sorekiwi 761 #26 Posted February 26, 2012 Gotta love how clean that ATF keeps the inside of the gearbox. I've never been inside a GT14 transmission. Interesting that they use a needle bearing on the side of the diff housing. The 1276 box I have opened up at the moment has the normal ball bearing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #27 Posted February 26, 2012 is the axle a diffferent size where it goes through the bearing? the id of the needle bearing looks alot bigger than that of the roller. do the hydro center sections have something to do with the id? i spy something with the center in this pic that might have something to do with the difference... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #28 Posted February 26, 2012 Looking at the IPL for the GT14 transmission, the part #'s are different for the end caps of the 10 pinion diff (when compared to the numbers for a 5060 transmission). I dont have a 10 pinion diff available to look at, but from hazy, alcohol affected memory the end caps on the GT diff pictured do look larger than what I am used to seeing. Now what I am wondering is if the needle roller bearing pictured is 2 1/2" OD and 1/2" wide, so it would fit in a "normal" case. Then a hardened sleeve could be pressed onto a "normal" diff, and this used to replace they now NLA ball bearing in a "normal" box? Mark, do you think you could take some measurements of that bearing each side of the diff? or even the Torrington part # if you can see it? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,570 #29 Posted February 26, 2012 It is definitely a big bearing - around 2.5" and yes a needle bearing. I guess from early trials they had worked out there is a massive amount of torque and potential for wear. My tyres are scrubbed down to only 1/4" of tread through skidding ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,741 #30 Posted February 26, 2012 Looks like you have been busy with your GT-14. I like seeing the pictures of your work. Keep up the good work! I have purchased a 3 pt hitch (mine was missing) from another RS member, and am eager to receive it and start playing with mine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #31 Posted February 26, 2012 Looking at the IPL for the GT14 transmission, the part #'s are different for the end caps of the 10 pinion diff (when compared to the numbers for a 5060 transmission). I dont have a 10 pinion diff available to look at, but from hazy, alcohol affected memory the end caps on the GT diff pictured do look larger than what I am used to seeing. Now what I am wondering is if the needle roller bearing pictured is 2 1/2" OD and 1/2" wide, so it would fit in a "normal" case. Then a hardened sleeve could be pressed onto a "normal" diff, and this used to replace they now NLA ball bearing in a "normal" box? Mark, do you think you could take some measurements of that bearing each side of the diff? or even the Torrington part # if you can see it? mike not sure if this is relevant info or not regarding your question...... http://whtractor.15....ic=15171&st=100 scroll down a little about 5th post down the 8048 (same as bearing in ipl on the gt14) is referred to as a b-348 torrington. it shows up at motion industries search b-348 http://www.motionindustries.com/motion3/jsp/mii/parametricSearchSecondaryMI.jsp?AM_ACTION=ParametricSearchSecondaryAM&LANGUAGE=0&AM_FIRST=Y&LINE_NO=1&SR_LINE_NO=0&SEARCH_DESC=00090649&SEARCH_FIELD=M&MFR_PART_NO=B+348++BRG&BUS_ACTION=details&display_option=N&CAT_GRP_CD=01010700&var1=1&var2=00090649&KeepThis=true& Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #32 Posted February 26, 2012 mike not sure if this is relevant info or not regarding your question...... Thanks for that Martin. Sorry Mark we are hijacking your thread a bit here. But the bearing search may be of use to you if you decide you need to replace that big one. If we go much further with this I will start a new thread. I got to that same bearing number at Motion Industries last night (by a different path!) and $20 from them is a whole lot nicer than the $175 listed for the Toro part from Partstree. Now to find a ready made inner race to step up the journal on the sides of the diff from 1 1/2" to 2 1/8" I just uploaded a Service Bulletin to the "Files" area about some alternate axle bearings used during a shortage of the 1533 bearing. I wonder if this is the same bearing? http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/1841-wh61-90-369-inner-axle-bearing-1984-gt-series-c-series1pdf/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,570 #33 Posted February 26, 2012 got the hubs all ready for cleaning... it appears someone has had a good go at removing them ! just look at those hammer marks.... some people have no idea Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,570 #34 Posted February 26, 2012 and here's the lazy way of removing them ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #35 Posted March 3, 2012 That's not being lazy Mark, it's just doing it the easy way Looks like your having fun with the trans, not sure I fancy opening one up!! Question for you old chap... What's in the bit that's arrowed? Are there bearings of sorts in there? