I can't get the stupid pin! I'm going to break something!

[Old Ways 30]

I'm going out of my mind trying to get this thing out. I took the trans out of my Commando 8, so that I could get to the pin for the hitch. Today I cut one side of the pin short then started to drill it out, and on my 3rd bit size up, it gets snagged, throws the trans over and snaps the bit inside the hole! I have tried everything, Heat & Hammer, large pipe wrench & pipe for leverage, drilling, pneumatic hammer, what am I doing wrong? I am about to just smash this thing with a hammer and throw it in the pond. Any help would be appreciated.

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,315]

Dont touch it anymore today! Attack the job tomorrow with a better state of mind. Did you jump up to many drill bit sizes? That pin has been in there (bonding with the tranny case) for 44 years so its not uncommon for them to be stuck real good like yours.

Mike...........

[Old Ways 30]

I'm away from it for today, I'm not real happy at the moment. There is no way to get this thing off. Would it help at all if I set the whole thing in diesel fuel or another chemical?

[CasualObserver 3,408]

Here's some helpful old topics. It's just patience and time.... or a sawz-all.

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php/topic/10557-why-would-anyone-do-this/

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php/topic/8735-hitch-pin-removal/

[Paul D. 26]

Ball Joint press. I believe you can barrow one from Autozone.

[AMC RULES 37,130]

You can do it, we can help. :thumbs:

[Martin 2,132]

I just cut to the chase and get the saws all out. Cut the pin both sides of the center section and remove the hitch. Then work on the rest of the pin that's stuck in the trans. If your lucky it will come easier. Use a little heat. I've got two that way. The last one was the 5058 on the 1057 and it was a workout. Support the trans ear and get a good drift to beat on that pin. If you've got a press, that would be even better.

[kpinnc 12,016]

Keep what Sparky Mike in mind when you try again. As frustrating as those old pins can be, what will be even worse is if you break the case by striking in too hard. Ask me how I know...

Cast iron is very strong, but almost brittle when struck. It WILL break, and then you've got an 80lb paperweight. in addition, striking the end of the pin will swedge it out inside the case, making it even less likely you'll remove it.

Just take your time, and good luck!

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,330]

I took the advise of one of the members here VinsRJ (I think). He said mix tranny fluid and acetone 50/50 and then soak it with that for several days. I have an old variable drive pulley soaking right now. It has worked for me in the past. Try heat, then soak it, heat, soak it etc. Good luck-

[dadstractor1 5]

i have driiled alot of them dadstractor

[pfrederi 17,734]

Not a pretty way but I used and it worked, as a last resort Take the sawzall and working from the rear bottom cut right on the seam between the case halfs.Cut up through the pin but no further. There will be plenty of case left between the cut an the interior for the gasket to seal the case. Then split the case take out all the gears and use a 20 ton press to push the pin out make sure you support the case all the way around the pin while pressing. Like i say last resort but it works.

[Old Ways 30]

Not a pretty way but I used and it worked, as a last resort Take the sawzall and working from the rear bottom cut right on the seam between the case halfs.Cut up through the pin but no further. There will be plenty of case left between the cut an the interior for the gasket to seal the case. Then split the case take out all the gears and use a 20 ton press to push the pin out make sure you support the case all the way around the pin while pressing. Like i say last resort but it works.

Ok, this will be my last resort.

I think I am going to try and borrow a Ball Joint press, or buy one, and re-fill my torch.

[wheelhorse656 20]

is the pin stuck in the hitch or is the pin stuck in the trans? or both

[SMITTY 23]

Just to add another question. Had the same problem finally bet the pin out but have had a transmission leak ever since. This is on my hydro do I have to split the trans to fix the leak?

[Raider10 3]

Anything that tight is always difficult. As kpinnc rightly says, hammering away on one end of the pin will just splay the end and make it tighter still. Ive found heat is often the only way, providing you don't heat the pin up too. I work on plant machinery and recently had to repair a telescopic handler which is used for loading salt and had to half blow a pin away with the gas axe followed by half an hour hammering away with a mini excavator with a hydraulic breaker, before it finally gave way.

