truckin88 104 #1 Posted January 27, 2012 My FIL has a 88 or 89 520, the attachment lift will not go up and down until the tractor is moved forwards or backwards. This is only from a cold start, is this normal? If not any recommendation. Thanks, Will Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,134 #2 Posted January 27, 2012 Seems I've read some machines experience this symptom, but not all. Let it warm up for a couple minutes before trying the lift. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,029 #3 Posted January 27, 2012 Two of my 520's in cold weather do that, one takes about 2 min. to warm up, the other if real cold out take 5 min. before it will lift the blade, but they will move forward almost right away. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
otrelwood 32 #4 Posted January 28, 2012 I'm glad mine acts that way before warm up , the guy that gave me the 520h with deck ,plow wheel weights tire chains and manuals said the pump was shot and he didnt want to fool with it .We've been plowing snow chuckin and mowing with this bad pump for about 3 or 4 years now ! it's the one that started my addiction.So far all we've done is service it and put tubes in the tires Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,316 #5 Posted January 28, 2012 It must be an Eaton thing. My will go forward and back, but it takes a little bit to get the lift to work. Been like that since new, so it's not even an age thing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,405 #6 Posted January 28, 2012 I think every tractor has its own quirks and personality. My 416 (Eaton 1100) will both lift the plow and move forward almost instantly if I wanted it to, but I still let it run for a bit before pulling out of the garage. Mike........... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevebo-(Moderator) 8,351 #7 Posted January 28, 2012 I agree. You always want to allow it to warm up in the cold weather prior to moving it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 664 #8 Posted January 28, 2012 My 416(Eaton 1100) moves almost immediately too if I make it. I like to let it set at a "high idle" for about 5 minutes before using it though. She sits outside instead of a garage so its worth the small amount of gas to make sure its a happy camper hydro wise. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ericj 1,578 #9 Posted January 30, 2012 my one 520-h had similar problems, would take for ever to move front or back or lift the deck, if the deck was up and you hit the up lift lever the deck would drop. i was even considering replacement of trans.but i decided to try a oil filter change, even though the oil and filter looked good. it made a big difference and now i am happy with the way it works. now only takes a short time to warm up. i'd try a filter and oil change first. Toro has a service buliton out on this it is called loss of prime. it calls for drilling a small hole in the pump. the bulliton tells you how to do it and how to check your tractor to see if that is your problem. if i recall properly you jack up left side of tractor slightly and let sit when you start the tractor if it moves that is not your problem. check the bullitton for all the proper info some body on here can probably give you a link to it. i have it in an email but don't know how to post it on here. eric j Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zieg72 209 #10 Posted January 30, 2012 my one 520-h had similar problems, would take for ever to move front or back or lift the deck, if the deck was up and you hit the up lift lever the deck would drop. i was even considering replacement of trans.but i decided to try a oil filter change, even though the oil and filter looked good. it made a big difference and now i am happy with the way it works. now only takes a short time to warm up. i'd try a filter and oil change first. Toro has a service buliton out on this it is called loss of prime. it calls for drilling a small hole in the pump. the bulliton tells you how to do it and how to check your tractor to see if that is your problem. if i recall properly you jack up left side of tractor slightly and let sit when you start the tractor if it moves that is not your problem. check the bullitton for all the proper info some body on here can probably give you a link to it. i have it in an email but don't know how to post it on here. eric j I would like a copy of that if you can. My 92 works right away but my 97 takes a few minutes before the up and down works. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 993 #11 Posted January 31, 2012 my 312hydro(1100)eatonworks instatly even when outside temps of minus 15,it has tranny fluid,not 10w30 (my machine has tranny,probally changed at one time) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ericj 1,578 #12 Posted February 1, 2012 zieg92 email me @ e69gts1@gmail.com and i'll try to forward it to you ericj Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,145 #13 Posted February 1, 2012 If the tractor will move immediately but the hydraulic lift takes a little while to function, it is not loss of prime. I have not bothered the folks at Eaton about this behavior since it seems fairly common. This is only my theory, but I think charge pump cavitation has a lot to do with the immediate lack of lift. Once the fluid becomes more viscous, it is picked up by the pump, the auxiliary circuit pressurizes, and the lift functions normally. There is an obvious audible change in both the tranz and engine in both of my Eaton 11-equipped machines when they're ready to go. I don't even bother trying until I hear the hydro unit "groan" and the engine rpm "pulls down". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hydro 131 #14 Posted February 1, 2012 I think lighter oil makes the hydro work more quickly. I switched from 10W-30 to 5W-30 and there is no delay although I do let it warm up a bit. Mine is in an attached garage and I prefer to move it outside to let it warm up so of course the sooner I can get it there the better. I just don't like the idea of the engine running indoors even with the door up. My 416H wouldn't do anything for a few minutes until it warmed up. I do wonder if I will loose anything running on the hotter side in the summer with the 5W-30 instead of 10W-30 or 40 as called for? :scratchead: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dwcphoto 7 #15 Posted April 1, 2012 You guys are running 10-30 or 5-30 in your Eaton 1100? Thanks, dwc Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hydro 131 #16 Posted April 1, 2012 I have 5W-30 and if my friend is correct the first number is for the low temp, the second for the high temp. I will wait and see but it worked geat this winter but of course it wasn't much of a winter! I might try a 5w-40 at some point. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dwcphoto 7 #17 Posted April 11, 2012 Hi Guys, I'm putting an Eaton 1100 on my 518H. So far, so good. It seems like the control arm lever is not set up right. Do I need to replace this part too? thanks, dwc Also, do you have a model number for the 520H? thanks, dwc Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dwcphoto 7 #18 Posted April 11, 2012 Okay, one more question>>> I'm not using the hydro to lift attachments.If I just plug the holes then it won't benefit from the filter, so I need to bypass this. Has anyone done this? If so, how did you do it? Eaton 1100. Thanks, dwcphoto Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,344 #19 Posted April 11, 2012 Get a hose made with the correct swivel ends and make a loop. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dwcphoto 7 #20 Posted April 11, 2012 Thanks. I found a place locally to get a hose made. Anybody know anything about the control arm when switching from a 700 Eaton to a 1100 Eaton on a 518 H? thanks! david Share this post Link to post Share on other sites