Need Help 5073 transmission

[JC 1965 1,530]

Got a free 5073 trans, decided to take it apart, never had a tranny apart before. Everything seams to be in very good condition to my surprise. I took out every part and cleaned everything. Then was tacking the differential apart and reached around to get a tool and the differential feel and the parts went everywhere. i got all the parts cleaned and back in the differential, when i put the spring in ( part # 7235 ) and the right and left end caps back in place, it is almost impossible to turn the axles by hand. Is this normal? I didn't try to turn them by hand before i opened it up. also should i put a light coat of grease or some other lubricant on the pinions and gears? Does anyone have a link where i can down load a manual for this trans? Hope this makes sense, any help very much appreciated. THANKS!! :dunno:

[can whlvr 993]

im no expert but have had them apart before,i could move mine by hand,but that could be a differnt tranny,as far as grease im sure that the oil gets in there and the grease woulnt really be doing any thing

[TT-(Moderator) 1,145]

Are you trying to turn the axles while holding the ring gear? If you are, that's exactly the way the 10 pinion Transpower differential should be - everything should turn together. (during bench testing)

It wouldn't hurt to oil things up a bit when assembling - especially where the axles pass through the differential caps.

[JC 1965 1,530]

Are you trying to turn the axles while holding the ring gear? If you are, that's exactly the way the 10 pinion Transpower differential should be - everything should turn together. (during bench testing)

It wouldn't hurt to oil things up a bit when assembling - especially where the axles pass through the differential caps.

No Terry, I wasn't holding the ring gear with one hand. I just had one axle in each hand and tried to turn them, of course I turned them in the same direction. They would turn but very hard. I'm not sure what you mean by ( everything should turn together). Are you saying , if I hold the ring gear with one hand the the pinions and side gears inside the differential should not turn? :dunno:

[Rollerman 290]

The spring inside the differential keeps pressure on the pinion gears makeing the diff act like a possi.

Thats unique to the 10 pinions...so if you are trying to counter rotate the axles, or hold one axle or the ring gear while turning the other....it's not easy.

[JC 1965 1,530]

The spring inside the differential keeps pressure on the pinion gears makeing the diff act like a possi.

Thats unique to the 10 pinions...so if you are trying to counter rotate the axles, or hold one axle or the ring gear while turning the other....it's not easy.

Thanks Stephen, I just went down to my workshop and held the ring gear with one hand and turned the axle with the other hand. It would turn but it sure was hard . I noticed that when I turned the axle the other axle turned in the opposite direction. So, does it sound like everything is working right? I tried to find a link for a manual I could download, but I didn't find one.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,145]

It's still technically a differential, but it does use a circular spring to attempt to "lock" the pinion gears. The holding of the pinions by this spring forces power to be applied to both axles when traveling straight, yet allows the inside wheel to slow down when making turns.

If you hold the ring gear and turn one axle, the opposite axle has no choice but to turn the other direction - because of the counter-rotating action of the pinion gears. If you install the differential assembly into the cases and turn one axle (gearbox in neutral), the other axle should spin the same direction - because the spring ring keeps the pinions from turning within the differential halves and the entire differential assembly rotates as one unit.

Yours sounds like it's working correctly. Did you happen to install new lock nuts on the through-bolts ~ or at least apply thread locker?

[JC 1965 1,530]

It's still technically a differential, but it does use a circular spring to attempt to "lock" the pinion gears. The holding of the pinions by this spring forces power to be applied to both axles when traveling straight, yet allows the inside wheel to slow down when making turns.

If you hold the ring gear and turn one axle, the opposite axle has no choice but to turn the other direction - because of the counter-rotating action of the pinion gears. If you install the differential assembly into the cases and turn one axle (gearbox in neutral), the other axle should spin the same direction - because the spring ring keeps the pinions from turning within the differential halves and the entire differential assembly rotates as one unit.

Yours sounds like it's working correctly. Did you happen to install new lock nuts on the through-bolts ~ or at least apply thread locker?

Terry, Thanks so much for taking the time to explain how this thing works. I have been wanting to open up a trans for some time and when this one came along i new it was time. I had nothing to loose and lots to learn and at the very least if the trans was scrap, I could salvage some good parts for future use in another trans. AND, yes I did install new nylock nuts on the through bolts. The axle seals were leaking when I got the trans, that's why the po didn't want it. I will have to replace them. the other seals and bearings seem to be in good condition. Should I replace them also? Thanks so much for your help, people like you are what makes RED SQUARE special. :dunno:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,145]

I would definitely replace all four seals and (at least) the outer axle (needle) bearings.

If all of the other bearings look/feel good, they would probably be OK. But...... if they are at all questionable and you have the funds, now is the perfect time to replace them & be done with it. :dunno:

[JC 1965 1,530]

Thanks Terry, I'm probably getting on your last nerve, but i have to ask this because I've never done it before. Do i need special tools to replace the seals and bearings? :dunno:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,145]

Nahhhh........ it's all good. My last nerve vacated as soon as my son was old enough to get in trouble.

Bearings, bushings, and seals should technically be installed with the appropriate drivers, but most of us don't possess each and every one we'd need for all of the different sizes and variations. Pieces of tubing/pipe, sockets, round bar stock, and/or anything else you can find in the correct shape & size are good substitutes - as long as you take your time and are careful.

Here's what I can think of:

-Needle bearings can also be pulled into place using a piece of threaded rod. The procedure has been photographically documented in this topic: viewtopic.php?f=23&t=28309

-Closed-end needle bearings must be pressed or driven into place. If you have to drive them into place, start them squarely in the hole and try as hard as you can to tap them just enough to make them move. ( resist the temptation to seat them with one blow from a 4 lb. mini-sledge! ) Excessive force can distort the bearing and/or knock the needles loose - or completely out of the bearing.

-When installing lip-type oil/grease seals fitted with a garter spring, it is highly advisable to pack some grease around the back of the seal lip / spring. This will ensure that the spring stays put when driving the seal into place.

[JC 1965 1,530]

Thanks Terry, That's really good info. Most of the time I can figure out how to do something just by reading all the posts on here. However this was a larger project than I'm use to. You probably won't believe this, but I have learned a lot from this trans. I have put it together and taken it apart 2 times. Might sound dumb but now I know where everything goes. The pictures of the threaded rod bearing puller will come in very handy. Many thanks again for your help, I'll let you know how it turns out. Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours!! ( and to all RS members )