nyquil junkie 225 #1 Posted November 30, 2011 Oh I'm starting to regret this little project. When I went to get this 885, it took some fiddling to get it to start but, it did, and it ran well enough to drive it around and it idled ok. So since it is/was a PITA to get running, I removed the carb, stripped it down, cleaned it thoroughly. It was pretty clean to begin with but the gaskets were shot, so it got a new kit, everything is new but the needles. (they are in good condition). Float is set perfectly. Needles set to the normal starting point, 2 turns and 1-1/2 turns. I put on a new fuel filter, flushed the tank, tested the pump (it squirts gas real good) and made sure it was flowing freely with the bowl off while cranking. It wouldnt start. So I put a new set of points on, an new condenser, everything set just like the engine manual tells ya to. Ok now, it will start fairly easy, but will only idle. and to do that I have to hold the throttle closed, or the governor pops it open a bit and it dies. All things being equal, it should start and run ok of not at least run poorly. No dice, the best I can get is a slow idle, if I hold the throttle closed. Something is not right here. I tinkered with this all day, took it apart a few times and reassembled it. A new engine is looking more and more inviting. I'm getting old and losing my patience for this stuff. BUT, I'm this deep into it and I wont need the tractor until spring so..... Got any ideas what's wrong? Half choke, hold the throttle closed, hit the button and it starts. it sits there and slowly putters away. Open the choke all the way and it still is idling fine. Let go of the throttle on the carb and as it starts to die the governor opens it (just like it should) a little and it quits running. My brother says it's starving for gas. I can't see how, it's flowing in all the right places and it's clean inside. Hey at least I got it to start easy. If I cant make it work right by April or so, There will be one more engine for sale on craigslist. :confusion-helpsos: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,131 #2 Posted November 30, 2011 Point gap set to .020" ? Make sure the wire to the points and the condenser lead are both on the negative terminal of the ignition coil and the power wire from the ignition switch is connected to the positive post. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nyquil junkie 225 #3 Posted December 1, 2011 There is no ignition switch.... the dude has an on/off pull switch beside a starter button. If the absolute correct setting for the pints will make it do what it's doing, I'll check it with a gauge. I used a matchbook cover which is all I've ever used setting mower engine points, and it's always worked fine. But, I'll go do it right. lol. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,131 #4 Posted December 1, 2011 getting the points as close to .020 as possible will help to get the correct timing. since numerous things have been done since it was last running, you might have more than one issue to resolve before its running well. when you have it idling, can you get any reaction by adjusting the low speed needle? if it was me i would sort the point gap, check the governor setting, and pull the high speed needle and run some fine tip files through all holes in the needle, blow compressed air through and check and make sure that you have no restrictions in there as well. the lower holes in the high speed needle pull fuel from the bowl at idle and above. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coldone 35 #5 Posted December 1, 2011 The initial setting for the carb is a starting point, usually. Try adjusting the needles to see what you get. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nyquil junkie 225 #6 Posted December 1, 2011 I didnt check where the condenser wire was when I replaced it. The dude had the old lead on the wrong side, I just put the new one in the same place. Now I feel stupid. My matchbook cover gapper was off a wee bit but its now set to exactly .020 with a proper feeler gauge. And it runs like a new one. Ok a properly tuned up old one. Easy start, smooth at a high rev. Sweeet. NOW.... why does my starter belt keep jumping off the pullys after 30 seconds of running?? I think its to fat. Looks like it should be a really skinny belt. Thanks for the input :bow-blue: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nyquil junkie 225 #7 Posted December 1, 2011 The initial setting for the carb is a starting point, usually. Try adjusting the needles to see what you get. yeah once it was running they needed a little tweaking to get it idling and revving smooth. The nut on the bottom of the bowl drips.... it has a new ring gasket on there but it still has a slow drip. I'll seal it with a tiny bit of gasket goo. Tomorrow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,131 #8 Posted December 1, 2011 NOW.... why does my starter belt keep jumping off the pullys after 30 seconds of running?? I think its to fat. Looks like it should be a really skinny belt. The correct belt should only be 3/8" wide. You might also want to hold the float bowl in front of a light. There could be a pinhole that's causing the gas drip. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nyquil junkie 225 #9 Posted December 1, 2011 Good idea. Thanks! Yeah this belt is way fatter than 3/8. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coldone 35 #10 Posted December 2, 2011 And it runs like a new one. Ok a properly tuned up old one. Easy start, smooth at a high rev. Sweeet. :eusa-think: :eusa-think: :eusa-think: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
