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Similar Content
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By RJ Hamner
Has anyone found a good source for gold plated (not the thin plated stuff) male/female connectors?
And/or weather proof connector housings?
I’m still not sure if this was under engineered, or they didn’t think the product would last this long (couldn’t envision the Wheel Horse Collector's Club)
Asking for me and a friend
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By JAinVA
Started the day prepping the garden to plant potatoes.The 416-8 and middle buster got 125' of rows opened up.Next item on the list was to paint the engine and tins on
the 312a loader tractor.Take the crane tractor and spot oak rounds at the splitter. Once split load the cart behind the 416h and bring wood up to the house for stacking.Load saws and go back to the downed tree to bring more rounds to the splitter.Rinse and repeat.I'm a little tired but greatful for the seat time.These little guys earned their keep today.
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By mikekot3
My 416-8 tractor I have repowered with a small engine warehouse Briggs and Stratton 23hp vanguard engine two years ago. This week the tractor ran fine and I cut most of the grass until it rained out. I thought I would finish the lawn the next day but I will not run correctly. The tractor will crank but will not start. I have replaced the spark plugs and fuel filter already to no avail. I removed the spark plug and used starting fluid in the cylinder but It did not help any. When cranking the engine is the clear fuel filter housing supposed to fill up most of the way? It seems to be only filled about 1/4 of the way. I found a bad terminal in the engine to chassis 9 pin molex connector for the starter which I bypassed until I get a terminal remover tool. I bought a new molex connector body and terminals for this type of repair a few years ago. Another weird thing is when it did start and run in the past the switch is turned to start I have to turn on the head light switch for it crank over. Once it started I would turn off the head light switch to disengage the starter. The switch and head light trick has been working for two years. I am presuming I put the wrong terminal in the wrong spot in the 9 way connector 2 years ago but I worked fine other wise for two years. Is there any other trouble spots I need to test on the tractor?
I have a fluke dvom for testing purposes if needed.
Thank you in advance.
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By Muddyfeet
BeOk first off I have a older 80 400 series . Was my father's and I am attached to the old lady.. it Was running ok..
This year after a year outside it just will not start. I am Not a mechanic so working blind.
I have the seat switch bypassed, also the PTO saftey switch. Replaced a lot of little parts,.Don't know if there is something else . so.. history aside.. cranks no start.. using a test light.love my test light.. fixed a lot on some older engines with this.. anyway. Test light not meter. I get power to the points. Power. To the + end of the coil.. a flashing on the neg side of the coil when cranking.. I do get power after cranking on the neg end of the coil.. the two posts not where the spark plugs wires come out.. I do see A white spark seen and heard at the points when cranking and if I pull the points apart when not cranking .. using test light or inline spark plugs test nothing. have not done the pull plug and ground to see.. but using test light I put in on the cable no light.. no light on the coil tower either.. I replaced the coil, condensor and points like 8 years ago I think.. it was hard to start and I was using the manual..
So no spark if power to the coil but nothing out equals bad coil right?? Well the local shops quote for 280 for a coil was a shock. . but looked online hard to find but a little less..
Cannot rember what I spent before..
So worth buying a coil and if so may as well replace points and condensor at same time?? Am I missing something?? Got power going into this and nothing out as I can see.. but heck what to I know..
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