uh oh

[specialwheelhorse 174]

Whatever you do don't EVER under any circumstance put an engine together without

using plastiguage to check clearance on rod and journal. More than once.

Jim

[Cole 25]

my mistake i was overeacting, the engine was probally running about 3800 rpm when my dad was adjusting the carb, when i looked at the rod the journal didnt have scratches would running 3800 make the crank be junk, and i dont know if i already told you guys this but when the engines running, the knock comes and goes, as i said, i will be taking the engine apart within the nextt 2 weeks.

[AMC RULES 37,132]

Hey Cole, I think the guys are saying to take the battery out, and hide the key from yourself before it's too late. :scratchead:

[Cole 25]

i finally found my surgery date, this weekend, i have baught a used crank for my engine on ebay so if i need one im ready, i baught it for $20.00 so if its junk, i didnt really get screwed. funny craig.

[Docwheelhorse 2,669]

Why would you buy a used crank on ebay for $20 when the chances are it will need machining too? Like I said.... you need to STOP and EXAMINE what you have and what you have done..... something was put together wrong right from the start. You sound like your guessing and spending good money after bad. I appreciate you are trying to learn, print the Kohler manual and sit and read through it. The reason the knock comes and goes is because as the crank spins the rod changes direction (piston goes up and down) The knock is the slop being taken up when the rod goes from pulling the piston down and then switches and goes to pushing it back up.. You will get a knock in both directions and it will vary based on speed and load.

Tony

[Cole 25]

i have printed and read the whole manual already and it says that the crankcase oil level is low, or there is an excessive load on the engine and i dont have a big load on the engine and i used two quarts of oil just like the manual says, and the dipstick reads full so theres something wrong with the inside, and i will be informing you guys about it on friday.

[Callen 64]

I would check your piston to cylinder clearance too. Chances are good that the oversize rod beat your crank out of round.

[Rollerman 290]

i have printed and read the whole manual already and it says that the crankcase oil level is low, or there is an excessive load on the engine and i dont have a big load on the engine and i used two quarts of oil just like the manual says, and the dipstick reads full so theres something wrong with the inside, and i will be informing you guys about it on saturday.

This manual?

[rmaynard 15,519]

...so there's something wrong with the inside, and I will be informing you guys about it on Saturday.

This is what we have been telling you. You have to take the head off, and the oil pan off. Then you can remove the piston and connecting rod. Then you need to do the following:

Unless you want to take the engine apart to remove the crankshaft, just take the block with the crankshaft in it to a machine shop.

Take the piston and connecting rod to the same shop.

Take the Kohler K-Series Manual with you. (Any good shop should have a specifications chart, but just in case.)

Have the crankshaft journal measured for size and out of round.

Have the inside of the connecting rod measured for size and out of round.

Have to cylinder measured for bore, out of round, and taper.

Have the piston measured for diameter, and out of round.

A good shop technician should be able to tell you what is the cause of the knocking after taking the measurements.

Be prepared to pay for the measurements. My local shop charges $25.00 for the service, but will apply it to the final bill. Some will do it for free if they are sure they will get the work later.

[can whlvr 993]

my guys dont charge for measuring if you get a bore done,but they are pricey compared to some of the prices you guys pay,i paid 150.00 for bore,turn crank,measure everything

[Cole 25]

yes that manual, sounds good after i get the engine all apart and cleaned i will be taking the following to the machine shop, piston, rod, block, crank

[Cole 25]

hey guys, I started tearing down engine today, what I have found is there is a plastic govenor gear, when I checked it it seems to have a lot of up and down play, the shaft for it is a 3/8 drill rod, are they supposed to be loose like this, if not should I replace it with a steel gear or another plastic, as i spin it it sounds like the knock, could this be the culprit???

[Cole 25]

got the crank to a machine shop and they said it was .005 out of round, yep you guys were right so now im gonna see if the crank i got on ebay is any good and if so, it will be used, im still wandering about the play in the governor gear if thats some of the knock or if its perfectly normal.

[Cole 25]

i think i found the tick, could it be the automatic compression release weights that are making this sound? i have already confirmed its not an exhaust leak.

[can whlvr 993]

so i have a 12 hpthat im putting together and my governon gear is snug on the shaft,being a part that turns on the cam it would have to within tolorances so it doesnt wobble and finally blow apart,brian millers site has steel or plastic,and i didnt look but the plastic may be still avaiable from kohler,sorry about the crank,sounds like a 10under rod needed and crank turned to match,so i looked and the .005 is right on the edge,thats the # in the manual,but its apart now,i know sometimes engine rebuilding can be a little frustrating when you dont do it often(like me)

[Cole 25]

thanks for the info i will be purchasing a new cast iron gov. gear, does anyone know about the ACR flyweight ticking or would it be easier to just take them off?

[rmaynard 15,519]

...does anyone know about the ACR flyweight ticking or would it be easier to just take them off?

Don't take them off. Starting will be a lot harder. Ticking is normal when turning the crank by hand. Once the engine reaches 300 rpm, centrifugal force holds them out and the clicking stops

.

[Cole 25]

ok so when i get the engine running with the new gov. gear that means that hopefully this engine wont tick or knock and will sound perfect, just like yours. :)

[rmaynard 15,519]

ok so when i get the engine running with the new gov. gear that means that hopefully this engine wont tick or knock and will sound perfect, just like yours.

Every Kohler K-series has a little internal noise. That is unavoidable. But there should be no banging or knocking with properly machined and fitted parts. That includes your governor gear, cam, rod, piston, valves, guides and crankshaft.

[buckrancher 2,679]

you do realize the max rpm on a kohler k 6hp and larger engine is not to exceed 3600

[Cole 25]

ok, yes i do realize the max rpm is 3600.

[Cole 25]

thank you guys, i got the engine all put back togather today figured out the tick, it was where the tappets where worn down where the valves ride there was a ridge, so i gapped the valves by the gap between the camshaft and the tappets and that was it, then i fixed the crank, turns out the guy that had this before me had the crank turned .010 and i didnt know this and i first baught a standard rod in the rebuild kit put it in,and you guessed it, beat the crank out of round, soooooo, last week had the crank taken to a machine shop with the service manual and had the crank taken down .020 for 40 bucks and he even was nice enough to polish where the seals ride for free. now i currently have a new $50.00 .020 rod in it, the engine has not ticking or knock, FINALLY so now i have the gov. spring in the original holes where the engine ran perfect before the rebuild and the gov. will take the engine like i am moving the throttle up and down but im not, the throttle cable is also adjusted right. what else could be causing this, i just hope its not something internal after i had the engine all apart. maybe its the new gov. gear i baught because the old one was plastic and was worn down, but the new gear came straight from kohler. i just dont know.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,131]

You have the Kohler service manual, correct?

"Resetting" the governor lever and adjusting the carburetor would be a good place to start.

[Cole 25]

yes i have the kohler service manual, i just reread it on how to set the gov. paddle (lever) and that was the problem, thank you everyone on redsquare with helping me get through this rebuild, it took some drama but now i can enjoy it, i will be posting a video and pics of the engine running today.

[Cole 25]

well here are some pics of the .020 shaft and a video of it running.

http://s1092.photobu...nt=MOV04520.mp4