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,741 #36 Posted March 3, 2012 Click on the arrow...that will start a video. Cherrio Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,570 #37 Posted March 4, 2012 Ian, the arrow points to the top link pin, a 2.5" pin for the cat 0 top link. Check the other pics.... Mark Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,570 #38 Posted March 5, 2012 well the bearings and seals came... as well as two shiny new no.9 woodruff keys ! you can see the parking brake pawl in situ in the bottom right corner a bit of jiggery pokey and voila ! Painted and ready to fit next weekend time permitting.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #39 Posted March 5, 2012 Ian, the arrow points to the top link pin, a 2.5" pin for the cat 0 top link. Check the other pics.... Mark Thanks Mark, maybe I didn't put the arrow in quite the right place.. Just in front of the top link pin is a tube that part of the 3 point runs through.. You know, the arms that lift the drop links are connected through that tube.. Hope that's explained my question a bit better Your not hanging about getting the trans sorted :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,570 #40 Posted March 5, 2012 ....or maybe I was being dumb!!! theres a bar through the middle, fairly sure its plain steel on steel. Unless anyone says otherwise? I'll have a look at removing the bar = the end caps might come off, who knows it might be bronze - haven't seen any grease nipples...might be a good excuse for the tap to come out... mark oh, and horse has to be running completely for the first show of the year in may, so I'm cracking on :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #41 Posted March 5, 2012 Thanks Mark, it will be interesting to know what's hiding in there.. I'm thinking about the 3 point on my project if you hadn't guessed :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheeledhorseman 574 #42 Posted March 5, 2012 Mark, I think you may be being a little optimistic re the top shaft of the three point and 'bearings'. The hitch assemble on a 'D' is rather different in that it stands alone from the transmission and is mounted on the chassis/frame but the 'bearing' blocks that support it are just steel on steel with no provision for greasing. Andy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheeledhorseman 574 #43 Posted March 5, 2012 Just noticed in the pic - I think those are the same bearing blocks as used on the 'D'. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,570 #44 Posted March 5, 2012 Andy, I wasn't been optimistic, theres not a lot of bronze on a horse ! mine is a separate unit too, it bolts onto the top of the transmission and two flat bars extend right through to the top. The "bearings" look like two blocks of steel - hence the thought they might drill and tap to get grease in I think you might be right! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wh1257 226 #45 Posted March 5, 2012 nice progress get you more pics of the 3 pt hitch Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #46 Posted March 6, 2012 Thanks Guy's, steel on steel was the answer I was looking for.. It makes life easier than sourcing strong enough bearing, it makes life cheaper as I can spin some bearing up on the lathe, It also is "in keeping" with how WH do things :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,570 #47 Posted March 6, 2012 Ian, now I look... the big tube is just a big tube... the lift mechanism uses it as an end stop! The lift arms bolt behind it as in the pic below and are just plain steel, I will probably add grease nipples. hope this helps Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheeledhorseman 574 #48 Posted March 6, 2012 I'd think twice before drilling one of these blocks to take a grease nipple (zerk) as they're weak enough already! This is what I found when dismantling the 3-point on the 'D'. This one had broken in half and been welded up, the top weld had subsequently cracked again. The other block had also cracked and been welded up, though this time cracking though one the threaded mounting holes. The WH hitch design seems to be Cat 0 (just) and not up to major long term use with heavier implements. I'm going to have to make two new ones, probably from plain rectangular blocks of steel. Fortunately I can swap things around for now as there are a perfect pair of these on the belly lift, which will be much easier to dismantle for replacement later on in the project compared with the 3-point assembly. Andy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #49 Posted March 7, 2012 Ahhh.. Now I see.. Thanks Mark.. From the pic I swiped to stick the blue arrow on it looked like the lift arm bit's went through that big tube!! "Ouch" at those bearing Andy!! Easy enough to spin some new ones up out blocks of steel.. You can make them nice and strong If you need any steel to make them from let me know. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,570 #50 Posted March 7, 2012 I wonder why they were made so small - it's not like there is a lack of space... :scared-notify: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
