sorekiwi 761 #26 Posted December 15, 2011 (edited) That top gear looks really good. Check the internal teeth (splines?) that it engages with as well. The reverse idler is a bit beat up. They usually are. I'd just dress it up with a grinder though, try to put a ^ shape on the end of the teeth to help it guide itself into mesh. Looking at your pics I guess I push my bearings in a little further, so they are almost flush with the outside of the case (take a look at how they are on your untouched 1054 box. Dont think it matters though as long as they are below the machined surface on the inside of the case - it looks like they are in your picture. Now the interesting part - your input shaft bearings. The 4 speed case I have in the garage is from a 753 and has 2 bearings on the input shaft. Looking at the IPL on Parts tree for the 1257 transmission it only shows one. So I start looking in the Unidrive manual. The IPL there for the 5058 trans shows just one bearing. But the IPL for the 5053 transmission shows two. WTF? The part numbers for the 2 cases are different, and the part numbers for the two input shafts are different. Did you remove 2 bearings when you pulled it apart? Can you see polished marks on the shaft where it was running in bearings? One mark or two? I would think that 2 bearings on the shaft would be better than one. EDIT: Better pictures Edited December 15, 2011 by sorekiwi Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #27 Posted December 15, 2011 That top gear looks really good. Check the internal teeth (splines?) that it engages with as well. The reverse idler is a bit beat up. They usually are. I'd just dress it up with a grinder though, try to put a ^ shape on the end of the teeth to help it guide itself into mesh. Looking at your pics I guess I push my bearings in a little further, so they are almost flush with the outside of the case (take a look at how they are on your untouched 1054 box. Dont think it matters though as long as they are below the machined surface on the inside of the case - it looks like they are in your picture. Now the interesting part - your input shaft bearings. The 4 speed case I have in the garage is from a 753 and has 2 bearings on the input shaft. Looking at the IPL on Parts tree for the 1257 transmission it only shows one. So I start looking in the Unidrive manual. The IPL there for the 5058 trans shows just one bearing. But the IPL for the 5053 transmission shows two. WTF? The part numbers for the 2 cases are different, and the part numbers for the two input shafts are different. Did you remove 2 bearings when you pulled it apart? Can you see polished marks on the shaft where it was running in bearings? One mark or two? I would think that 2 bearings on the shaft would be better than one. you know i went round and round about the input shaft bearing thing, only had one originally and it was where i put the new one. since i need to get another axle seal im tempted to install another input bearing and let that end ride on two. before i polished the shaft you could definitely see that it only ever had one installed. the boss in the case should be able to take two. i think from one of the pics you can see how much room is in there. the internal splines on the top gear needed a little work but they were reasonably good, no where near as bad as the outside gears. the bearings could go in a little more, out of 3 transmissions i have here (the 1054, this one and an 8 speed) they are all in different positions and from most of the pics i seen on here, most are just under flush on the inside. heres another couple pics....... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #28 Posted December 15, 2011 I've learnt a bit tonight, I guess I've never compared the boxes side by side, and I guess I've always just ordered whatever bearings came out and never noticed that some had one bearing on the input shaft, and some had 2. For what its worth, the part of the case that contains the 2 bearings is 2.080" thick from the machined face on the inside of the case to the very outside of the case. I had always assumed that the 5053 and the 5058 were the same box, with the only difference being the differential and axle size. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #29 Posted December 15, 2011 I've learnt a bit tonight, I guess I've never compared the boxes side by side, and I guess I've always just ordered whatever bearings came out and never noticed that some had one bearing on the input shaft, and some had 2. For what its worth, the part of the case that contains the 2 bearings is 2.080" thick from the machined face on the inside of the case to the very outside of the case. I had always assumed that the 5053 and the 5058 were the same box, with the only difference being the differential and axle size. as far as learning something,that makes two of us...... i got to say this forum and all you guys on it are awesome. its great to be able to learn from some of you while travelling some new ground....... i always throw up as many pics as i can so maybe someone else that comes along can pick up something. these tractors are awesome machines and its fun to rebuild them and enjoy the learning experience and friendships that are made on here.... :thumbs: 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #30 Posted December 17, 2011 got another input shaft bearing today and installed it. positioned the two of them apart about 1/4 to 1/2 inch, one is about an 3/16 away from the seal and the other is just under flush with the inside machined area of the case. also got the case gasket and boot for the shifter, so i think im all set to get it finished now. so far this is what i have in it....... (motion industries) bearings. input 3/4 wh1508 b1212brg 2@5.60 (originally 1) brake 1 wh1530 b1612brg 1@6.42 closed 3/4 wh1529 m12121brg 2@6.83 closed 5/8 wh1531 m10121brg 1@6.33 closed 1 wh1532 m16121brg 1@6.40 axle 1 1/8 wh1526 b1816brg 2@7.39 oil seals input 3/4 wh1303 c/r7410 1@3.66 brake 1 wh1232 c/r9815 1@3.00 axle 1 1/8 wh1213 c/r11050 2@3.97 (toro dealer) case gasket wh3912 1@2.96 boot wh3577 1@4.10 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dclarke 4,032 #31 Posted December 17, 2011 Nice job Martin! :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,764 #32 Posted December 19, 2011 I don't know Martin, you may not have any problem, but I have always had those cap bearings flush with the outside of the case. The other bearings in far enough to have the seal flush with the outside. You could have the shaft that sits in those cap bearings bottom out when you put the 2 halves together. Check it out mate. