RJ-58 Mid Mount Harrow / Cultivator Idea... Check This Bad Boy Out

[71_Bronco 1,072]

So last night my mind was racing a mile a minute. Couldn't sleep even cause I was thinking about this idea. Finalized it in my head, and when I got in today, I modeled it up.

My idea was a mid-mount, adjustable spike "harrow" for the RJ-58. Designed more for looks then use though, but I bet it would tear up some serious dirt. Part of me wanted it mean-as-hell looking.

The concept is this. Make 2 plates to mount to the frame just behind the front wheels, and have the thing "dragged" by that. I also had an idea to make it a solid link to the lift handle, so you can control how deep it goes by just pulling harder or softer on the handle.

I think the design came out wicked cool. Building it wouldn't be that hard, but materials would cost allot.

So what do you guys think? Feel free to give suggestions, comments, etc.

So without further ado, here it is.

[ol550 830]

So what do you guys think? Feel free to give suggestions, comments, etc.

It's a good thing you got that idea out of your head before them spikes

did some real damage. Or was it too late? Looks like it would do some real

damage to whatever you drug that thing accross. Kind of like a scarfer

but not quite as aggressive unless you put a foreward curve to the spikes.

[71_Bronco 1,072]

One improvement I already see would be to flip the spikes to the other side, the "mounting plate" side of the arms. As it is now, you are relying on the U-Bolts to hold the spikes in place. If you flip them to the front, you would have the 2x2 box steel pulling them through the dirt.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,146]

Remember - there's only about 7.5" between the bottom of the framerails and the ground on the mid-engined tractors.

[Rooster 191]

Even with them in the front they still pull on the u-bolts.

The contact is below the tube, so the spike would pivot on the bottom of the tube, pulling on the u-bolt.

The thing will pull itself into the ground, the spikes are 90* to the tube, which means when you lower it they will be pointing forward, ulling down on the front of the tractor and burying themselves deeper. If you snag a rock or something, your stuck!

Why not drill holes through the tubes for the spike, eliminating the pressure on the u-bolt. Drill them at the correct angle and the spikes will be pointing straight down, eliminating the tendency to "dig in". If you do hit something solid, they will push up.

I Like the fold up design!

[71_Bronco 1,072]

Rooster, I like your idea with the holes in the tubes. The "spikes" are 3/4" diameter with a 1 1/2" head on them. The only issue I see with putting holes in the arms is then how would you hold them down, and prevent them for pushing out the top? I hear what you are saying about the 90* angle of them and pulling itself down harder.

TT, right now, the "spikes" are 8" long overall. The main tube and the arms are both 2" x 2". If I shrink the length of the spikes to about 6 1/2" or 7", I would think it would be pretty good.

I did this all from my mind, with no measurements off my RJ, so whether or not this would even bold on, I am unsure.

[Rooster 191]

A bolt over the top, with a tab maybe?

[CasualObserver 3,410]

I would think you'd want at least two inches of clearance for transport, and maybe three. Otherwise you'll snag the spikes on any slight bump, and with no relief room it could be ugly.

Overall, I think it's an interesting design, but I think you're only going to want it to be about 4-5 inches tall total.

[AMC RULES 37,144]

As Paul Sr. says..."get to gettin." Don't forget to post up the action video. :happy-partydance:

[Rooster 191]

SO 71/2" clearance, 5" max height...if it snugs up against the frame...2" tubes, leaves 3" of spike.

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,382]

The cost of materials to work from scratch will be costly. :ph34r:

[IthacaJeff 151]

What do you have in mind for the spikes? The pics look like big 'ol 8" barn nails, but I can

testify that they will bend surprisingly easy. Also, you may want to re-think the angle of the

frame. Stuff that is dug up may tend to roll toward the middle of the "V" and accumulate there.

If the shape is reversed the material will more likely roll to the outside and be deposited free

of the harrow.

Jeff in Enfield NY

[Rooster 191]

When in use does it not fold out straight?

[SousaKerry 502]

looks a lot like the brinley cultivator I have, how about railroad spikes for the tines

[71_Bronco 1,072]

When in use does it not fold out straight?

If you look at the main center tube, you will see different holes for the cross pin. It has holes along the main tube to adjust the angle of the "wings". According to my model, they can be straight out (flat), 15* forward angle, 30* forward, 45* forward, and then all the way closed.

Being in a machine shop, I was thinking of turning the spikes on a lathe out of some strong material like 4140 steel or maybe even O1 or A2. Not sure if they would be more prone to snapping rather than bending if I do them in a tough steel like that.

And yes SteveBo, material for this would be pretty pricey. Just came up with the idea and thought I would share. Like I said too, it was designed more to look mean than actually be functional.

[Rooster 191]

What are we calling Pricey? I would think under the $100 range, if that? Is that "pricey"

Not being smart , really an honest question, being a newbie to the hobby I am not real sure your guys scale on what is expensive or not?

4140, O1, A2...will all hold a point well, but so will 1018 with a little heat.

If you do snag something hard...wouldn't you prefer the spike bend or break instead of the harrow frame or worse, something on the Tractor?

Id use a Mild Steel.

[71_Bronco 1,072]

What are we calling Pricey? I would think under the $100 range, if that? Is that "pricey"

Not being smart , really an honest question, being a newbie to the hobby I am not real sure your guys scale on what is expensive or not?

4140, O1, A2...will all hold a point well, but so will 1018 with a little heat.

If you do snag something hard...wouldn't you prefer the spike bend or break instead of the harrow frame or worse, something on the Tractor?

Id use a Mild Steel.

I agree on the material for the frame, to be a mild steel. The only issue I see with using a soft steel for the spikes is if they bend during normal use. I can see the point about bending if they hit a rock, but I wouldn't want to stick it in the ground and have them bend right off the bat. I think the larger diameter (3/4") would help reduce bending.

Also, not sure if you guys noticed, but all the pivot points are designed to use 3/4" diameter "hitch" pins, similar to the one shown below. This way there is no bolts (except the ones to hold the plates to the frame), and will also make it super easy to disassemble.

[Rooster 191]

Ohh, that reminds me...to keep your spikes in, drill a hole and put a pin in them.

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,382]

I would say you are in the $200+ range for the materials.

[can whlvr 993]

i would use 3/4 rebar,its cheap,replacable and strong enough for what your doing,i made a few spike drags over the years and the one with 3/4 rebar never bent,and they were longer than 3 inches

[Paul D. 26]

Looks like a great start