How to make new insert bearings for your snow thrower

[rmaynard 15,588]

If you are rebuilding your snow thrower, many models from the 60's, 70's and 80's, use the same bearings for the chain drive shaft.

ST-323, 6-0200, 6-0201, 6-0202, 6-6212, 6-6213, 6-6214, 6-6215, 6-42ST01, 66-42ST01, 76-42ST01, 86-42ST01, 86-48ST01,

98-42ST01, 06-37SB01, 06-37SX01, 06-42ST01, 06-42ST02, 06-42ST03, 06-42ST04, 06-42SY01, 06-42SY02 and others.

The bearing part numbers are 107743, 100908, 101702, 101781, or 1968. If you have checked, you probably found that replacement bearings from Toro cost you around $60.00 each.

These are the bearings that are inserted into the 3-bolt flanges that hold the shaft on either end. They look like this:

The inside diameter is 3/4", and the outside diameter of the widest part of the outside is 52mm or 2-1/32" +/-. This is called an insert bearing, and the outer housing is curved so that when inserted into the flange, it's allowed to self-center.

Here it is in the flange

To replace both of these bearings will cost at least $100 with shipping if you buy them from Toro.

If you search for this bearing online, you will find that a 3/4" inside diameter insert bearing is available, but with an outside diameter of only 47mm, or a little under 1-7/8", which is too small to properly fit into the flange.

Here is my solution. I purchased insert bearings with a 7/8" inside diameter. This bearing has the proper outside diameter of 52mm. I also purchased bronze bushings with a 3/4" ID, and a 7/8" OD. I removed the 1/4-28 x 1/4" set screws, and pressed the bushing into the new bearing. Then I drilled and tapped the bushing, and inserted two new 1/4-28 x 5/16" set screws.

My total cost for two new bearings, which now is a perfect fit for the flange, was $30.00 which included shipping.

On my snow thrower, the outer bearing (closest to the chain) was attached to the shaft with a 1/4" roll pin. Since these bearings only come with set screws, I rotated the shaft so that the set screws avoided the holes in the shaft. There is really no need for a roll pin at that location.

7/8" Insert bearings - UC205-14, $5.63, Bearingson.com

3/4" x 7/8" x 1-1/4" SAE 863 Bronze Sleeve Bearings, #2868T172, $2.51, McMaster & Carr

1/4-28 x 5/16" Black Alloy Steel, Cup Point Set screws, $.11 each, McMaster & Carr

All the prices are plus shipping.

Hope this helps someone to get their snow thrower running quietly and smoothly again without having to spend an arm and a leg on Toro bearings.

[Kelly 1,029]

Bob glad you got it figured out, I was looking at the parts blowers I have for the flanges to fit the small bearing , but no luck.

[AMC RULES 37,134]

Very gracious contribution Bob. :thanks:

[dclarke 4,033]

Bob, I think this bearing/bushing combo will also work on my SMS-425 sickle bar. Thanks for the info.

[rmaynard 15,588]

Bob, I think this bearing/bushing combo will also work on my SMS-425 sickle bar. Thanks for the info.

Yes, it will. Those part numbers cross over.

[dwayneGT 6]

On a side note, I did the same thing on my GT 14's idler pully for the trans drive belt. I found the correct dia. pully at Tractor Supply but the inside was 3/4" and I needed 5/8. so I used 5/8"x3/4" bronze sleeve. Works perfect

[sorekiwi 761]

Bob, I think this bearing/bushing combo will also work on my SMS-425 sickle bar. Thanks for the info.

That is exactly what I did on my sickle mower Denny. Several years of service on it now, with no issues.

The only thing I did different was to use a piece of steel tubing instead of a bronze bush.

If you dont want to mess with ordering the bearings through a bearing house, TSC does have the (7/8" ID ones) on the shelf, I'm thinking I paid less than $20 apiece for them

[dclarke 4,033]

Thanks Mike!

[seth0804 5]

wow thanks for the info I will do that, does the flange come apart or do the bearing pound in?

[rmaynard 15,588]

The flange comes apart.

[buckrancher 2,694]

Bob, I think this bearing/bushing combo will also work on my SMS-425 sickle bar. Thanks for the info.

yes

[Tap53 57]

You can also get speedi-sleeve's for bearings that are to loose for the hole lock-tite them in. $3-4.00, thousands of sizes available.

Believe they wont work in your case..

Good Fix

[RedHorseFan 1]

For an insert, you may be able to use a piece of standard 3/4" copper plumbing pipe.. I have used this trick several times in the past.

[dclarke 4,033]

Bob, I'm rebuilding a snow blower that I just picked up and referring to this thread saved me a lot of time. Thanks again!

[Martin 2,133]

Bob, like Denny, I'm rebuilding (or more accurately finishing) my 42ST-01 and came across this thread while searching. thank you for a great solution......

