Martin 2,132 #1 Posted November 16, 2011 been working on a k321 for a new project. wanted to go 100% powdercoat on this engine instead of the valspar resto cans so i felt better if it was totally stripped down first before painting. it had been rebuilt some time earlier with .010 bore/piston and looks like it was gone through from top to bottom. the guy i got it from said it ran fine but it wasnt running when i got it ( seems to be the way i like to get them). anyway pulled it down bore was scored, but cleaned up well with a gentle hone, all clearances were on the tight side so the little i took out the bore still left piston/bore clearance within spec and ring gaps only changed slightly.. cleaned up everything including the block and today threw some powder at it. really happy with the result. heres some pics..... still have the tins and some small stuff to do, but they can wait until the internals are back together. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1maidenfan 202 #2 Posted November 16, 2011 :wh: Are you doing that at your shop or having it done? Looks great Would be interested in applying that to my tractor. Info please. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,145 #3 Posted November 16, 2011 Looks great! Did that block have the cam cover-mounted dipstick? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #4 Posted November 17, 2011 Are you doing that at your shop or having it done? Looks great Would be interested in applying that to my tractor. Info please. my employer is a powder coater (amongst other metal finishing- http://www.kvfquad.com) so its something im around daily. boss is ok with personal work as long as it doesnt get out of hand. i wish i had more time to do personal stuff but they keep me busy and im not real keen on spending anymore time than i already do at work. so when i get the bug, i manage to squeeze some stuff in. this is the first time ive done a engine block. i was concerned about doing it as an assembly because of seals bearings and plastic governor gears surviving 400 degrees. it was totally disassembled (EVERYTHING). which gives me a chance to put it back together right, checking clearances along the way, as everything i have checked with it together was way too close for me. one thing with powder is you really have to mask off areas you dont want painted with care. spend extra time on this. paint is very hard to remove and you dont need to be removing by mechanical means, ie grinding on machined surfaces. i dont worry about threads too much as i chase all of them afterwards anyway. all masking we do at work is usually heat tape or by plugging with heat resistant plugs. i used powder on most of my last tractor (a 1054.....viewtopic.php?f=70&t=27838&hilit=1054+rebuild) the only things that were wet coat were the engine block, fuel tank and unidrive. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #5 Posted November 17, 2011 Looks great! Did that block have the cam cover-mounted dipstick? thanks terry, yes its got the cam cover dipstick. its actually a cub k321(dont tell anyone), but ive sort of wheelhorsed it with a c series pan and drilled the pto side of the block for belt guard fixing etc. its got the 1 inch shaft so ill need to source a pulley, not a big deal, and also going to run all the wheelhorse starter gen stuff on it, tins as well. did any wh kohlers come with the cam cover dipstick? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,145 #6 Posted November 17, 2011 did any wh kohlers come with the cam cover dipstick? None that I know of ~ which is naturally why I asked. :dunno: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #7 Posted November 17, 2011 did any wh kohlers come with the cam cover dipstick? None that I know of ~ which is naturally why I asked. i was thinking of drilling and tapping the block and using a wh one, but i thought it looked better without and its easier to use the cam dipstick. shouldnt be too hard to check the oil as all the tractors i have now you almost have to lift the hood anyway to pull the stick out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,145 #8 Posted November 17, 2011 As long as it's not going in a C series with the Nelson muffler behind the grille, I see it being quite convenient. The K-321 "basic" in my trike actually has a pan rail-mounted / screw-in dipstick at the "front" of the engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #9 Posted November 17, 2011 wont be going into a c series........ chased all the threads and cleaned up some machined areas i was a bit sloppy on the masking, installed crank bearings, mounted it on the stand and started to work on the crank end play. really helps by installing some cut off bolts in two of the threads to locate the spacer gaskets. ran out of time tonight to get it right. i like to do the end play with out the cam installed, as your sort of in and out with the crank. once i get the play right, i will get the governor gear, cam and lifters in before installing the crank and bearing plate. those balance gears wont be going back in either........ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #10 Posted November 18, 2011 update. got a bit further tonight. governor, cam and lifters, valves, crank, rod and piston all in. turns over sweet. cam end play is at .006.(.005-.010 spec) crank end play about .007 (.003/.020 spec). feels nice. valves lapped in very easy, probably didnt even need to touch them but wanted to make sure they had good seal. heres how it sits now...... and heres the only before pics i have, was a complete engine, just forgot about taking pics before pulling it down.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #11 Posted November 27, 2011 Got a little more done yesterday. Breather and cam dipstick cover on. Oil pan on. Painted the dipstick a silver color but might redo it red. Was undecided about bolt finish, in the end went for some simple zinc hex flange bolts with external lock washers under the heads. Will be using flange nuts with screw in studs for the cylinder head though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #12 Posted November 27, 2011 just thought this was worth a mention. i always make sure that the gasket surfaces on parts are as flat as possible before assembling parts. this isn't hard to check. take the cam cover for example. its a light cast alloy or similar 'not real strong' casting that with over tightening will warp and therefore make it hard to seal. this can be fixed within reason by sanding the gasket face on a nice flat surface with some 100-220 type paper. the first pic shows just a few light rubs on a flat surface, the high spots showing up as shiny. after some time on the flat surface with some 100 grit, the gasket sealing surface is now flat. at least now the gasket surface has a chance of sealing....... speaking of sealing, kohler gasket set for the k241- k341. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,132 #13 Posted December 1, 2011 painted a few more parts. i had a k301 with a later starter setup and decided to use the tins from that for this engine. its got a later c series oil pan already so i thought id keep it around the same time frame. it was a cub engine originally and is going to be used for a special project (thats still going around in my head at the moment). will be used with an 8 speed i recently picked up as well. anyway heres a pic of the tins..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
