Windolph in the snow

[js5020 111]

Beastly,,, I like it.

[eb in oregon 28]

Here is the situation as it stands today. I had spoken with two mechanical engineers regarding the selection of 4140 for the shaft material. Both only said that it should be professionally heat treated. I found a heat treat business that was relatively close and spoke with one of the guys on the phone, explaining my problems, needs, and hopes for success. Dave told me that the 4140 might not be the best choice for the application as it heat treats HARD all the way through, and it had a possibility of fracturing, and heat treated cold rolled might do the job. However Dave thought 8620 might be a much better choice.

 

So I made another cold rolled shaft and took both sets (two of 4140 and two of cold rolled) in for heat treatment. Met-Tek got them back to me within two days. Exceptional service, and they gave me a discounted price too. A surprise, but I was grateful.

 

I had to straighten the shaft I was going to install first, it was just a little bent, enough that it was difficult to install. I also had to fit the 3/16ths key stock as the groove had shrunk a few thousandths. I welded the assembly after getting it positioned correctly with 3/32 E6013 rod at around 100 amps. The assembly went in with no difficulties, other than being a little "fiddley." I re-assembled the tractor's right track assembly and spent several hours working on the blade lift mechanism as it isn't the best in geometry and doesn't lift the blade high enough to drive around the yard without scalping several areas while moving around.

 

I had also made a turn buckle assembly in order to adjust the clutch levers, as the original rod assembly allows no adjustment. I had spent a good day and a half of work making the end pieces and had ordered a left hand tap and die for the assembly. I took a break from the blade lift and went to "play" with the clutches. After working the clutches about another 15 to 20 times, the right turn buckle, left hand end piece buckled. At the same time I heard a snap. Fearing the worst, and feeling slightly sick, I removed the clutch shaft, and sure enough, it had fractured just under the weld. The 4140 is too hard, the welding changed the properties of the shaft under the weld, and I have to start right back at square one. I don't trust the cold rolled shafts as the heat treat process basically left the end that needs to be welded soft. I think it would twist as did the entirely un-treated shaft. I think I'll entertain the idea of making entirely new clutch shafts and crank arms that I can spline instead of weld. It just gets better and better.

 

 

 

Edited December 17, 2013 by eb in oregon

[Lawn Ranger kid 14]

Any new updates with the clutch shafts?

[eb in oregon 28]

I decided to go to a larger diameter material (3/4 of an inch) as any mechanical means of retention that I would consider wouldn't work with a 5/16ths shaft. Nothing there to work with. So it would be splining or what I went with, a cross bolt. Because of the holiday season the material didn't show up until around the 23rd. On the 26th I cut two shafts, turned the majority to a .624 diameter (+/- .0005, leaving 1 1/16 of an inch at 3/4 diameter) and for some reason I had a great deal of difficulty getting a good finish. Doesn't matter, the finish is adequate for the application.

 

 

I machined two new crank arms for the shafts from some hot rolled material I had on hand (from my friend Richard) that was bored to one thousandth of an inch under the .743 that the shaft measured. I think they will be plenty strong enough and they don't look too bad.

 

 

I pressed in the shafts, orientating the groove for the 3/16th key to the arm within a degree or two the original and drilled them for a 5/16ths shoulder bolt. The cross hole was drilled and reamed to .3135 (measured with gage pins; .313 pin "go," .314 pin "no go") and took the shafts in to be case hardened to around 55 Rockwell on the "A" scale to a .03 depth. They should be ready this afternoon.

 

I'll assemble tomorrow and post the results within a week or so. If this breaks I'll make two more out of one inch material.

Edited January 3, 2014 by eb in oregon

[eb in oregon 28]

I finished the new shafts and installed the right assembly. After testing it for a short while and thinking that it would be fine, I "buttoned up" the differential, filled the right reduction box and differential with gear oil and took it out. I'm not going into the left side until I'm convinced I've solved my situation.

 

 

 

In the process for making the two new shafts I also reworked the blade lift assembly. Originally I had much more "digging" ability than clearance with the ground in the "up" position as the geometry was a little off. Now I've much more "lift" than digging, but the digging should be adequate.