[mmmmmdonuts 274]

Thank you for the information on the bearings. I am in the midst of replacing one now. My blower is the 6-6211 model and it is on a 1968 Raider 12. I have the original bearing still on the shaft it is just moved way down and I can't seem to get it off and the set screws are striped. Is the best bet to drill it out? Or is there an easier way? Also I removed the pulley from the shaft to replace the bearing furthest away from the shaft. Is the key for the pulley removable? Otherwise I don't know how to get the bearing or sleeve on. Any tips? Thanks.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,090]

The key should come out. They are a Woodruff key so the bottom is 1/2 round. If it wasn't seized you could tap one end down and the other end would come up. Lots of penetrating oil and a bit of heat should help. You don't want to hammer it too hard because that swells the key wider in the slot making it tighter. When you get one end up tap that end lengthwise to finish rolling it out of the hole. After that a new key and Never-seize is on the order.

 

Set screws are hard and hard to drill. It can be done with a good bit, slow speed and lots of oil. Not likely room to cut the bearing in half with a grinder and cut-off wheel? Know anyone with a cutting torch?

 

Just remember to coat everything with Never-seize so it is easier next time.

 

There is a file here in the manuals with the Wheel Horse key part number to Woodruff # so you can get one locally. Let us know if you can't find it.

 

Garry

[mmmmmdonuts 274]

Thanks for the help. I won't be able to get a chance to look at it until Friday, but I bought some replacement drill bits in case I snap anymore of them.

[diamondred 63]

Anyone know the flange bolt circle diameter? Might be able to use these....

 

 http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/3-4inch/Kit8859

Edited March 4, 2015 by diamondred

[mmmmmdonuts 274]

I know I used the 52mm flange from tractor supply which matched the outside holes: http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/3-bolt-round-stamped-steel-flange-1-1-8-in-dia

 

I tried using the 47mm from tractor supply and it was too small to match the outside holes. (I believe this is the size you linked)

 

I used the following to make mine in addition to the flange:

 

SA205-14 7/8 bearing insert   http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/insert-bearing-sa205-14-7-8-in

 

Then I cut a piece of 3/4 copper pipe type L as an inner bushing as it almost matches the 7/8 to 3/4 bronze bushing that would be needed.

 

A handy insert bearing chart: http://www.bearingoutlet.com/products/mounted/inserts/csa/index.htm

 

Update: added the bearings chart

Edited March 4, 2015 by mmmmmdonuts

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

Will the flanges support having a zerk installed? The flanges on my 5xi snowthrower have zerks. It is also a 1" I.D. bearing.

Edited March 4, 2015 by shallowwatersailor

[WHX?? 49,145]

Just thought I would update this thread with some modern day pics...no Bob @rmaynard we're not saying your old just your thread!  Like was mentioned this was done on a snow blower but applies to anything with hard to find insert bearings. Note these are 7/8 ID but need to go on a 3/4 shaft. My research showed that the correct ones are still available from Toro ....at anywhere from 60 -90 bucks apiece. That's nuts & and I am (sometimes) cheap.

 

Bearings from here, 6.50 a piece with a little for ship,  they have the needed 52mm OD to fit the 50 yo flanges.

http://bearingson.com/category/insert_bearings/uc_insert_bearings/78_insert_bearings_uc205-14.asp?page=1&SortType=0

 

Bushings from McMaster
2868T172

https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/1175/=18ycui0

Bout 2.50 each shipped with some other needed hardware

 

some pics

 

 

 

Carefully press the bushing into the bearing until centered  -  use a little oil to help, it is a snug fit.

Don't forget to remove set screws first!

Use a small starter bit then up to about 3/16". Be care full when working around the existing threads.

Next using a 1/4-28 tap rethread the set screw holes. Should take little to no effort.

Blow off the chips with compressed air ...try and not blow the chips into the bearing (they are sealed BTW and NOT re-lubeable)

Edited August 15, 2017 by WHX12

[WHX?? 49,145]

Like Bob I picked up some longer (3/8") 1/4-28 set screws just because I wanted more meat on the table so to speak.  

 

That's it ...ready for assembly on to whatever it is you are working on. This just happen to be a sickle bar mower. Easy and saved some serious coin in the process!

Edited August 15, 2017 by WHX12

[peter lena 8,719]

bob , excellent choice and upgrade on this issue. getting after a regular issue is the way to go. I  think the snow blower maintenance and regular lubrication are key ,to have it work like it should. I know since getting mine , it has shown me what it likes. Regular check over and chain and cable lube ,make it work without effort, or wear . pete     

[moe1965 744]

I ran into the same problem. I bought a replacement bearing with the holders. The ID was the same but the OD was a little bigger. I took a file and made the square mounting holes on the blower a little  bigger.  I'll try and find a part number. Cost was about 10 ea