Pre-1967 Steering Wheel Restoration

[MikesRJ 552]

I am going to start a topic here and ask for inputs from all users with specific knowledge or comments concerning the same. I will use the encompassing information in a presentation of the topic both here and in "other" publications. BuckRancher and I repaired our steering wheels, but we used two similar but different methods to accomplish it. There are certainly a number of ways you could go about it, but then that is the point of this post. To investigate the ideas of the members here, and see if there is a better way, or faster process, to go about it.

The RJ 58 I restored a few years ago presented may interesting problems to work out in order to finish a complete restoration of the machine. One of these problems was the steering wheel. The original steering wheel, in its "as found" condition, could not be used with the restored tractor due to several fairly major splits and cracks present in the rubber handle. The metal of the steering wheel was in very good condition, but the rubber had just seen better days.

Above is an image of the original wheel as it existed on the machine when it was brought home from TN. The rubber hand grip material at the intersection point between the spokes and the underlying steel rim was cracked on all three points around the wheel. There were also several splits in the area between these intersections.

Given damage of this sort, and knowing you are performing a 100% original restoration, my questions to you are this; 1) Do you replace the wheel outright, or 2) Repair the wheel? Choosing number 1 is the easy way out. The problems with choosing #1 are; a) Can you find a usable replacement?; How much time will you save you vs. fixing it?; and c) How much is it going to cost you?

Choosing #2 is almost certainly going to cost you less in the long run, but how would you go about it? Here's where I'll make this thread interesting. Now I will ask the members here the simple question: "How would YOU fix it?"

[fireman 1,021]

Mike,

If the wheel just has a few cracks, I would use a two-part epoxy and fill the gaps. Once it has cured, hand sand it down to match the contours then paint. If the wheel has major pieces missing and is real bad then I would try to find a replacement.

I did find a place in the midwest that restores these kind of steering wheels and contacted them about restoring mine. They actually have molds of the originals. They strip all the old material off then clean up the metal. The metal portion then goes in their molds and then pour in new material and let it cure. The problem is they don't have a mold small enough to fit ours. They primarily restore the larger John Deere, Farm-All, Massey etc. Unless there was huge demand, it isn't cost prohibitive for them to make a mold.

Here is link to their website:

http://minnkotarepair.com/steeringwheel.html

Here is another company that sells kits to restore old steering wheels:

http://www.eastwood.com/steering-wheel-restoration-steering-wheel-repair-tips-from-eastwood

Just my $.02,

Jeff

[AMC RULES 37,132]

What was the original hand grip material Mike, rubber or plastic? As found, was it loose on the metal rim, or still firmly attached, and just cracked in select places?

[MikesRJ 552]

Ok Jeff, Good info. Hold that thought for a bit as we'll get into that area in greater detail later.

Craig, the material is black rubber, and for arguments sake we'll say cracked in selected areas, parted slightly from shrinkage, but still firmly attached to the metal rim; as well as cracked at the spokes as shown above.

All, Keep in mind I'm trying to get your noodles working. Questions are good and desired, as the picture I presented above does not display all the things one must think about to answer the original question for yourself if you were presented with the problem.

Keep in mind the original question is, "How would YOU go about fixing these defects?".

[Rooster 191]

I would start by searching Red Square and mywheelhorse.com for a procedure....LOL

I have seen work done with the Eastwood kits on Plastic wheels and they come out great.

Have never seen a rubber wheel repaired in person?

[AMC RULES 37,132]

Yeah, I think if the material is soft rubber, that would be a unique challange to work with. Hard plastic, as Jeff said, is a pretty straight forward repair, hog out the cracks with a detail tool(Dremel), I then would use PC-7(two part epoxy) to build up/fill the voids. Finish sand and paint. Pretty easy repair. That's probably what I'd try first.

[Kelly 1,029]

Are you sure they are rubber? all of mine look and feel like plastics of the day, you know 50+ years ago, mine are very hard, I know rubber gets hard over time, but this is VERY hard every one, never found one yet any brand machine that was soft, with the RJ style wheel, just asking?

[Trouty56 567]

What about the stuff they dip tools in??? I've thought of trying that for other things like hydro handles.

[71_Bronco 1,072]

What about the stuff they dip tools in??? I've thought of trying that for other things like hydro handles.

I had a thought at one time as to doing this. Stripping it down to metal, and then slowly rotating the outer wheel in a "trough" (for lack of a better word) of the rubber stuff. Would have to do it a few times to give the correct thickness, but would make a nice seamless coating.

Only other issue is how you would get the finger-grooves on the bottom

[MikesRJ 552]

Are you sure they are rubber? all of mine look and feel like plastics of the day, you know 50+ years ago, mine are very hard, I know rubber gets hard over time, but this is VERY hard every one, never found one yet any brand machine that was soft, with the RJ style wheel, just asking?

Quite sure, thanks for your comments.

Yeah, I think if the material is soft rubber, that would be a unique challange to work with. Hard plastic, as Jeff said, is a pretty straight forward repair, hog out the cracks with a detail tool(Dremel), I then would use PC-7(two part epoxy) to build up/fill the voids. Finish sand and paint. Pretty easy repair. That's probably what I'd try first.

You're on the right track. Good noodle.

[MikesRJ 552]

What about the stuff they dip tools in??? I've thought of trying that for other things like hydro handles.

Probably not a good idea, and we'll get to the reason why in a bit.

[AMC RULES 37,132]

From my other forum comes this post I submitted last year. Similar in nature, but with it's own unique issues to address. Might provide some food for thought here as well.

http://theamcforum.com/forum/doing-the-humpster-dash_topic20312.html

[buckrancher 2,679]

some day when I have the time and nothing else to do (ya right) I was going to make a mold to recast the early RJ / 701 style steering wheels with casting resin

So don't give up on that being a option yet Jeff (Fireman) and Mike you are welcome to use any pictures from my steering wheel repair/rebuld in this topic

Brian

[MikesRJ 552]

Thanks Brian.

[Martin 2,132]

mike, im interested in some more info on this topic and the process used to repair. checked out the pics on your site in brians stainless rebuild, just wondering if you had anything to add to help a steering wheel repair newbie.....