 

 

 

 

 

I pulled some bush's that my wife wanted out, practiced grooming on one of the paths around our property, and tried a "drag device" I made some years ago that the Kubota TG1860G didn't like to pull. I'll need some "stick time" to become better acquainted with the Windolf and working it to it's abilities. My friend Richard had come over to see how things were going (he's given me a lot of advice, material and parts, and help during this project) and he took it for a spin around the yard. I took a short video but can't seem to upload it. We both think there are still some issues with the right clutch. I think it's because it is slightly bent and that has changed the geometry for disengaging the clutch. It doesn't completely disengage to our estimate, but I'm not taking it apart again unless something breaks. And there is still an issue with the throttle, I'm working on a new throttle assembly as there is a surging issue with the engine that I believe is a result of the throttle shaft bending. I had a problem with the surging at first and made another throttle assembly out of gas welding rod to check my theory. The test assembly worked, but it is too weak because of the small diameter and stretches some, not allowing the governor to work properly. So that is tops on the list to rework next. I'm also going to make another set of turn buckles to adjust the levers as the first set had an issue with bending of one of the ends.

 

 

So that's where this project is.

 

Edited January 8, 2014 by eb in oregon

[Lawn Ranger kid 14]

Those new shafts look nice! Wish i had the equipment to fabricate things like that maybe someday.

[eb in oregon 28]

It took me 35 years to build this shop and fill it with tools.

 

 

 

 

 

This picture of my Bridgeport was taken the other year while I was waiting for a new speed dial to arrive (the original's printing washed off during cleaning) and I was still getting the wiring sorted out, so the cover is off the breaker box. I was also in the process of rebuilding the "Y" axis power feed. Both machines also have a DRO installed now.

 

I have a gas welder and a stick welder too, but I'm out of practice and need to "play around" some as though my welds "stick," they're a little ugly.

 

Thanks for the kind words.

Edited January 7, 2014 by eb in oregon

[shorts 182]

nice shop, wish I had the machine tools.

[C-101plowerpower 1,605]

eb, that's a really freakin nice shop you got there, i wish i had the funds and space for a shop like that

 

Koen

[Lawn Ranger kid 14]

Very nice shop!

[eb in oregon 28]

nice shop, wish I had the machine tools.

 

 

eb, that's a really freakin nice shop you got there, i wish i had the funds and space for a shop like that

 

Koen

 

 

Very nice shop!

Thank you for your kind words. This is "off topic," but you deserve a reply.

 

My shop is a little less than 24x30 on each side and is now about 14 years old. As we all do I bought hand tools through the years. I'm still working with the hand wrench's, sockets, and screw drivers I got after I left the active Army in 1974. Through the years I bought what was needed as needed. Sometimes I was given tools by my brother (especially when he moved out of state for a few years) or other folks. When my wife and I moved here 30 or so years ago, my shop was the basement. We had a long single car garage a little wider for half of it, in the downstairs. I had both welders, an Atlas Lathe loaned to me by a friend ( a year or so after we moved in, and for about 10 or so years after that), and an Enco Mill/Drill that I bought around late 1990. In 1999, my wife thought we should have a two car garage as in really bad weather we could only garage one out of two vehicles. Seemed like a good idea. Because of the topography of our property, the contractor proposed a building with three 10 foot walls. A steep bank you see. "How much more for a full basement and a "good" floor?" Oh, we can pay that. So a new two car garage with a full basement and a "good" floor. After a roll up door, a "man" door, plumbing for air tools, electrical service, and moving all my tools, I had a new shop. The cabinets came pretty quick too. You can do that after you've paid off your home and you have no kids. The Atlas lathe went away in 2008 and was replaced with an import. I couldn't begin to buy a new Clausing lathe and have it shipped from the East coast. The Mill/Drill (with upgrades of an "X" axis power feed and a cheap DRO) went away after I returned from overseas. I had some cash and the Bridgeport came up on auction from one of our states colleges. I bid minimum and no one else did. I brought it home for a price that still makes me smile.

 

I've also worked as a machinist for most my adult life, as well as a few years as a Generator Mechanic for the federal government. So I've got some hand tools. Some I may never use again, but I've got 'em, but you never have them all. And through all that I bought stuff for my machine tools when I got a wild hair. I like my shop and tools a lot, but one always wants a few more square feet and one can always think of a new tool that one may need.  

 

Again, thanks for your kind comments.  

 

Eric

Edited January 7, 2014 by eb in oregon

[dodgemike 52]

A shop a Bridgeport and lathe. Do

You need some extra relatives?