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #33 Posted December 20, 2011 alright, i went out and checked the clearance of the shaft that has the two closed ends(cluster gear) to see how the clearances looked. i placed one 1/4 washer that was about a 1/16 thick on the end of the shaft and installed the other half of the box and looked at the gasket faces to see if they touched. almost. so with the 1/16 it was binding. right at that point i decided that what you guys were saying about having the closed bearings closer to the outside of the case had more merit than how the old ones were installed when i took it apart. the bearings look better flush from the outside without that step as well. went and looked at the two other transaxles i have, (1054 and the 8 speed) and noticed that they were not installed all the same. most of the 1054 were flush with the exception of one of the bigger ones(not sure if input or brake but it wasnt the smaller cluster gear ones that is closed on both sides). the 8 speed was all over the place with the smaller ones being the only ones flush. but the 8 speed is different in that it looks like it doesnt have a shaft that is closed on both ends.( the 8 speed is really irrelevent in this case anyway as we are only comparing apples to apples ( or 3 speeds to 3 speeds). so i drove the cluster gear shaft closed bearings in ( or toward the outside of the case) more to get them almost flush....so they looked better and had no chance of binding the shaft. moved the other closed ones the same to keep them looking similar.( although as the other ends of the bigger ones are open, i dont think its as critical as i cant see where it would bind anywhere). ok, so now that was sorted, time to get some gears in the case and make sure everything was working well. ive got to say this went together really easy, just followed the trans manual and was a piece of cake. detent assembly went in first time( used some magnetic screwdrivers/punch etc to help.....) rest of gears installed and put the case on to make sure that all gears were selectable and turned fine. everything good!!! heres a pic of the assembly just before putting the other half on. still need to order bolts for the rest of the tractor, so its gonna sit like this for a couple days until i button it up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,764 #34 Posted December 20, 2011 Martin, that looks very nice Mate. Looking forward to riding the picnic table again next year, if Scott brings it. Happy New Year. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #35 Posted December 22, 2011 thanks for that steve, here she is, all together.......... and you have a merry christmas and a happy new year also..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #36 Posted December 22, 2011 just thought id add another p/n the dog point set screws for the shifter are available through mcmaster carr 95289A347 but they come in a pack of 25 for $10.60. would be nicer if they were sold in a smaller qty but i figure ive used three already for what i have here, and toro want $4.25 for just one. i think id rather buy 25 of them and have them laying around, they look identical to the one i took out and im sure i will use them up eventually...........(maybe).... :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dclarke 4,032 #37 Posted December 22, 2011 Looking good Martin, I like how clean everything is. Nice job! :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #38 Posted December 22, 2011 You know Denny, funny you say that. It's always one thing I've noticed about anything you have done and posted about. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,764 #39 Posted December 22, 2011 just thought id add another p/n the dog point set screws for the shifter are available through mcmaster carr 95289A347 but they come in a pack of 25 for $10.60. would be nicer if they were sold in a smaller qty but i figure ive used three already for what i have here, and toro want $4.25 for just one. i think id rather buy 25 of them and have them laying around, they look identical to the one i took out and im sure i will use them up eventually...........(maybe).... Martin, I could really use about 5 of those set screws if you want to lose a few. Willing to buy them or trade next time I see you. I've seen Denny's shop...you could eat off the floor. You guys have a great Christmas and a Happy New Year as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ol550 830 #40 Posted December 22, 2011 just thought id add another p/n the dog point set screws for the shifter are available through mcmaster carr 95289A347 but they come in a pack of 25 for $10.60. would be nicer if they were sold in a smaller qty but i figure ive used three already for what i have here, and toro want $4.25 for just one. i think id rather buy 25 of them and have them laying around, they look identical to the one i took out and im sure i will use them up eventually...........(maybe).... Plus the ones from MCMaster are the right length. The last ones I got from toro were way to long and not the long dog point. Mike Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #41 Posted December 23, 2011 heres a pic of the mcmaster one installed. because ive used a thicker flange nut not as many threads stick out from the end of the nut..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites