, I wondered what that looked like, nice and simple. Thanks for sharing. :text-datsphatyo:

[dclarke 4,033]

Good idea Don, I may have to make one of those. :thanks:

[WH854 44]

Here is another one here is the link

Chas

[pfrederi 17,876]

Or something like this if you have a hard time lining up the holes. Old hubs with messed up keyways are cheap...

[Martin 2,133]

Or something like this if you have a hard time lining up the holes. Old hubs with messed up keyways are cheap...

now thats a really good idea....... :thumbs:

[AMC RULES 37,134]

:text-datsphatyo:

[can whlvr 993]

i wish i had an old hub when i made this,woula saved some time making this one

[Kelly 1,029]

This is one I built a few years ago, 1/2" plate lazer cut with a 7/8" nut welded on it, and a 7/8" grade 8 bolt, I use 3/8" grade 8 bolts and nuts, so I don't pull any threads out of the bolt holes, I use a 1/2" drive impact to remove them, sometimes I have to heat the hub, but never had one not come off.

[bowtiebutler956 650]

Sure wish I would of had one of these when I was rebiulding my B-80, one of my axle hubs was out farther than the other on mine, so I decided I would loosen the set screws and smack it in a little further with a hammer, bad idea, all I accomplished was to smack it and watch the axle on the other side come out of the trans and land on the floor. I had to tear the whole thing apart just to reinstall the clip. I have to make one of these in the future. Great Idea!

[can whlvr 993]

thats a nice neat lookin puller kelly,i didnt want to cut mine,lazy but then i realized it wasnt needed,i use heat also for the tough ones ,and yes to the grade 8 bolts,

[JC 1965 1,530]

All of these are very good ideas guys thanks for sharing. :thumbs2:

[Wyattrrp 59]

Interesting inovative models of hub pullers that all seem to work well.

My problem on my '81 C-125 is the hubs that came with it had single set screws centered on the Woodruff Key, which should provide a good bite area. After about 20 yrs both started to allow the hub to slide freely inward luckily, or the wheel would fall off while moving if sliding outward on the axle. The set screw was very tight, yet it obviously did not bite into the key enough. When the hub slid in stopping against the Unidrive housing, the woodruff key is almost out of the hub, allowing the key to rotate 45 degrees, enough to be out of the key slot enough to let the axle spin freely and stop turning the wheel. Feels like being in neutral. At first thought the Unidrive failed? So you are stuck where-ever you are, snow plowing etc, with the axle spinning in the hub. Not as simple as shoving the wheel and hub back out as you might think. The key wouldn't rotate and slide back into the slot while pulling on the wheel. So I had to remove the wheel / hub where it was, meaning removal of wheel weight & tire in the snow, then reset the half round key and remount the hub while the key is horizontal. About 8 yrs ago I bought a new hub from Toro dealer $58 (ouch). Even that one loosened up enough to slide over even though the 2 screws felt very tight. I got new set screws and torqued the screw hard to bite in. Still the axle has a very light indent from the set screw but tke key has a good ring cut in now.

A short while ago I bought a C-85 for parts. Luckily it too has 1 1/8 axles. It also has 2 double set screw hubs, that are clean and never moved from their appearance. I decided to take the left hub off to replace the left single screw hub on my plow C-125. I worked 2.5 hrs with penetrating oil, heat and a large 3 prong gear puller, tapping pretty hard on the inner sides of the hub near the screws, not along the axle length to avoid the C ring issue warned about on here many times. I let it set with P. Oil overnight and reheated it. Wouldn't move a mm.

I came on here and saw Paul F's photos of his puller and was trying to do the math to see how long the 3/8 bolts and 1 inch bolt should be, before heading to TSC. Figured I have the single screw hub I am taking off the C-125 I can use (that one practically falls off itself) and not worry if it is wrecked (assuming I can get the other 2 parts tractor hubs off as replacements, eventually). Then I decided to change strategy and try removing the parts tractor right side hub. With the gear puller, it took 30 seconds to remove with ease. Go figure why the left was stuck so hard and the right was just short of a hand removal. Of course my luck I picked the challenger side first #@$*%$

I know one thing, if am in need of using that left hub off the parts machine, I will definately make one of these pullers shown in this thread before wasting another 2+ hours!

Thanks for providing all the handy tips on this site. They are tried and true time savers for sure.

Just thought I'd let you all know the hub issue isn't entirely a removal issue. It is also a sliding issue on some, that will allow the axle to spin freely when the hub has slid enough to let the key come out. If you think the tranny just let go and a gear is not engaging so the tractor wont move while in gear, check the spacing of the inner side of the wheel hub and the Unidrive case. It should be over an inch space in between. The outer side of the hub is flush with the end of the axle on mine. When slid in, the axle sticks out of the outer side of the hub an inch and the key gets rotated 45 deg or can fall out entirely. Not sure why it slides inward but glad the 3 times it happened it was in, not out having the tire fall off, making a WH Trike.

Pictures and dimensions are great when making these inovative tools and addons. Thanks to all who donate their ideas. SOmeone will surely benefit from them if not now, then in the future.

Wyatt