Just kidding. First class work when

All you have to.go.by are broken or

Worn out parts. You are re engineering that thing.as you go.

Very few people have the patience

Or knowledge to turn that into a

Useable piece of machinery. A

JOB WELL DONE!

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

[dodgemike 52]

As a side note, my cousin horn

Swagled my Dad's 9 1/4 south

Bend out from under me. It had

All the tooling, steady rest, follow

Rest, etc. That was 40 years ago

And I'm still a little ticked!

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

[dodgemike 52]

Don't mean to hijack the thread.

Does anyone remenber the

Dakota Sprocket cup? It looked

Like half a main bearing and you

Ordered your application and

Welded them in each worn drive

Tooth. Supposed to be the cats

Meow at the time. Dont know if

They are still available, but with

Your machinry and skill you could

Make your own.

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

[TT-(Moderator) 1,131]

There is nobody else interested in this? Nobody else has any input? Then what's the point?

I'm interested and enjoy the progress updates, but I'm getting grumpier and more anti-social in my old age. (or so I'm told ) 

I have not given up on wanting a Smithy 3-in-1 Combo machine for my small home shop and I'm still trying to talk the boss in to (at least) a decent lathe for the shop at work. A few trips to the local machine shop would easily cover a decent chunk of the price of a used lathe - not to mention the downtime saved by being able to machine a needed part 24/7.

[dodgemike 52]

I try the same thing. If I had I

Would just use it!

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

[eb in oregon 28]

9d598cf5cd415a19f2063e21272a22ed Edited January 8, 2014 by eb in oregon

[eb in oregon 28]

 

There is nobody else interested in this? Nobody else has any input? Then what's the point?

I'm interested and enjoy the progress updates, but I'm getting grumpier and more anti-social in my old age. (or so I'm told ) 

I have not given up on wanting a Smithy 3-in-1 Combo machine for my small home shop and I'm still trying to talk the boss in to (at least) a decent lathe for the shop at work. A few trips to the local machine shop would easily cover a decent chunk of the price of a used lathe - not to mention the downtime saved by being able to machine a needed part 24/7.

 

 

The concept with "Forums" is that they are a conversation. This requires both "give" and "take." While I do want to share what I've been doing with my tractor, its seems that a comment from others would be appreciated. Not too many people enjoy "talking" to themselves, and those that do usually deserve a rubber room. And after a while, if one does not get many responses or comments, one gets tired and goes somewhere else.

[dodgemike 52]

I know it is not a Wheel Horse,

But I am interested! Of course

We all lust after your shop, but

That aside it is an interesting

Piece of equipment. Most people

Would have sold that for scrap

By now. I enjoy all types of equip

Ment. I am sure you have seen the

Old D2 cats with the pony motor

To start them. You were supposed

To like one track so if it ran away

With you while starting it, it would

Go in circles till you caught it:mellow:

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

[AMC RULES 37,130]

Very interesting thread Eb...    

I too have been following your progress since the beginning.

Please don't stop now.  

[Wheel-N-It 2,969]

Very interesting thread Eb...    

I too have been following your progress since the beginning.

Please don't stop now.  

Same here. Just reading your postings has been quite a learning experience for me. Thank you.

[eb in oregon 28]

Very interesting thread Eb...    

I too have been following your progress since the beginning.

Please don't stop now.  

 

 

 

Very interesting thread Eb...    

I too have been following your progress since the beginning.

Please don't stop now.  

Same here. Just reading your postings has been quite a learning experience for me. Thank you.

 

 

Thanks for your interest, that makes me feel better. It has been a much larger project than originally envisioned. I was "good" up until I had difficulties re-engineering and manufacturing the new clutch shafts. While I had zero doubts that I'd get them made, I was feeling kind of depressed that all my knowledge and skills seemed to account for squat for a few weeks. And I hadn't anticipated that I'd be this far into it so soon (like almost immediately after driving it off the trailer) to this extent. But the new shafts appear (so far) to have made the grade. I'll need to put some more hours on the machine before I'm finally convinced I've got the metal strength issue resolved.