If youve only tried from one end then try cutting the other end, apply some heat, if poss, and have another go.

Patience is a virtue. good luck. :UK:

[Old Ways 30]

It is stuck in the trans, I cut the hitch off to get to the pin (have 3 more hitches).

[Road-Track 39]

:eusa-think: Everyone go out to your tractors and put Never Seize or what ever lube you use on your pins right now! Make it a yearly PM item

Good luck! :twocents-02cents:

[mack 904 3]

If you have a good torch get the rear case red hot. Then hit it with the garden hose until its cool. That will crystalize the rust and the pin will remove easily. That is how I get the pins out and the hubs off the axles. You have to cool it as fast as possible. Works real good and won't hurt anything unless you bump the oxygen button.

[Paul D. 26]

I don't know if I would be heating it up red hot. You may crystallize the rust but there is also a good chance you may make the case itself brittle. I heat treat steel at work all the time and after heating a piece up that hot you never quench in water. Some steels require air hardening some require oil hardening but water cools it so quickly that it would be equivalent to taking a Pyrex glass pan out of the oven and putting it in a sink full of cold water. If you don't believe me try it with the pan not the tractor. Pans are much less expensive. Mack you may have had good luck with this in the past but it seems like way to big of a gamble :twocents-mytwocents:

[Duff 206]

Everyone go out to your tractors and put Never Seize or what ever lube you use on your pins right now! Make it a yearly PM item

Good luck!

Amen on that, brother, Amen!!!!

Duff :thumbs:

[Old Ways 30]

Everyone go out to your tractors and put Never Seize or what ever lube you use on your pins right now! Make it a yearly PM item

Good luck!

Amen on that, brother, Amen!!!!

Duff :thumbs:

Once I get this one out I'm drilling and tapping for a grease fitting...

[Rooster 191]

I don't know if I would be heating it up red hot. You may crystallize the rust but there is also a good chance you may make the case itself brittle. I heat treat steel at work all the time and after heating a piece up that hot you never quench in water. Some steels require air hardening some require oil hardening but water cools it so quickly that it would be equivalent to taking a Pyrex glass pan out of the oven and putting it in a sink full of cold water. If you don't believe me try it with the pan not the tractor. Pans are much less expensive. Mack you may have had good luck with this in the past but it seems like way to big of a gamble

Paul, I understand your theory, but we are not working on glass and we are not heat treating. this practice has been in use for years . I do it alot taking old tractors apart. You will not fracture the case.

There are also some instances when water is used to quench, but not many.

[tunahead72 2,412]

Just my 2 cents...

It's probably not worth the trouble to install a grease fitting, and you could damage something in the process.

All you really need to do is clean and grease the pin real good when you put it in, check it every once in a while to make sure it moves freely, and take it out once a year or so to clean it and grease it again.

[Rollerman 290]

Just my 2 cents...

It's probably not worth the trouble to install a grease fitting, and you could damage something in the process.

All you really need to do is clean and grease the pin real good when you put it in, check it every once in a while to make sure it moves freely, and take it out once a year or so to clean it and grease it again.

Agreed & if you destroy your pin removeing it in the process....you did end up cutting the hitch off right?

Run to TSC or what ever farm/hardware store you have local & replace it with a 3/4 hitch pin.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/hitch-pin-3-4-in-dia-x-4-1-4-in-usable-length-0269109

Unless your going after a "concours restoration" & are set on the original look.

The hitch pins are anodized, slightly undersized & work really well on the back of a Horse for holding slot,drawbar or clevis hitches.

For what it's worth I've cut many of these pins out when there stuck, alot easier to remove seperatly from the trans & hitch than try to drive through both in my opinion.

[Old Ways 30]

I cut the hitch right off. Probably not the smartest idea, but it worked, and I made a small cut between the two sides of the trans, and got it to split, I am going to get a BJ Press, or let a friend press it out for me.