 

I've still got a small issue with the right clutch throw out fork, and I think that it is a matter of it being slightly bent. It changes the geometry of the fingers in relation to the bearing in the amount of force required to disengage the clutch. The only fix's that I can think of are to disassemble the entire right side (a requirement in any case), remove the fork, heat and bend the fork to match the approximate angle of the left fork, and re-heat treat the fork. Or to make one out of fabricated and welded pieces, which would also require heat treating. I don't think so at the present time.

 

The weather has been wet, wet, wet these last few days, so I've occupied myself with some other projects and spent some time on the gun range. I've ordered a 3-48 thread die and tap (I'm pretty sure I've already got a tap, I just haven't found it yet) to fabricate a new linkage for the throttle assembly. The old assembly was 3/32 rod that was bent up with a "dog leg" that was inserted into the governor arm, ran back through a guide bolt screwed into the side of the block, and had a section of small spring and chain that was pinned to the throttle knob assembly. It was impossible to change the position of the rod in the governor's lever without just about removing the entire governor assembly. No, I'm not gonna do that. I bent and removed the assembly and replaced it with a short section of gas welding rod to test my concept of a replacement. It worked just fine, but was too weak. So as soon as the die shows up I'll be making a stronger assembly. I'll make a small "fork" that threads onto my new rod and attaches the spring to the governor lever. Before the "dog leg" went through the lever, but it couldn't be changed. If I use the spring to engage the governor lever, I can attach it to my little fork and then I can change the position on the governor at will. I decided to make the threaded fork as the hole through the guide bolt is a little small to bend up a loop for the spring and get it through the hole in the bolt. I'll take pictures as it progresses. A picture is worth a thousand words.

[dodgemike 52]

Eb. Did you get your new governor

Rod made yet?

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

[eb in oregon 28]

The die I ordered was defective. It wouldn't cut for two sticks. A 3-48 thread (as per machinery's handbook) has a maximum diameter of about .098 of an inch. The rod I was trying is 3/32, which has a diameter of .093 of an inch. The die wouldn't start, or remotely begin to cut. I've had dies that were sometimes a little hard to start as they were getting dull, but never a die that refused to cut right out of the package. And I had made a holder for the die from 1 inch cold rolled steel. The on-line store I bought it from was sorry and refunded my funds and sent a return UPS label.

 

As 3-48 dies are a little used item, they must be special ordered from someplace. I didn't want to wait again, and after looking at the pictures of the manual I have, decided to use 1/8th inch stock. I drilled a .035 hole through the center of one end, about a sixteenth from the end, then cut it to length, bent it in about the right place for clearance through the back housing, and bent a loop for the chain on the end. The chain goes in-between the throttle assembly and the rod, which provides adjustment. One end of the spring goes into the hole in the rod, the other attaches to the governor arm.

 

I took the Windolph out for an hour or so yesterday to drag one of our paths and several other places in the yard. The steering isn't all that I would have hoped for and I was still having issues with surging. I tried several different settings, but I think I'll need to read the book again to try and figure out exactly what the problem is. I'm on the right track I think, but I've got a little ways to go before it is running without surging. Its tough getting in there to adjust the linkage at all, let alone when the exhaust manifold is hot. Burned several holes in my gloves trying to make an adjustment. I didn't see much point of taking pictures of the rod and spring assembly, but I might later.

 

 

 

And the thought has occurred to me that the pictures of the lift mechanism may need a small explanation. The assembly was (I believe) fabricated from the old mechanical lift levers. The vertical lever, originally welded to the end of the axel had been torch cut and re-welded. It was flat, with another section welded on and a brace added. I cut all that apart outside in the cold with a cutoff wheel (scaring the crap out of myself as the grinder I was using exceeded the RPM limits of the wheel and one "blew up," cutting a five inch gash in the upper garage wall. Pay attention Eric!) and that took several hours of work. I re-used the vertical lever, but I had to heat and bend it with a "dog leg" to get the cylinder to line up. It wasn't all that "lined up" in the first place. The issue was fender clearance and lift geometry. My older brother helped me and we positioned and tack welded the assembly three times (cutting it apart twice when we weren't happy) before we were satisfied with what we had. In the picture it sort of looks like it is out of alignment, but it is as vertical as one can get it with a square and tape measure.

 

But really, I'm almost ready to pressure wash it, throw on some paint and put it on Craig's List. This is getting old already.

Edited January 19, 2014 by eb in oregon

[Stormin 9,981]

A lot of good work gone into that. Well done.